20 Most Recent Toto Promenade, 1.6 GPF, Elongated Two-Piece Toilet, Cotton - CST424SFG Questions & Answers

It is a little stiff but you won't break it. Just turn the cap counter clockwise (left) about an inch and it'll come right off. Put the replacement cap on by doing the reverse and it should be good to go. I have 7 of these toilets and they all needed cap replacements within 2 years. When you change it be sure to flush any sedimant out of the valve body as that's what usually causes the problem. Once you have the cap off hold a small pail or large cup upside down over the valve body and turn the water on for a few seconds. The cup will keep the water in the tank and the body will be cleared of sediment. After changing a couple and on the recommendation of the local Toto distributor I decided that it would better to just replace the whole valve with a FluidMaster unit (about $8 at Home Depot). The Fluidmaster units have been working fine for 6 years. It takes less than 20 minutes to replace the whole valve but is, of course, a bit more work than changing the cap.

It sounds like there is a buildup of waste at the top of the trap in the toilet. A closet snake should resolve the problem. You do not have to snake more than a couple of feet of the drain if the buildup is at the top of the trap which is always dry. Try the closet snake and a couple of buckets of hot water while flushing the bowl. Rigid makes a good closet snake and is worth the cost. After clearing, make it a habit of holding down the lever until you hear the tank empty when flushing down solids. Especially with the 1.6 gallon tanks.

Look at float level, be sure that you are not running water into the overflow tube. Is the inlet valve closing? Pull the little tube that goes from the inlet valve assembly to the overflow tube and observe... Check the flapper valve for distortion, deterioration, or buildup. If anything is there, replace it.

Hi,

Toilets leaks are typically related to three situations. First, the toilet wax ring may have failed. The toilet wax ring sits underneath the toilet bowl and forms an air tight seal with the toilet trap. If the wax ring fails, or the toilet bowl screws that hold the bowl to the floor are loose, water can seep around the edges of the toilet bowl. You can check for this type of leak by using a paper towel and slipping it under and around the toilet bowl base. If you see moisture on the paper towel chances are the toilet bolts are loose and/or the toilet wax ring has failed. Try gently tightening the bolts. If that does not solve the problem, you will need to replace the toilet wax ring.

The second area where toilet leaks spring up is where the toilet tank connects to the toilet bowl. There is a rubber toilet tank gasket that connects the two that can break down over time. Look carefully around the base of the toilet tank and the back edge of the toilet bowl to see if any leaks have occurred. If so, you can try gently tightening the bolts that connect the tank and bowl together, but be careful to not over-tighten. You could crack either the toilet tank or bowl. If tightening up the bolts does not help, you will need to turn off the water supply to the toilet, drain the tank and replace the toilet tank gasket between the tank and the bowl.

The third area where toilets leak is around the water supply line, either up under the toilet tank base, or near the valve area. Sometimes you can resolve the problem by tightening up the associated nuts with a pair of adjustable pliers. Other times you may need to get an entirely new supply line.

The last possibility is that there may be a hairline crack in the toilet tank or bowl. Again, carefully inspect the tank for any cracks. If you see any, you will need to replace either the tank or bowl, depending upon where the crack is.

I would put in a FluidMaster system.

http://www.fluidmaster.com/index.asp?bhcp=1

There should still be a shut-off valve or mechanism that allows the water to run. Please describe the assembly in the tank.

fill valve not shutting off water running over overflow tube set or replace fill valve flapper valve leaking replace flapper valve cracked and leaking flush valve assembly replace

I would change fill valve. You can use a simple valve such as a Fluidmaster 400A and change it youself if you feel comfortable doing it yourself,just follow insruction on box. Thanks

You have a problem with your flapper not seating all the way so the water is not filling in the tank to lift the ball **** to shut off the water first make sure the flapper is ok

It sounds like the fill valve is not operating correctly. Remove the fill valve which it the tall item inside the tank where the water runs through and replace it with a universal replacement part from your local hard ware store. Take the valve to the store so that you can get the proper replacement piece.

Check the linkage going from the handle to the flapper inside the tank. If it is too long, it won't lift the flapper high enough causing you to have to do it manually by holding the handle. Also check the flapper itself. They are a rubber piece that seals the output of the tank smack dab in the center of the bottom of the tank. Depending on the age of the toilet and if you have hard water, it should be replaced. It's a $5 part at Home Depot or Lowes. Most of them do not even require tools to install. The rubber just slips over a couple little ears on each side of the siphon tube.

Don't know if you have calcium build up problems. If you do you could pour a calcium cleaner into the tank to try and clear up the problem. This would be the only way to possibly clean the enclosed area. Good Luck. Jeff

I have a Toto Dorian 1.6 Gpf where the right side of the cover separated from the seat frame. I fixed it by removing the seat from the toilet base and driving the stainless steel shaft back into the cover hibge holes.

To remove the toilet seat, use a large phillips head screw drive and unscrew the two long screws that hole the seat to the base.

Then you will see the two steel rods about 1/4 inch in diameter that have worked there way out of the seat hinge. Use a hammer and a screw driver to drive these two hinge pins back out into the toilet seat cover hinge holes.

Replace the toilet seat and screw in the two seat screws being careful to not over tighten them. The seat should now work correctly.

EAZY GET PAIR TOOLS UNSCREW THE BOTTOM PLASTIC BOLTS IT SUD COME OFF EAZY

John, If it suddenly became slower, I think it would be worth the trouble to try to clean out the valve. But if it happened over a long period of time (months), then I would just go for a new assembly. But here's one more simple (but long shot) thing to try... close and open the shut-off valve on the supply line a couple of times.

The screw can be used but only for minor adjustments. The missing tube should be replaced. If this doesn't solve the problem purchase a repair kit. The repair kit comes with everything you need for about $20 and can be installed yourself (saving $$$ if you called a plumber)