20 Most Recent Mitsubishi WS-48513 48" Rear Projection Television Questions & Answers

Maybe convergence problem.

Hello, i will list the criteria required to service TV and projector TV`s first and foremost you require a good understanding of how TV`s work and the ability of reading schematic diagrams, then you require a knowledge of how printed circuit boards are patterned so you can navigate around them to locate possible trouble spots.
then you require
1 multi meter of good quality
1 oscilloscope 20 MHz or better
1 shop service manual pertinent to your type and model of unit you wish to repair
this is a minimum requirement of test equipment you can have

you also kneed a location or locations to obtain the replacement parts you may require to complete the service task.
Now if you have all the above criteria in place then you have some hope to service your unit

a flashing red indicator on your TV usually refers to an internal circuit failure, most modern TV`s have circuits incorporated in the circuit design to protect good working components not involved in the fault from further damage so the set will not power up and an indicator light will start flashing, trouble spots can be anything like power supply under voltage, over voltage over current, no vertical deflection, excessive high voltage, XRAY, convergence failure,, EXT EXT,EXT,
Warning rear projection televisions can harbor in excess of 30,000 ,yes that is thousand Volts

There are and never will be user serviceable components inside LOL

Now if you are ready and require further assistance you may contact me and i will step you through the diagnostic procedures Good luck

About $300-400,if still great tv picture working conditions and fair cosmetics contion too.These DLP tvs are big bulky and heavy.Alway have the same convergence problems electronic board dying many times over over again in the tv life time.Able get that priced or close to that priced,sell it quick before the buyer change it mind.

You should be able to get 1080i with the Input/DVI port or the component video in ports of the TV. I believe the easiest option will be to set the XBox A/V switch to HDTV and use a component video cable (red, green, blue) from the XBox component out to the TV Component In. (with the audio out going to your TV or speaker system). Turn on the X-box and the My Xbox > System Settings. Then Console Settings > Display and chose the 1080i.

Set the TV Net Command (remote) and the Device settings for the input jack in use (component 1/2). Adjust the A/V menu for the Display before playing long.

Wen you change inputs, you will see a status screen for the settings for the TV input.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

What has happened to your tv:
What has normally happened is that the convergence output driver ic's either one or both of them has shorted. Causing your picture to be un-converged, The Symptom of your failure can take on many different looks, so one explanation of what the failure looks like will not be adequate. It will be basically one or more (red,Green,Blue) crt's are not aligned correctly, and colored shifted, and distorted picture of some kind will be seen. Auto focus will not fixit and may even make it worse. When these ic's short, they can cause one or more pico fuse to blow. Allot of people ignore this part of the repair and get themselves into trouble. Please listen to my warning, and make sure you check these fuses!
About the boards:
The two boards we will be working with are the "D" and "G" boards. They will have a big "D" or "G" stamped into them. On most models the "D" board will be to the center left of you when looking from the back. The "G" board will usually be to the left of the "D" board and standing vertically. When removing the board make a mental note of where all the plugs go. The Flyback (the big gray transformer near the back) has a fat red wire coming out of it. To remove this wire push down and twist on the distribution block side. Don't try to remove it from the flyback side, you can damage the flyback. There is a focus wire going upto the focus block as well, pull the wire straight out of the focus block side. But if you have enough room to work behind your television you can leave the red and focus wires in the tv, just flip the board over at the television after removal.
The Parts:
The parts you will need are two ic's that are referred to as STK ic's. This is in reference to the first three letters of the part number. You will also need some pico fuses. The pico fuses are little yellow fuses that look like resistors. When they blow, they will show no physical sign of failure. The amperage rating will be printed on the fuse. For example a 5 amp fuse will have the number 5000 on it. A 3.15 amp fuse will have the number 3150 on it. You will need to use an ohm meter to test these fuses. If your set uses either STK392-110, or STK392-120, you should replace them with a higher wattage part; either the STK392-150 or STK392-180. Since this is a very prolific problem, there are allot of companies that make cheap bad ic's that can be purchased usually for around $6.00 - These replacement ic's are BAD, they will FAIL on you again. I have had allot of experience with this problem, please listen to my warning! Only get a set that is from a reputable manufacturer. If your ic part number is something other than the ones I mentioned above, ONLY use the EXACT same part number for replacement. The part number is boldly printed on the part. The Location of the parts;
The stk ic's are on the "D" board, attached to large heat sinks, When looking from the back you can see the heat sinks but the part's themselves will be pointing away from you and hard to see without removing the board, or using a mirror to look at the part numbers. The fuses are generally located under the fins of the heat sinks. There are several of them and vary by model. On the "G" board there will be two yellow pico fuses near the connector going to "D" board. These fuses provide power to the stk ic's you must check these as well.
The Repair:
When replacing the STKs make sure you use heat sink compound on the back of the ic's before installing them. Also as a rule of thumb, screw or clamp the ic's down to their heat sinks before you solder the pins. Replace any blown pico fuses and re- install your boards. When you turn your set on it may still be out of convergence due to many factors. Try pressing the auto focus button on front of your set. If this does not work, you will need to do a convergence. Please see my article "Sony Convergence Procedure" to complete this part.
Possible Problems after the repair;
Many things can happen during your repair, the most common problem and one that even I - an experienced tech still have problems with are not plugging in all the wires. This will cause various strange problems. So if the set acts differently than It did before. First suspect that you have missed a wire. Don't assume that you got all the wires in. it is extremely easy to miss one. I have had people and techs tell me "I am sure I plugged in all the wires" but when I investigate a little further we find that wire that was hidden behind something else and once we plug it, all will be well. Another issue you need to be aware of is if you are in convergence mode and you cannot move one of the colors in either vertical or horizontal directions. Re-check you pico fuses and solder. 99% of these problems are due to either shorted pins or a missed pico fuse.

