20 Most Recent Infinity Entra Sub Subwoofer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Yes I've been there !!!! Twice

Just apply the excellent solution of "dskum" that I am reproducing here:

dskum

I had the same sub and I started hunting down the problem by disabling \'sectional\' parts of the circuit to find out whats causing the problem. The problem was narrowed down to the small \'limiter\' circuit which is soldered vertically on the Pre-Amp. (The wire from power amp connects to it) As far me, the limiter circuit doesn\'t add much value, if you are careful enough not to push the subwoofer to its peak limits. There is a 7 wire bus which connects the Pre-Amp (top board) to the power amplifier (bottom board). In that 6 wires are just direct connection from pre-to- power amp board. The pre-amp output goes through the limiter. (1st black wire). To remove the limiter from circuit just physically remove the limiter board by de-soldering the 7 pins through which its connected to pre-amp. Also you may\'ve to clean up the glue around to easily remove it. Disconnect the 7 wire connector from the limiter and solder it directly to the pre-amp board. (Only 6 black wires need to be connected.) Check the picture. Also as part of experiment I replaced the power filter capacitors with slightly bigger capacity. (But its not necessary - the glue on the old capacitors made it look like it was bulged - but its not). The white wire (limiter feedback) is not necessary and that can be disconnected or cut off for good. All the popup/crackling/thumping it was making is gone and the sub is working great again. (Yes it was doing so even without any inputs). While de-soldering make sure don\'t apply too much heat. The boards are pretty weak and you might easily damage the solder pads. WhiWh Whil Also don\'t use any kind of diode or mess with it the limiter circuit. Just removing the limiter circuit makes it good. If you use diode to directly connect the pre-amp line to power line as suggested earlier you might be damaging it more than its currently since you are almost connecting to the 42 v rails to it. Also if you google you would come across the service manual if you are interested in the circuit diagram.

The 300 series Infinity speakers have a 100 watt frequency response. Here are several links that feature old Infinity speakers. http://www.bobbyshred.com/infinity.html http://www.davidsaudio.c/html/vintage_infinity__speakers_and.html

Check ebay - Edwards Electronics - fixes Infinity and JBL amps :) including the tss series

you have a nasty short cercuit in your woofer box due to constant mooving around or pulling the cords so get it fixed befor it costs you a lot more muney

Try hooking the speaker into a different input device if the problem still occurs most likely the built-in amplifier is shot & has a bad capacitor or other component. You can also try remove all RF emoting devices far away from speakers like cell phones, devices with motors like fans, or any other wireless device or least turn them off. Sometimes other devices on the same A/C circuit can cause interference, computers, tvs, etc.

The first thing to check in this situation would be the status of the internal buss fuse. If that is broken I would recommend replacing it and re-assess the situation.

Take a look at this site > http://www.ehow.com/how_6233596_remove-inside-single-cd-player.html

Either one of the drivers (woofer, midrange, tweeter) has a short in it, or there's short in the crossover network. The drivers all need to be taken out and the DCR checked; they should be between 3.5 to 4 ohms.. if those all check OK there is a shorted part in the crossover network.