Clutch lever bite point

Loosen the handle bar adjustment a lot, .then take a little slack out of the cable at the engine connection, then re-adjust the handlebar lever with a bout 1/8" play

while engine is not running follow the clutch cable back to its point of origin & look for any other clutch adjustments besides the the one at the clutch handle if all clutch cable adjustments are backed off & clutch is still slipping its time for a new clutch assy buy a clymers repair manual,

Possibly, first remove clutch cable or drain hydraulic system I do not know what clutch activating system you have.
For cable system after removing cable bend in a loop with about 6" of each end crossing. grip lightly between thumb and finger of one hand. See if the inner cable can be easily moved use only light pressure. If it doesn't move easily try getting as much oil down the cable as possible. Repeat looping and testing and lubing until inner cable moves freely. Replace on bike make sure you adjust correctly and have enough free play also grease the lever fixing point and grease the adjuster. If this fails you need a new cable, make sure you lube it well before fitting.

For Hydraulic system make sure the lever is working properly and put a small amount of brake fluid in the master cylinder make sure the fluid moves when the lever is squeezed. Check the clutch end of the mechanism for leaks and wear. Refill master cylinder and bleed the system you need to grease the lever pivot. If this fails I am afraid its dealer/workshop/service center time.

find your master cyl. there should be adjust rod there

What have you done to the machine in the time before you noticed this problem? It could be that your clutch friction plates are worn. This would give you the same problems, it may also be a badly adjusted clutch cable. You need to make sure the clutch lever(handlebar) moves at least 3/4 inch at the end of the lever, before it bites or releases.

The reason for the high biting point is simple. The clutch is made of 3 main components.
The pressure plate friction plate and the release bearing.
The more times clutch is depressed the concentric spring fingers wear in 2 ways . Firstly by good old metal to metal rubbing and secondly the concentric spring fingers don't return as far as a new one causing the release bearing or csc to adjust .
When the pressure plate concentric spring gingers wear they don't sit proud and require more pedal effort to depress. .
When they loose there spring like feature they require a greater distance from the release bearing. Or it has to travel further to depress them to lift The pressure plate and fee the friction plate from the lay shaft on which it is splined onto to give you drive once released.
The further back the bearing has to travel to allow the fingers to clamp the pressure plate to the friction plate . The more the clutch has become worn and unserviceable.
Self adjustment on hydraulic clutches are a hard one to gauge as you have no idea how far the piston has moved out to compensate for this wear . With a cable you can physically see the wear and adjust .
High biting points on any car are useless. You want a biting point to be 2 to 3 inches from the top and not nearly level with the brake pedal.
Anyway it seems apparent that Peugeot and Citroen both have high to almost no point at which they bite .
I myself would modify this as an engineer.
But it seems to be normal on these cats to have absolutely no biting point worth talking about.
My sisters 2012 206 1.4 is a very high biting point and I myself would not be happy with it . It gives u no indication of a worn clutch if its self adjusting.
Alll hydraulic clutches are self adjusting. So why are Peugeot and Citroens sooo high. Its ridiculous.
A very idiotic idea and I'm taking it back with her and I'm complaining. Hopefully I should get somewhere and ill update you all

Hi, if you are ok doing this type of job, then its quite easy to fit a cable, remove the seat, undo the 2 bolts securing the fuel tank and prop up the back end of the fuel tank, remove the gear change lever by removing the 10mm bolt, remove all the screws holding the sprocket caseing, next comes the cable with the case still on the engine undo the locking nut on the clutch cable, (12 mm), next get the new cable and lay it along side the whole length of the old cable and fasten it to the frame where ness, screw in the addjuster all the way at the clutch lever and align the slot for cable removal from the lever now remove the sprocket cover and old cable with it, undo the cable adduster all the way until it is removed from the case, push the cable wire back to remove it from the clutch control arm inside the case, try not to remove the arm as it will fit back in more than 1 position, retaining the original position is important, you can then refit the new cable into the arm a small amount of grease on the cable nipple will help, replace the case back onto the engine it should fit flush with no effort, replace all the screws, it important they are fitted in accordance, so place them loosly in the holes they should all protude around the same amount, if any are shorter or longer move them around untill correct. Once happy tighten them up, connect the cable at the control lever on the handlebar and then remove all the slack from the cable at both ends untill you have around 5mm free play at the handlebar end, replace gear change lever, and all other fixings.

Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

There should be about 1/8" end play on the clutch handle. Adjust the cable at the handlebars where the cable goes into the clutch lever housing. Screw the adjuster inward until the end play is present. Some bikes have an adjuster at the gearbox where the cable hooks up.