20 Most Recent Toto Carlyle 1-piece Elongated Bowl Toilet Questions & Answers

Here's how I fixed the same problem on a different model toilet.

A longer piece of tubing may solve the problem. Put the extra down the overflow tube so it won't pop out. Hope this helps.

If this noise your hearing is water related and I talking inlet water filling the tank then the ballcock needs rebuilt or replaced.
Now if every toilet in the house is doing the same sounds then we are into a different scenario.

If you want to be able to just tip the seat and let if fall without that loud slamming clank, look into getting some Drop-a-Seat cushions, a brand new product that is only $4.99 and absorbs the fall of the toilet seat and eliminates loud clanks. They're non-absorbent, have an easy stick-on installation, and are permanent but removable. www.drop-a-seat.com

• That toilet seat does not have any adjustments to prevent it from slamming but there are some hinges you can buy to make that stop. They are called "slow close" toilet seat hinges. Most of the time they come on the toilet seat itself.
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• The seat stays up when needed and then with a light push the toilet seat will slowly desend to the bowl never to slam again.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYA.

Regards, Tony

Yes, there is either a screw that can be turned lowering or raising the water level, usually found on top of the fill valve.

Or there is a lever system that raises or lowers the float, thereby raising and lowering the water level.

The first it typically found on fill valves with a float ball attatched by a metal rod to the top of the fill valve.

The second are on the "fluidmaster" type fill valves.

If you still cannot find the water level adjustment describe in detail or provide pictures of the type of fill valve you have and I will walk you through it.

Vent pipe may need cleaning out, vent stops up your system has to get air to work so it will take it from where it can get it and the toilet maybe the easied place.
You may have a vent pipe that may be partly blocked or clogged up. To check a vent pipe out you can have someone fill a sink or tub up to the flood level rim and plug the drain. Have them remove the stopper and watch the toliet you have had issues wit to see any water movement. Once you deteemine which one is the cause you can snake the vent pipe or run a water hose down the vent and turn it on to flush out the vent pipe.

Hope this will help you out.

More details needed.

http://www.totousa.com/Professionals/Downloads/OwnersManuals.aspx

There is a piece thats actually called the flapper. It is a rubber flap that has a hing on it and is attached to the bottom of the tank. When you flush, the chain pulls this flap up and allows the water to go out of the tank into the bowl. Attach the chain to the unhinged side of this flapper. Hope this helped.

Try cleaning out the fill valve, it usually has a rather small orifice in it and does not require much to clog.

Depending on the age of the toilet the flapper and fill valve may need to be replaced. also need to make sure there is not a blockage in the bowl outlet. if your not getting enough water then I would look at the fill valve. once that is replaced the tank should fill and flush normally.

If you have a supply shut off to fixture shut it off and disconnect supply line from inlet to toilet . If your supply line to toilet is a flexible line then bend it so that you can direct water to small container. Slowly turn valve on to see what flow rate is at that point. If flow rate is not good then I would shut water off to house and replace valve. If flow rate to toliet is good I would reccomend you replace flush vallve. To do this shut off water supply to toilet. Disconnect supply nut to bottom of flush valve. There will be a retaining nut that holds flush valve in place in toilet tank. Remove flush valve after removing fill tube from flush valve to overflow tube. Replace with toto replacement valve or use Fluidmaster 400A. Instructions on box of 400A are easy to follow and if you have flex connector you won't need supply line washer. I would reccomend that before you install new valve that you put rubber gasket on shank of valve and slid it about halfway up the shaft. Make sure that inside of tank is dry and use a small bead of silicon caulking on top and bottom side of shaft gasket. slid gasket the rest of the way on valve shank,install in tank and put on retaing nut hand tight. Push down on top of valve and using channel lock pliers finish tightening nut securely.You may need to reach into tank and grasp valve body to stop it from turning. There are other things you can do if you have a working supply valve. Shut off valve and remove screws that hold top of valve in place and remove and clean surfaces. You can turn valve on slowly to help flush out any rust or mineral deposits. I hope this is of some help to you. Thanks