20 Most Recent 1999 Honda CBR 1100 XX Super blackbird Questions & Answers

K&N filters? There are parts in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Honda+CBR+1100+XX+Super+Blackbird+air+intake+plastic+parts ..

Question edited for clarity and add maker. Question moved from Cars and Trucks. Follow the hoses until you come to the housing shown in the images. It is an unusual arrangement as it has a bypass port. They have a history of running hot. https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+cbr1100xx+thermostat+replacement ..

this is a machine shop job, take the engine in

The electronic choke is failing and is in need of replacement. It is actually holding in a partially choked position.

Sounds like it. Are your plugs sooting up? Does it smell over-rich? Has fuel consumption got worse? First thing I would do is check the air filter. If it, or the air intake pipes are blocked or restricted then not enough air is getting in to form the correct air/fuel mixture. This means that even if the mixture setting is correct for normal running, the correct amount of fuel is being delivered but cannot combust efficiently with the reduced amount of air creating an over rich mixture. If all is as it should be then spray carb cleaner into the air intake (engine running, air filter out) in short bursts. The engine will stutter as the cleaner runs through the system so be prepared to blip the throttle to keep it running. When it runs smooth again, another burst of carb cleaner, blip until smooth again and repeat a few times. This will clean out the jets and deposits in the carb and may help. As you used the word motorway instead of highway, I am guessing you are in the UK and not US. In which case don't buy the cleaner from Halfords as motor factors are way way cheaper (£2 instead of a fiver a can). Good luck and let me know how you get on. Steve

I will agree with Brock,system just needs bled to actuate clutch properly.Use the means that Brock told you.

Remove the fuse from the fuse box, look into the slots, if its a spare fuse there is no brass coloured connector clips in the slot.

The hole is to allow for water to escape the enclosure rather than cause rusting of electrics and to allow for auxiliary light wiring, if it is not unsightly I would leave it open.

Wire could be off at trans swith.It happens.If neutral light won't come on sitting still and flipping through to find nuetral,could be the wire off or nuetrak switch bad.It's just a little ball and spring under the switch that drops into a slot on the roller plate on the shifter.If wire is connected at trans,unplug it and hook aligator clip of a test light to it and the point of testor on positive of battery.Find neutral,if test light doesn't light up,replace the switch.That's best way to find out.

The Fi light indicates that your Fuel injection system is working. If it's not working - the engine wouldn't run!
When I first started having the light come on it didn't seem to effect anything, it was only a couple of thousand miles later when the light would come on intermittantly and then the engine would cut out. I'd switch the ignition off and on again (while rolling) and it would run as if nothing wrong.

plates don't usaully go bad. diaphram springs and collars do

If it's coming from the overflow, try a new radiator cap first. They do get weak and won't hold the proper pressure. Be sure to check the pressure rating labled on the cap and replace it with one of equal rating. Good luck!

First thing to do, is contact the old owner and ask him if he had an issue with this, if so how often he had to top up the system, etc, when you returned from your trip, was the gurgling noise when you turned the key off , it is normal on a hotengine to hear this noise when the engine has stoped as the coolant system is under pressure, and the noise is the water forcing its way back to the resovior, if it is overheating the expanding water will eventualy push its way out through the overflow off the resovoir, when cold check coolant level in radiator and resovoir, if these are ok then, have you heard the fan come on? How far does the temp gauge go up, also 33000 miles is not high for a12 year old bike

Have you got it the right way around?

HI, FIRST THING TO CHECK IS, DOES THE BATTERY LOSES CHARGE WHEN IT IS DISCONECTED FROM THE BIKE, NOT THAT UNUSUAL TO HAVE A FAULTY BATTERY.
SECONDLY WHEN REPLACING THE BATTERY WITH THE KEY TURNED OFF DO YOU HAVE ANY SIGN OF DRAIN IN RESPECT OF A SPARK AT THE LEADS WHEN YOU TOUCH THE LIVE OR EARTH TO THE BATTERY POLE, THIS WOULD INDICATE A DRAIN

the problem is within the wiring system. there is a loom that gathers all wires which is used at time of manufacture to test that the bike has been wired properly. once tested the loom is capped and has no other usage. this loom is not depicted in the wiring diagram and over time it degrades and shorts out causing the FI light to come on. the fix is to cut it out. I went through this on my 99 Blackbird. I found this fix on the blackbird site posted by a fellow from Britain.

it can either be a worn tensioner or need for a valve adjustment. if you rev the engine and noise goes away, you need a new cam chain tensioner. if the noise remains or gets worse when you rev it up, you need a valve adjustment and should replac the tensioner anyway. 36,000 miles on the motor is definitely mileage for an adjustment if it's never had one.