While adjusting clutch cable on 2008 heritage i over tightened the cable adjuster and i heard something snap in the clutch plate area. any idea what i might have broke?

About halfway down the clutch cable is an adjustment, covered by an accordian boot.

Slide the boot up out of the way, and at the adjuster, loosen the lock nut, and shorten the adjuster as short as possible.

Go back to the clutch pressure plate you seen under the primary cover.
In the center is an allen head screw with a lock nut around it.

Loosen the lock nut, and turn the allen head out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn.

Slowly turn it back in until you just feel it touch something. This is the adjustment screw touching the pushrod that moves the pressure plate out, to allow the clutch to release. Make sure the lock nut is unscrewed enough that it is not hitting the plate, causing the adjustment screw to feel like it stopped.

Again, with the adjustment screw JUST lightly touching, unscrew it 1/2 to 1 full turn.
Hole the screw from turning while you tighten the lock nut (about 20 ft/lbs torque, slightly more than spark plugs).

Now, go back to the cable adjuster, and unscrew it so the adjuster lengthens.
You want to adjust it so there is just a little free play at the clutch lever.
At the clutch lever, pull the cable away from it just enough to remove any free play. You're NOT trying to pull the cable off! LIGHTLY pull just to remove slack!

Proper adjustment is when the gap created by the above (between cable end and clutch lever cable holder/mount) is 1/16" - 1/8", go back and tighten cable adjustment lock nut, while holding the adjuster from turning.
3 wrenches help, 2 in one hand to hold the two adjuster hexes, and a 3rd one to tighten the lock nut.

Pull the clutch lever 3-5 times to insure the clutch release ramp balls are seated, and recheck the cable gap at the clutch lever.

If this doesn't work, the clutch plates probably got "welded" together (not literally, but a term used to indicate they are stuck together).

Then you'll have to tear the clutch pack apart to free up/inspect the plates.
A special clutch diaphram spring tool is needed for this.

Try this:

Loosen clutch cable all the way (so you don't get a false setting).
Loosen clutch push rod adjuster (in center of pressure plate).
Turn adjuster in until it JUST touches.
Back off 1/2 to 1 turn and tighten locknut.

Be careful when tightening locknut that the adjuster doesn't turn also, decreasing play.

Readjust clutch cable, leaving 1/16" to 1/8" slack.

Adjust clutch!

Loosen adjuster on clutch cable completely.

Remove round cover on primary cover.
Loosen lock nut around screw in center of clutch plate.
Back off adjusting screw.
Tighten screw until it JUST touches.
Back off 1/4 turn.
Hold in place while tightening lock nut.

Adjust clutch cable adjuster until there's 1/16-1/8" free play at hand lever.

Loosen adjuster on clutch cable completely.

Remove round cover on primary cover.
Loosen lock nut around screw in center of clutch plate.
Back off adjusting screw.
Tighten screw until it JUST touches.
Back off 1/4 turn.
Hold in place while tightening lock nut.

Adjust clutch cable adjuster until there's 1/16-1/8" free play at hand lever.

Change all fluids. Adjust clutch. Check spark plugs. Adjust primary chain. Lube cables. Check air pressures. Check all lights. Adjust throttle cables. Check spoke tightness. Check fall away (neck bearings). Check rear belt tension. Tighten critical fasteners. Check proper operation of all controls.

take all slack out of cable . take derby cover off loosin lock nut in center if pack tighten addj screw turn in till seats back out 1/2 to 1 turn tighten lock nut . take slack out of cable . hatleytalking.con ...good luck

To replace the clutch discs in your clutch pack, first disconnect the battery and drain the oil from the primary case. Remove the primary case. Take the circlip in the middle of the clutch assembly out and remove the clutch adjuster plate. Then loosen and remove the bolts that hold the clutch together. Loosen them all and take them out evenly loosening each bolt one or two turns at a time so as not to warp the clutch spring. Once you get this off, you can remove the spring and the clutch plates. As you take the individual parts out, notice the sequence that they are installed in the clutch basket. When you replace the parts you wish to replace, make sure you get everything back in the proper order. Put a little Loctite 242 med. blue on each of the bolts that hold the spring plate on. Replace the clutch adjuster plate and circlip. Replace the primary cover and fill with oil up to the bottom edge of the outer clutch basket with the bike standing straight up. Do not overfill or your clutch will drag. Adjust the clutch according to the manual.

To adjust the clutch, find the clutch cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. Slide the protective boot up or down and loosen the lock nut. Turn the adjuster barrel inwards to get as much slack as you can get.

Remove the derby if you don't have it off. Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster screw in the middle of the clutch assembly. Back the center screw up until it's completely free and then turn it back in until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW. It will break the inner clutch hub if you force it. If necessary, perform this several times to get the "feel" of what you're doing. Once you feel the resistance, stop, then back off 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock nut down.

Then go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel out until you've got about an 1/8 freeplay in the cable. Squeeze the clutch a few times and recheck the freeplay. Tighten the lock nut and replace the rubber boot.

Good Luck
Steve

It sounds like the clutch is "stuck". This is when the fiber plates stick to the metal plates and will not disengage the clutch. You can try putting the transmission on high gear, pulling the clutch lever in, and rocking the bike back and forth a bit. If it's going to come loose, it'll do it in the first one or two bumps. If it takes more than that, you may damage the fiber discs.

To fix the problem, you must disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the six hex head bolts from the clutch spring holder and remove it and the spring. Then remove the fiber and steel plates one at a time. If you find any of them stuck together, pry them apart or soak them in gasoline until they come apart. Be careful in your use of gasoline as a cleaning agent. But, a varnish forms on the plates that mineral spirits or other solvents will not cut. Gasoline works but is very hazardous to use. Once you get the plates apart and cleaned, lightly sand the fiber discs using a figure "8" motion on a sheet of medium grit emery cloth. Reassemble the clutch and adjust.

To adjust the clutch, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable. Break the locknut loose and turn the adjuster inwards until you get a lot of slack in the cable. Then, go to the clutch and break the locknut in the middle of the clutch assembly loose. Turn the center bolt inwards until you feel a resistance. Do NOT force the screw, turn it inwards until you feel resistance. Then back the screw out about 1/2 turn and lock the locknut. Go back to the cable and adjust the adjuster outward until you get 1/8" of freeplay in the cable. Squeeze the lever a few times and recheck the freeplay. If correct, lock the locknut on the cable adjuster.

Good Luck
Steve

mostley the clutch adjustment should be able to be done on the clutch cable. If that does not work, then you need to be looking at taking the clutch apart. When in storage for a long time, the clutch plates can become stuck together.