Clutch cover seal

I been there it takes some doing but it will fit just kept trying you can do it

look on the front side of engine you should have a smaller one that looks like the rear seal. the big one u was talkin bout. its where the pulley is from crankshaft.

Adjust the clutch. To do this, follow the cable down until you come to a rubber bellows type cover. Slide the cover up or down to access the clutch cable adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inward all the way to get as much slack in the cable as possible.

Then. stand the bike as straight up as you can safely get it. Remove the derby cover. In the middle of the clutch assembly is the adjuster screw. Loosen the nut and turn the screw inward until you feel a resistance. DO NOT FORCE THE SCREW OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THE INNER CLUTCH HUB. Back the screw out and back in several times until you get the feel of what you're doing. Turn the screw inwards until you feel the resistance. Then back it back outwards 1/2 turn and lock the lock nut. Replace the derby cover.

Now, go back to the cable adjuster and turn the adjuster barrel outwards until you have about 1/8 inch of freeplay. Squeeze the clutch lever several times and recheck the freeplay. Lock the lock nut and replace the cover. This should do the trick. If not, repost and let me know and I'll tell you how to check the throwout bearing. This will require pulling the clutch release cover off the right side of the transmission where the clutch cable goes into the transmission.

Ride safe.
Steve

It is most likely a gasket. I'm guessing the clutch plates might have been replaced and the old gasket has been reused. It's common for them to tear when you take the clutch cover off and unless you are very careful and use some kind of sealant where the tears happen it can cause leaks later.

The best way to fix it is to take the clutch cover off and clean all of the old gasket from the clutch cover and the engine side also. You might need to scrape parts of it off with something sharp. Razor blades work well. Just be very careful not to scratch the sealing surface of the cover or the engine side. Then fit a new gasket. They usually aren't too expensive but it does vary from model to model.

I just spoke to customer service. I was told there is no replacement part for the heating element. They did offer me a discount on a new Foodsaver.

The waterpump on a chevy suburban can be removed once you remove the radiator fan.

1. Drain the coolant from the system.
2. Here is a way to remove the fan clutch withouy a fan clutch tool. The trick is to leave the belt on and tight.
3. Take a 1 7/16 inch wrench and put it behind the fan onto the big shaft nut attaching the fan to the water pump. P
4. ut it straight up and crack it counterclockwise with a hammer.
5. This should loosen the nut.
6. After that just spin the fan off and the rest is easy.
7. Make sure you clean the old seal off of the engine. It is small and easy to miss.
8. remove the serpentine belt.
9. remove the hoses connecting to the water pump
10. remove 4 bolts holding the water pump onto the block
11. clean the block of any old gasket
12. fit the new waterpump and new gasket.
13. connect the hoses to the pump.
14. refit the serpentine belt
15. refit the fan
16. refit the rad and cowling
17. fill it up with coolant.
18. Run the engine and check for leaks.

Remove the filter and either clean it with water and let it dry completely before installing. Or buy a new filter. Place it so that it fits firmly down at the botom. the try to clip on the cover snapping the hard clip down first. then the opposite side. then snap on the others. it may have bent a little. If it fits loose. try bending it into shape .

it sounds like your valve cover is bent, you may need to buy a new one, did you use any gasket sealer with the cork gsket? if not remove the valve cover and use gasket sealer..... Apply it driectly to the cork gasket...... if you did not use sealeant this is why it is leaking.

where it doesnt fully engage but I am having the opposite problem where I can not get my clutch to disengage. I have the top cable adjuster-adjusted so there is about a nickels (few mm) worth of play where i can pull the clutch lever that much before the cable really starts pulling. With it on the stand when i start it and put it in gear the wheel spins (enough that it is hard to stop the wheel and if i do the bike stalls) even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in and when riding it, the clutch doesnt actually seem to engage until the lever is almost all the way out. I adjusted the cable adjuster and unscrewed it as far as it can unscrew which was considerably further out then it is with the nickels worth of play and it changed nothing aside from the tightness of the lever/cable. On the stand the wheel still spins and stalls if i put enough force on it to stop the wheel and when riding the clutch still seems to engage and the same point (where the lever is almost all the way out). I think when I am on it and put it in gear, it doesnt stall becuase i keep the Rs up and my weight keeps the back tire from turning and slips the clutch?? Any comments, ideas, advice, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. ,well , the most obvious is a worn out clutch..BUT it can also be from the plates sticking together, or the springs are beyond their service limit. you can check and change all this at once.... 1) drain the oil 2) take off the clutch cover 3) loosen the screws that hold the pressure plate 4) check the springs (they should be a specific length , over time the length decreases) 5) take out pressure plate 6) check every plate , you can check thickness with a good caliper.( if the pads on the thick discs look worn or are not there the clutch is worn and you need a new set of plates) if they discs are still in good condition try cleaning them with a solvent like alcohol etc...but be carefull you do not use a aggressive solvent as the pads are made from cork and some solvents will damage the cork . If you change the pads the best thing to do is change the metal and the friction pads aswell as the springs. there's a trick to use a clutch that's worn down alot and that is to add another metal plate to the outside so your total stack height becomes higher , however this will only help you 1 or 2 heats after that the clutch is toast either way. hope thats FIXYA.,,,

the only way to fit door rubber to tub on a zanussi is to use washing up liquid it takes two mins