Hi, Vanessa before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. charging problem HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... HONDA CBR 1100XX SUPER BLACKBIRD 1998 2004 BIKE REPAIR SERVI Download... $15 https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda 1998 CBR1100XX Owner Manual
Oi, Eduardo e os suspeitos habituais s?o:
1. Velas de igni??o embebidas.
2. Severamente descarregado ou uma bateria danificada deve ter 12,5 volts ou mais e poder passar um test "LOAD" adequado, se necess?rio, voc? pode ter uma leitura preliminar de 12,5 volts ou mais, mas pouco ou zero, a bateria est? com defeito e deve ser substitu?do, as baterias AGM falham neste cen?rio mais do que as baterias de chumbo-?cido.
3. Verifique os terminais da bateria para danos ou corros?o, verifique se os cabos da bateria est?o "AMBOS" para conectores soltos, corro?dos ou quebrados, "INSIDE" e fora do chicote de fios, execute o test de mecha do conector e verifique os cabos com um ohm?metro, se necess?rio.
4. Conex?o solta na bobina de igni??o ou conex?o entre o sensor de igni??o e o m?dulo.
5. Cabos da vela de igni??o em mau estado, curto-circuito / vazamento, conex?es do cabo da vela de igni??o verifique a vaz?o da centelha no escuro.
6. Bobina de igni??o ou m?dulo de controle eletr?nico defeituoso. 7. Bobina de pulso com defeito.
8. Sensor defeituoso CKP, CMP ou BAS.
9. Interruptor de igni??o defeituoso.
10. Comutador de marcha / desligamento defeituoso
11. O sensor de inclina??o precisa de uma reinicializa??o.
12. O alarme de seguran?a ao desarmar precisa ser redefinido Para obter mais informa??es sobre o seu problema e downloads valiosos "GR?TIS" que voc? precisar? para visualizar ou imprimir, clique nos links azuis abaixo. Boa sorte e tenha um dia maravilhoso.
99 blackbird no spark How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle 1999 2002 CBR1100XX Super Blackbird Repair Manual Download Manuals... $15 https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda 1998 CBR1100XX Owner Manual
Sounds like it. Are your plugs sooting up? Does it smell over-rich? Has fuel consumption got worse?
First thing I would do is check the air filter. If it, or the air intake pipes are blocked or restricted then not enough air is getting in to form the correct air/fuel mixture. This means that even if the mixture setting is correct for normal running, the correct amount of fuel is being delivered but cannot combust efficiently with the reduced amount of air creating an over rich mixture.
If all is as it should be then spray carb cleaner into the air intake (engine running, air filter out) in short bursts. The engine will stutter as the cleaner runs through the system so be prepared to blip the throttle to keep it running. When it runs smooth again, another burst of carb cleaner, blip until smooth again and repeat a few times. This will clean out the jets and deposits in the carb and may help.
As you used the word motorway instead of highway, I am guessing you are in the UK and not US. In which case don't buy the cleaner from Halfords as motor factors are way way cheaper (£2 instead of a fiver a can).
Good luck and let me know how you get on.
Wire could be off at trans swith.It happens.If neutral light won't come on sitting still and flipping through to find nuetral,could be the wire off or nuetrak switch bad.It's just a little ball and spring under the switch that drops into a slot on the roller plate on the shifter.If wire is connected at trans,unplug it and hook aligator clip of a test light to it and the point of testor on positive of battery.Find neutral,if test light doesn't light up,replace the switch.That's best way to find out.
The Fi light indicates that your Fuel injection system is working. If it's not working - the engine wouldn't run!
When I first started having the light come on it didn't seem to effect
anything, it was only a couple of thousand miles later when the light
would come on intermittantly and then the engine would cut out. I'd
switch the ignition off and on again (while rolling) and it would run as
if nothing wrong.
If it's coming from the overflow, try a new radiator cap first. They do get weak and won't hold the proper pressure. Be sure to check the pressure rating labled on the cap and replace it with one of equal rating. Good luck!
First thing to do, is contact the old owner and ask him if he had an issue with this, if so how often he had to top up the system, etc, when you returned from your trip, was the gurgling noise when you turned the key off , it is normal on a hotengine to hear this noise when the engine has stoped as the coolant system is under pressure, and the noise is the water forcing its way back to the resovior, if it is overheating the expanding water will eventualy push its way out through the overflow off the resovoir, when cold check coolant level in radiator and resovoir, if these are ok then, have you heard the fan come on? How far does the temp gauge go up, also 33000 miles is not high for a12 year old bike