Outboard clutch illustration. The oil pump and worm gear are behind the clutch.
If inboard clutch do this first then view the outboard clutch to remove the rest. If out board clutch disregard the inboard clutch instruction.
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed.
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of starter cord or nylon rope be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it). Let us know how it worked for you.
Oil System Plugged.
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. GL
Lou Parts break out may be helpful for disassembly. Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier) https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here. The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.
When My Pioneer did that a close inspection found a wire edge on the top rear and bottom front rails of the bar. A flat file used at 45° to the rail removed it. The bar once again cuts true. The only other likely possibility is the chain is sharpened at different angles. HTH
Lou
you need to take the side cover off as if you were changeing the chain,there has to be sawdust or the like jamming things up in there and you wont know what until you expose the problem area, do that , and then come back to me if you cant work it out but that is where the trouble lies
No-fuel problems are the result of bad fuel lines from inside the fuel tank out to the carburetor. If lines look good, rebuild the carburetor itself to repair hard, cracked diaphragms and varnish build-up. If carburetor is a Walbro brand, go to: www.drystacked.com for a 12 page PDF on theory and repair. Good stuff!
Open the gas tank then reach something inside the tank. You will feel a small fuel line in there. Try to fish out the loose end of the line and you'll find a fuel filter on the end of it. Clean it or replace it and then try to start it again.
Buy a good quality oil and mix it to the OIL manufacturers recommendation regardless of what the chainsaw manual says. If you are poking around the barn and find an old can of Homelite 2 cycle oil that says mix 25:1 mix it at that ratio.
All modern oils, chainsaws, and the EPA recommend 50:1. There has been great improvement in 2 cycle technology over the years. To rich a mix causes carbon build up on the piston that breaks loose and scores the piston and cylinder, and it stinks!
i assume it's a petrol driven probaby 2 stroke? if yes then you need a service on the carb & air filter if the engine is going back ok on idle speed.if it does not & goes off when you release the throttle then you may need to check the compression chamber which might have been damaged by not adding stroke oil in the petrol mixture.Hope this helps and is a 2 stroke engine...
You need to set the mixtures for the carburetor. You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. At idle turn the screw in or clockwise until the rps starts to decrease. Then start turning it out till you hit max idle rpms. Turn screw back in a quarter to half turn and it should be idling smoothly. Be careful here and get someone to hold saw if necessary but hold in throttle to full speed and do the same with high adjustment screw. turn it in till rpm starts to drop then back it out until you get to max rpm and it won't go any higher then turn it back in a half a turn.
this may be due to restricted air flow.there might be a small foam filter were the air mixes it's probably cloged or dirty.clean or replace.hope that does it.
I would not use any other type of oil in the saw. 2 cycle oil is blended to desolve in gas and still protect your saws engine. You can get it every where for alot less than a new saw. Good Luck
I used to think it was 3- Half turns. But just now discovered on a Poulin Pro, about 1-year old, this was to much. Flooded. Went with, screwing all the way in, and then backing both H and L out just 1-full turn (2-Halves). Perfect. From older models of 2-stroke motors, if, when you pull trigger, there is a lag in acceleration, then open the L little more, till lag is gone. Then at wide open, turn H in little till motor is at it highest RPM (or out, which ever makes it fastest), then back out the H about 1/4 turn. You are finding its most lean point (highest RPM) but, you want to run it slightly rich for most horse power when motor loaded i.e. cutting.
I found the solution on www.arboristsite.com Look under chain saws. The answer is there somewhere; but if you don't have time to sort thru all the postings you can start a new post there. There is always someone there to answer your questions.
Needle valve in carb. maybe hung open. Or diaphragm may be bad. You will need to remove carb. and clean and replace all worn parts. Go to homelite.com to find manual for the saw.