20 Most Recent Poulan 14 in. 2.0 Peak Horsepower Electric Chain Saw Questions & Answers

its probably like the gas model. so you remove the 2 nuts holding on the side cover of the blade side, remove the cover and the blade and chain. To fit back, slacken the adjuster screw a little bit, or if fitting a new chain then a fair amount, as you have to be careful that the pin on the adjuster fits into the proper hole on the saw bar, as you fit back on the bar, of which you have already cleaned out the grooves. supporting the bar in the slackest position, fit on the chain, making sure that the cutting edge at the bottom is coming towards the motor. Then slide the bar and chain away from the motor to take up the slack, then fit back the metal guide in the original position, fit cover with the adjuster pin in its hole on the bar, and replace the 2 nuts almost tight but slack enough to use the adjuster to set the chain to cutting position..slightly sagging on the sprocket nose type, or snug on the solid nose type..then tighten the cover 2 nuts firmly but not excessively as that will damage the machine..NB the bar & chain depends on the adjuster, not on the nuts tightness to maintain tension

Short line on primer bulb goes to the left side of the carb. The long side on the primer bulb goes to in the fuel tank as the return line.

there is a small oil pump behind the cltch

The lines should be connected to push fuel into the carburetor. The output (overflow) of the carb is routed back into the tank. So, two lines in the tank, one is an overflow (return) and the other is the suction. On the primer one line from the tank and the other to the carb. Connect so as to "push" fuel into the carb when the primer bulb is pushed.

http://www.poulanpro.com/ddoc/POUO/POUO2010_USen/POUO2010_USen_1420_.pdf

I would say that it's time for a new chain. After using for varying periods of time the chain will stretch too far to be used anymore. This is caused by heating during usage. Some things that will cotribute to chain wear out are insufficient bar oil, dull chain or just every day wear. I think if you get anew chain you'll be fine. When I'm tensioning my chains I run the saw at high rpm for a couple of mins. Shut off and grasp chain by mid-point of bar and lift up. I try to get enough space to slip a nickle between bar and bottom of chain. You should check tension often, as over tightening also adds to wear on chain and motor. Hope this helps you. Thanks

There is an adjustment either on the same side as the bar or possible in the front near the bar. if you dont know how to adjust the chain properly then you really need to look through the manual. if you dont do it right you can cause more damage.

Remove the cover that cover the rear of the chain bar.Now,loosen the nuts that attach the bar and slide the bar reward.Now set the chain in the slotted part of the bar,pull it forward until there is abut 3/8 of an inch slack in the chain an tighten the nuts.Re-install the cover.

Hello Jennifer;
The number of drive links, pitch and gauge of the chain need to be determined to answer your question. If you take your saw or just the chain to a local chain saw outlet a new chain can be fabricated in a very few minutes. This will save shipping and handling fees as well. While there get the numbers mentioned above. Once you have these you can likely find a low kickback chain in a local home center the next time the chain needs replacement.
The FAQs here can likely answer all your questions.
http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/service/faq.htm

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

You need to loosen the cover fasteners before the adjuster will do anything. Turn the adjuster CW to tighten the chain--bring the chain up to the bar, but not so tight that you can't move the chain by hand. Recheck the tension after tightening the cover fasteners. Hope this helps!

Does the chain move when the motor is started? Make sure the chain doesn't droop from the lower side of the bar and the teeth cut toward you on the bottom side. The chain should not be so tight that you can't move it by hand. Run the saw for a few moments with the tip near a piece of cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. Make sure that the chain is properly sharpened and cuts without undue effort. Hope this helps!

Usually, the fuel filter gets gummed-up from leaving it in any kind of fuel for long periods of time. Fish it out of the tank and either clean it in spray-carburetor-cleaner or replace it. Check the condition of the fuel lines while you are at it. Proper storage is to drain the tank and run the engine until it stops. If still won't run, the carburetor internals may need cleaning and re-kitting. Make sure the spark plug is firing correctly. Hope this helps!

Go here (type P3314 in the “Model Number” window):
http://www.poulanpro.com/node5782.aspx
Open the second one (start procedures are the same – page numbers vary slightly)
The start procedures are on page 10. If the engine is cold - Please read the second NOTE: before trying to start.
If warm – read the DIFFICULT STARTING (or starting a flooded engine). I would try it with choke closed first (Pull to full choke; push to off choke). Hard starting is almost always flooded on a 2-cycle engine. You can prime all you like; priming does not inject the fuel mix into the carburetor. It circulates mix from the fuel tank through the carburetor and returns any excess to the tank.
I hope you found this helpful. If you have questions or need additional assistance you can reply below.
Lou

make sure the little tooth on the end of the adjuster for the chain is locked into the groove its supposed to go into and tighten it down.
Note: the chain is supposed to get loose on you but not as quickly as it is. maybe after an hour or so of cutting.
and as for it not cutting well, the chain may need sharpened.
if it has been sharpened once by someone than take it to someone esle if it is not satisfactory.