20 Most Recent GE JVM1651 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Either the bolb is broken or power connected to light is broken. Check voltage on connector to bolb.

Probably, depending on the model number.Normally you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the previously hidden screw(s) you need to remove. Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) that demonstrates how it's done. In some cases, you then have to gently rotate the handle to unlock it. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

F 11 code. it is a touch pad error.
If you just cleaned the control panel it may have water in the panel causing a key to stick.
If after a day or 2 it hasn't dried out - then you will need to replace the touch pad.

Visit www.searspartsdirect.com and enter in your full model number for a parts breakdown and schematics.

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There are three causes that will prevent the microwave oven from heating, the magnetron "common problem" or the high voltage capacitor or diode. Depending on the nature of repair, the cost for parts and labor can approach the price of a new unit.

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Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

jkf

If the microwave is not on a dedicated circuit, it's just the additional load the microwave is adding to the circuit which is causing the breaker to trip.

Hi,
As in your case the fuse keeps on blowing, thereare couple fo things that you will have to do fix it:
The problem your describing is most likely a cap problem. The transformers operate in saturation and therefore it's not likely to blow out the diode. The transformer is essentially energy limiting.
The capacitor or diode may be bad. Discharge the capacitor as described earlier in the article. Test the capacitor by removing the leads and setting the VOM to RX100. Probe the terminals. The reading should start in the low ohms and increase toward infinity. Reverse the probes and re-test. The reading should do the same thing. If not, it's bad. To test the diode, disconnect the diode from both the appliance and the capacitor. With the VOM set to RX100, probe the wires. Then reverse the probes and read again. You should get infinity for one reading and low ohms for the other reading. If not, replace. Another cause could be a faulty magnetron, but due to the sensitivity of that piece, it's best left to a professional.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/repairmicrowave
You can see the diagram of you model in order to do further repairs by going to the below mentioned link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=JVM1651
Choose you model no. and on the next page on the extreme left you will see the diagram of you model, click on the diagram to see a enlarged image.

The first thing I would check would be the magnetron TCO (thermal cut-out). This is a little safety devise that protects the magnetron in the event of overheating. These can act up even without overheating. I believe the nuetral side of this TCO runs through the board, and therefore the flickering and shutdown. When the TCO cools, it resets. If it were the door switch, you would blow the fuse and wouldn't be able to set the time without changing the fuse. There are other cavity thermostats that could be the culprit but my quess is on the magnetron TCO. When working with microwaves always unplug the unit and discharge the capacitor. This is high voltage..Good Luck

this microwave has a turntable motor that can be accessed from under the micro.. usually a $15-30part.. put your modle number on partsdirect.com and you can see how it comes apart