20 Most Recent GE JE1640 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

It sounds like a problem with the door switch or mount or the control panel. I've attached an exploded view of the oven which shows the door switches and mount. They're located behind where the door hooks go into the chassis. You can find our safety and disassembly instructions at our site via my link here: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk If it's not switch-related, then you may have a shorted component on the control board. We repair these for customers nationwide for $32.50 postpaid in most cases.

I have this oven, and had the same problem..only after a time it got worse..eventually all the buttons did not work. The problem is the keypad itself. It is very easy to change. Remove the 3 screws along the top of the oven. Then the vent pane will slide to the right. You will then see 1 screw holding the entire keypad assembly. Unscrew that, and the keypad will angle forward. There are 5 connections holding it..unhook all of them (you might need to, write on a piece of paper where they go)..BUT, you can try this first, reconnect the ribbon to the keypad by sliding the locking plastic up and then slide the ribbon out..then reinsert it back down as far as it will go. Push the locking plastic back down. Reverse the the screws back..and try it. If it works great, but it may not last. You can order just the keypad (here's the issue, it costs about $171) and replace it by removing the 4 screws holding the circuit board over it. The new pad just snaps into place, reattach the new ribbon. I think the problem is because the steam when cooking goes right to where the keypad is. My oven is over the range..so now I use the vent fan all the time..hope this helps. If you need better instructions..search YouTube with you GE model and the words replace keypad.

Thank you so much for the info. The WD 40 worked perfectly on the door and my microwave in not turning on every time the door is opened. This info saved me time and $. Thanks

Check for an oped circuit on the high voltage fuse,if that is ok,the magnetron will need to be replaced

Finally built up the courage to call GE Appliance number and weave my way through the phone menu system. Pressed the right menu option (sales) to speak to someone about trim kits. Found out that the trim kit model number is JX1527MWW. Then called back to select a different menu option (other) and learned from someone else that since the trim kit model is more than 1-2 years old, there's a slim-to-none chance any new microwave models will work with it, and even if there was they couldn't easily cross-reference against a model that old to tell me which one (or something to that effect). So I hit a dead end. Only option for me at this point is to buy a new microwave with new trim kit.

(Personal note: I think the trim kit business is a racket, in bed with the microwave manufacturers. Why else would there be no standard dimensions for microwaves by now--like refrigerators have--and why is it a few pieces of sheet metal cost over $150? Pretty convenient that every microwave model needs its own trim kit model!)

Owners of a GE WES model might want to look at this blog post.

Hello.

Thanks.

When you smell something wire is burnt..The first that needs to check is the inside wiring.You need to open the back portion of your oven to further see whats the problem behind..You can unplug from the source and using a MULTITESTER.Check both terminals setting yuor TESTER to OHMS value.If the TESTERS pointer moves a little it means its not short-circuited ans if otherwise moves to its maximum amount it means it is short-circuited that needs to be repaired..Wiring might have been burnt.If you gonna continue using it it might lead to further complications of defects.Try to check the motor that turns the turntable..check the heating filament.hope this helps.