tv is not 1080p, it will do 1080i through component. the "switch" is automatic when you plug something in that it will support.

the back of the tv has labels next to the inputs that will tell you which resolutions the various inputs will support.

tv is in standby mode. needs to be diagnosed by a tech

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Mitsubishi-WS-48513-TVs-manual/id/276dj885/t/2/
user manual above, service manual below. use the SM, to troubleshoot and repair your set.
http://www.service-manual.eu/model.php?id=2782

Replace both of your STK ICs big black ics will have part number on them STK392-110?
1-800-628-1118

This TV needs a service adjustment done. Looks like a vertical or horizontal IC is failing. I'd go ahead, and shut off until services adjustment is made. Have you unplugged for a few minutes and plugged back in? However, I'd have a service tech look at it.

This set was first made in 2003----

ONLY 1 of 2 things can cause this problem----First thing to do is remove front speaker grill--it should pull out and is secured with plastic pegs--behind it you will find an inspection plate---Notice the one or two pairs of wires coming from the front keyboard of the set---remove the inspection plate and follow the wires to the right--you can unplug both plugs(most have two and they are marked with letters and different sizes so you cannot get them wrong)

The idea here is to remove the front keyboard with its reset button etc from the circuit---You will still be able to try to turn the set on with the remote---these sets have a Receiver that is called a DM board--(large metal box to the left as you look from the back) and if the power goes out the green light will blink for about 70 seconds and then go out---it is the Receiver booting up. It is called the DM board.

If disconnecting the keyboard allows the set to turn on--you have a bad reset switch and two choices---either operate the set only with the remote or to remove the front screen and get at the reset switch (it is tiny) and remove and/or replace it.

If disconnecting the keyboard does not restore the set to operation---the receiver is bad---there are 4 or more caps and some pico fuses that can fail in that unit---Mitsubishi no longer sells or repairs these--if it is bad and not the caps there is a company you can send the unit to and have it repaired--if you need to know their name let me know---you can call them and get a quote for repairing the receiver.



SD TECH

1.) Most of these sets have a receiver built into the back(large metal box on left side as you look from the back.)

2.) Two possible reasons for green light constantly blinking(it is the receiver booting up if the set is disconnected from power---light should blink for about 70 seconds and go out).


3.) First reason: The recessed micro switch on the keyboard marked reset may be bad--does not happen a lot but it does happen. Easy way to see if this is the problem is to remove front speaker grill---and inspection plate behind it---from the keyboard you should see one or two groups of wires(they come from the keyboard) follow them to the right and unplug both(they are different and marked with letters). This takes the keyboard out of the circuit---you should still be able to turn the set on with your remote(remote receiver is behind the screen.) IF SET NOW WORKS YOU HAVE TWO CHOICES--USE IT ONLY WITH THE REMOTE OR HAVE SOMEONE REMOVE THE FRONT KEYBOARD AND UNSOLDER THE RESET SWITCH--the switch can be replaced without replacing the keyboard(it is a small circuit board with all the micro switches on it.)

4.) If disconnecting the keyboard does not fix the trouble---you have a problem in the "Receiver"----it happens on these sets and usually is repairable--Mitsubishi no longer sells this part and it was very expensive when they did---if disconnecting the keyboard does not cure the problem---let me know and I can give you options for getting the receiver repaired.

5.) Let me know if you have questions and if you need more advice reply to this post here.

I do this here for free so if this information helps you take a minute to give me a vote here---I am here to help people.


REGARDS, SD TECH

Need Parts & Services?

on your particular set the caps are usually not bad the dm board has to be replaced. It's not a cheap repair.

Bad solder on the vertical ic401, or bad solder on the yoke.

this is a problem with heating of some components of the TV inside it.

i would suggest you to look inside the unit and check for components with high heat

no it

You lost the 300v line to the tubes that pulls down the brightness. Trace back 300v line to power supply.