Homelite ZR10926 16 Chain Saw - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check that you are using chain bar oil and not engine oil as that is the main reason for excessive oil usage make sure that there is the small restriction at the exit point if that is missing , then that will be your problem

most 2 stroke Homelite chainsaws run on a fuel/oil mix of 50:1 --- But on some older model saws they say to use 40:1 mix.
I own several 2 stroke machines and I use 50:1 on everything and they all run fine ( even when they say 40:1 ).

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try pulling the starting rope a little bit out before you pull start it. If this does not work replace the switch.

if the chain wont turn your clutch is the problem

I have a Homelite XL and was having problems with rope pulling from difficult to unable to pull rope while trying to start saw. I removed the muffler, squirted some WD40 through the exhaust port ABOVE and BELOW the piston compression ring. Then pulled the rope about 20 times without spark plug to fully lubricate the piston and cylinder. Left it till the next day, pulled it through about 20 more times, put the spark plug back in,and it works well now. Guess it was just gummed-up a little and the lubrication freed it.

Adjust idle, Adjust fuel/air mixture screw, check for clogged fuel filter/line, Take carb apart and clean all ports and screens.

Any more info?

look on the side of the cylinder for the compression release valve

This saw?
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/baf9791bfc773f1a88256c2600142688?OpenDocument

Homelite/Ryobi.com (authorized parts supplier)
https://www.gardnerinc.com/recons/disclaimer-lg.php - Agree; Choose “Product Line”; “Select OEM” & “Select Catalog” both to “Homelite Consumer Products”. A drop down list appears; self explanatory from here.
The numbers Homelite & Ryobi use do not match the numbers everyone posts. A careful inspection of your saw should find something that matches.

Find your saw, all parts are illustrated,

You give this same answer for every fuel line replacement but what is the real trick to getting the fuel line back 'into' the tank, especially in a Poulan where there is no soft rubber grommet that will expand..

Hello again Asher, I'm back. Let's just check a few things:Gas may be old and stale, this happens when you don't use machine for a long while. Empty old and put in new. Cap should have measurement.If this is a fuel/oil mixture machine, did you use straight gas? Not good if you did. This could damage your engine.Do you have spark? If not did you move OFF to ON switch?Did you put on choke and pull cord till engine almost starts?If it does this did you then put choke to 1/2 choke?If you get to this point and engine does start, let it warm shortly and put choke to open.If still no start it is possible that you have a carburator problem, and need a rebuild. Please let me know how you made out, GOOD LUCK.

Run it at 25-1 with good quaility two stroke oil.

Hi paulbonser... Set your point gap to .20 using a feeler gauge... You can also use a paper matchbook cover, it ia approx. .20 to set the gap on the points. Please take time tor rate me

Remove the spark plug, pull the throttle wide open, and pull the starter through smartly several times to expel the raw fuel. Recheck the spark at the plug--it should be blue and snappy with a fresh plug gapped at 0.020". If weak looking, the ignition module pole gap may need to be reset. Remove the left side cover to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Turn the flywheel until the magnets are under the module, insert a thin business card into the pole gaps, loosen the module screws to allow the module to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws, then rotate the flywheel somewhat to remove the card. Turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the pole gaps don't close any further. Recheck for spark. Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other problems. If you are still having problems, go to: www.drystacked.com for a 12 page article on Walbro brand carburetor theory and troubleshooting. Pay particular attention to the placement of the lower chamber gasket--if on the wrong side of the diaphragm, the fuel control will be incorrect. Hope some of this helps!

You can download then print your Homelite manual by going to www.homelite.com/service/product owners manuals the best way to do it is to right click on the material, left click save, put in in your Documents folder, then retrieve it to print if you actually have to hold paper. Good luck

Hi paintercy...
Your problem is with dirt/trash in your inlet valve of the carburetor allowing the fuel to continue running into the engine.
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws .
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle chainsaw with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the chainsaw is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Pull the chainbrake lever back to the handle bar, regards Phil.

Hi gjoun...
You will need "Chain and Bar" oil to lube the chain and bar. Special oil made just to lubricate the chain and bar as the chain is running.
For the engine you can use the low grade of gasoline...and 2 cycle oil.
Fuel mix...50 to 1 = 1pint of 2 cycle oil to 6 gallons of gasoline.
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loosen up the bar nuts by the motor, this will allow the bar to slide, and you will be able to get chain back on. then to tighten pull the bar out away from motor and tighten bar nuts.

Hi. 50 to 1.