20 Most Recent Kenmore 72073 Top Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

hhttp://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.htm

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you will need a multimeter. check continuity thro the heater and stats mounted on the evaporator

Turn the temp down and put ice cream on the door.

I have the same problem and from reading on the web I think I have found the problem. It is a bad Freezer Thermistor and they are very inexpensive. I am posting a link that can help you determine if this is the problem.

I found some service instructions for Kitchenaid side by side fridges with electronic control. Since both your fridge and KA's are made by Whirlpool, the instructions should apply. I learned something new, there are TWO thermistors! To download the instructions go to Service Matters Online click on technical reference, then next pge click on I accept, next page click on technical library [left sidebar], next page click on job aids [left sidebar], next page click on search job aids [upper middle of the page], next page type in refrigerator then click on search, next page click on KA side by side electronic control [KAR-10], next page click on the pdf symbol, then print out the document.

sounds like you have a gap in the door seal, which results in condensation forming inside unit. Use a blow dryer to heat the seal around the door and ensure that the fit is tight.

Hi!!! Yes its normal dont panic just relax and have a cold soft drink..Nothing is wrong with your frig..Remember defrost cycle is 15-20-or 30 minutes depending on the frig..Good luck..Its all normal..

you have a clogged defrost drain tube. removing back panel of freezer will give you acess to drain trough, melt away the ice with a hair dryer, youll find a drain hole under there somwhere,pouring boiling water down the drain will clear it pretty quickly( i use a steam machine purchased from the infomercials works awesome, after you clear it and all water drain down tube wrap a piece of solid copper wirearound the heater( black calrod heater right above the drain trough) and stick it in the whole maybe an inch or so. now everythime the heater comes on to defrost it will prevent the hole from freezing over

Check if the doors seal properly and do not put any hot food into the fridge.
This is always caused from condensation.
You can also try to set the thermostat a bit up, or if it has a timer,set the timers defrost bit lower.
also test if the de frost heaters is turning of when the compressor starts.

Good luck....

This could be the door rubbers, try boiling some water and pour it slowly over the rubber,it would turn soft and wold return to the original state.

now close the door and with a hair dryer set on hot,blow on the rubber untill it seals all over.
let the door stand close for at least 6 ours...

Let me know if it worked..

Good luck.

I have the same problem. The refrig and freezer are cold but not freezing and not cold enough. I have a friend tell me it probably is the relay. His did the same and that was the issue.

you have a defrost issue, posslble heater, defrost thermo, or a defrosttimer, something not working correctly as of now you have a manual defrost refrig

sounds like you have a clogged defrost drain tube. removing back panel of freezer will give you acess to drain trough, melt away the ice with a hair dryer, youll find a drain hole under there somwhere,pouring boiling water down the drain will clear it pretty quickly( i use a steam machine purchased from the infomercials works awesome, after you clear it and all water drain down tube wrap a piece of solid copper wirearound the heater( black calrod heater right above the drain trough) and stick it in the whole maybe an inch or so. now everythime the heater comes on to defrost it will prevent the hole from freezing over

Worth checking if it's a starter problem before you do anything else. Leave the thing switched off for a couple of hours, then try and create a little hush around you while you switch the freezer back on. If you're really lucky, this may get you going again (some freezers can get into a complete mess if the power goes off for just a second or so at the wrong moment). If the compressor doesn't start, leave it switched on and listen carefully for a minute or two. A distinct "pdoink" sound some time after power is applied points towards the starter (which is usually under a plastic cover mounted on the compressor body). Replacing this isn't difficult and is usually cheap enough to be worth a gamble (but read the last paragraph, as there's a substantial risk it won't work). If there are no suspicious sounds (and maybe before you go spending money on a starter even if there are suspicious sounds), use a multimeter to test (carefully) whether electricity is getting to the starter. If it isn't, then find out whereabouts the power supply is getting interrupted. If power is getting as far as the starter, and the compressor is still not running even with a new starter, then you're starting to get into "beyond economic repair" territory. A.

yes i have its from over foaming used to happen a lot in the old days are the poppins sounds when the compressor firsts cuts on if it is its from freon expansion and you can get a sound damping pad and put around the line's comming in to the evaporator