20 Most Recent Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 DI XR for Canon Questions & Answers

hi, clean the camera contacts also , change the firm ware of the lens , hope this helps

It is dealing with the films. when closing the lens in the fabric, the electrical film changed its position to an unwanted situation. This makes noise sometimes. It is not important for functinality of the lens. But it only gives you an unwanted noise. There is nothing to do because film dries as the times passes. It needs to be changed but is not cheap. So it is better to go on to use it.

Many zoom lenses of this length, and even shorter have the problem whereby the lens either extends or retracts under its own weight depending on whether the camera is pointing up or down. I had a Canon 28-105mm lens with this problem. More expensive lenses have zoom locks to prevent this from happening. $225 sound like a good price to me!

Gently tap the lens with a stick and see if the dirt will fall to the side. It may of course migrate back, but as long as it doesn't stick to the lens, it will be out of the way for most pictures when the aperture closes. If it is stuck to the lens, have it professionally cleaned, OR take consulation in the fact that closer dirt is to the "optical center" of a lens, the less effect it has on normal pictures- pictures of bright objects are different though

not worth the effort - these are very complicated internal workings and even if you managed to disassemble the glass it would be difficult to know what is damaged without a 1:1 drawing of the internals of that specific piece of glass - plus you do not have a clean room - not trying to comment on your housekeeping but a dedicated clean room with a laminar flow work bench to keep out the FM you would add just by opening up said glass in a normal room - Pay the money if you love the glass - if not they make interesting and fun paperweights...

With an SLR you only get true macro focussing on a lens that has proper macro focussing abilities. Unfortunately in the photogaraphy world, there are a huge number of lenses which claim to have macro ability but are stretching the term far too much.

Strictly speaking, macro means that the lens is capable of producing images on the sensor which are the same size as the actual subject or even bigger, at life size this is described as 1:1 macro. Your Tamron lens is only capable of a maximum 1:3.7 "macro", and that's only at the 200mm zoom setting with the subject no closer than 45cm from the lens. By SLR zoom lens standards, that's actually pretty good, but if you want to go closer and get greater magnification you need to either use a supplementary close-up filter lens or for better optical quality use a set of extension rings. The trade off with close up filter lenses is poor image quality and usually plenty of colour fringing and with extension rings is that if you're using a 2x magnification at 200mm, your f5-ish maximum aperture at 200mm becomes a very dark f10.

The only way to get good macro results is to either use a proper (=expensive) macro lens and excellent lighting, or use extension rings plus a good ring flash unit. However you can improve your macro by investing in a more capable zoom lens with a closer minimum focus distance and a better aperture at the telephoto end of the range. This can be expensive, or you can pick up some very cheap 35mm film SLR lenses. Using an adapter will never allow you to achieve infinity focus on a Canon digital SLR but you can get a close focussing 200mm f3.8 very cheaply. The crop factor of your smaller sensor means it will have the same angle of view as a 310mm lens but the aperture will remain at f3.8. As Canon digital SLR's have the deepest body register (lens to sensor distance) of the current systems then you'll also have the effect of using it on an extension ring. The downside is that you'll have to use the lens in a totally manual mode as no information will be communicated to your camera body. By mounting the lens back to front using a reversing ring you can achieve some really stunning macro magnifications but then you need a tripod, powerful flash and absolutely no wind... There was also a Makinon 80-200mm zoom which sells for next to nothing on auction websites, but it had a macro collar which allowed it to achieve around half size macro (1:2).

Alternatively, if the Fuji still works and does the job just keep it in your camera bag ready for those types of shots. overall, that seems the easiest and best solution unless you really want to get heavily into macro shooting.

I hope that I've helped you, please ask more if there's anything unclear. I've tried to keep a very complicated subject as simple as possible. Please also take a moment to rate my answer.

In low light situations, connect a speedlite flash to your body (e.g. 430EXII or 580EXII). These flashes emit a AF assist beam to assist focussing in low light situations.