Cam chain tensioner shoe - 2002 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider

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First 2 things that come to mind, Cam tension chain and primary tension chain. Both use a plastic type tension-er so if it is older than 2007 year model they need to be inspected. The shoes on the tension-er may be bad. The plastic can get into the oil pump and do a lot of damage.

Hi, depending on engine fitted it is most likely the cam chain tensioner has collaped or failed. On a twin cam engine like a 1.8 t or a 32 valve V6 there is a chain driving a second chain in the rear of the cylinder head. These chains are tensioned by a oil pressure pressurized piston pushing on a bridge under the chain.

If it collapses, the chain/s become very loose and you will hear a loud clacking noise. It can also collapse due to low oil pressure.

VW is familiar with this problem and the repair involves first checking oil pressure, cold thro' warm. If it is around 85 to105 psi cold and 28 to 35 psi warm at idle, then this indicates tensioner piston is faulty or tensioner guide has broken off.

If oil presssure is good and engine is running synthetic oil...as it should ...then tensioneris suspect. I have also seen these engines with the screen under the tensioner partly blocked . If on removal of valve cover prooves tensioner has collapsed or guide shoe broken or warn then a new tensioner must be installed.

If oil pressure is too low at under 12 psi at warm idle then oil pump is worn and/or engine is worn. Also low oil pressure can be caused by fuel in the oil making it very thin.

If the screen under the tensioner is partly plugged up, then the oil pan must also be removed and cleaned out otherwise plugging will happen again.

To remove and install the tensioner a SST ( Special Service Tool.) is required to compresse the tensioner piston to allow it to be removed from under the cam chain and again compressing the new tensioner to be installed. Cams or chain do not need removing on this job.

Most import shops can handle this as long as they are equipped with the SST tensioner tool.

your most likely 180 out on crank shaft vaves are hitting piston

2.3L and 2.4L Engines Before attempting to remove the timing chain, read the entire procedure.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the timing chain front cover, as outlined earlier in this section.
3. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, as viewed from the front of engine/normal rotation, until the camshaft sprocket timing dowel pin holes line up with the holes in the timing chain housing. The crankshaft sprocket keyway should point upwards and line up with the centerline of the cylinder bores. This is the "timed'' position. Fig. 8: The chain must be in the "timed'' position - 2.3L and 2.4L engines
   Fig. 9: Remove the timing chain guides
   
   
4. Remove the timing chain guides.
5. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
6. Make sure all of the slack in the timing chain is above the tensioner assembly, then remove the tensioner. The timing chain must be disengaged from any wear grooves in the tensioner shoe in order to remove the shoe. Slide a suitable prytool under the timing chain while pulling the shoe outward. WARNING
   Do NOT attempt to pry the socket off the camshaft or damage to the sprocket or chain housing could occur.
   
7. If difficulty is encountered in removing the chain tensioner shoe, remove the intake camshaft sprocket, as follows;
   1. Carefully lower the vehicle.
   2. Hold the intake camshaft sprocket with a suitable tool and remove the sprocket bolt and washer.
   3. Remove the washer from the bolt and rethread the bolt back into the camshaft by hand. The bolt provides a surface to push against.
   4. Remove the camshaft sprocket using a three-jaw puller in the three relief holes in the sprocket.
8. Unfasten the tensioner assembly retaining bolts, then remove the tensioner. NOTE: The timing chain and crankshaft sprocket MUST be marked before removal. If the chain or sprocket is installed with the wear pattern in the opposite direction, noise and increased wear may occur.
   
9. Mark the crankshaft sprocket and timing chain outer surface for reassembly, then remove the chain.
10. Clean the old sealant off the bolt with a wire brush. Clean the threaded hole in the camshaft with a round nylon brush. Inspect the parts for wear and replace as necessary. Note that some scoring of the chain shoe and guides is normal. To install: WARNING
    Failure to follow this procedure may result in severe engine damage.
    
11. Position the intake camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft with the surface marked during removal showing.
12. Install the intake camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer, tighten to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) while holding the sprocket with a suitable tool. Use GM sealant 12345493 or equivalent on the camshaft sprocket bolt.
13. Place GM tool J 36008, or equivalent camshaft aligning pins, through the holes in the camshaft sprockets into the holes in the timing chain housing. This positions the cams for correct timing.
14. If the camshafts are out of position and must be rotated more than 1?8 turn in order to install the alignment dowel pins, proceed as follows:
    1. The crankshaft MUST be rotate 90°clockwise off of TDC in order to five the valves adequate clearance to open.
    2. Once the camshafts are in position and the dowels installed, rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise back to TDC. WARNING
       Do not rotate the crankshaft clockwise to TDC; valve or piston damage could result. NOTE: The side of the timing chain that was marked during removal must be showing when the chain is installed.
       
    
    
15. Place the timing chain over the exhaust camshaft sprockets, around the idler sprocket and around the camshaft sprocket.
16. Set the camshafts at the timed position and install the timing chain. Remove the alignment dowel pin from the intake camshaft. Using GM tool J 39579, rotate the intake camshaft sprocket counter clockwise enough to slide the timing chain over the intake camshaft sprocket. Release the camshaft sprocket wrench (J 39579 or equivalent). The length of the chain between the two camshaft sprockets will tighten. If properly timed, the intake camshaft alignment dowel pin should slide in easily. If the dowel pin does not fully index, the camshafts are NOT timed correctly and the procedure must be repeated.
17. Leave the alignment dowel pins installed. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
18. With the slack removed from the chain between the intake camshaft sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket, the timing marks on the crankshaft and cylinder block should be aligned. If the marks are not aligned, move the chain one tooth forward or rearward, remove the slack and recheck the marks. Fig. 10: Timing chain assembly retaining bolts - 2.3L and 2.4L engines
    
    
19. Reload the timing chain tensioner assembly to its "zero'' position as follows:
    1. Form a keeper from a piece of heavy gauge wire, as shown in the accompanying figure.
    2. Apply slight force on the tensioner blade to compress the plunger.
    3. Insert a small prytool into the reset access hole, and pry the ratchet pawl away from the ratchet teeth while forcing the plunger completely in the hole.
    4. Install the keeper between the access hole and the blade. Fig. 11: Reloading the tensioner to its "ZERO'' position, then install to the chain housing
       
    
    
20. Install the tensioner assembly to the timing chain housing. Recheck the plunger assembly installation, it is correctly installed when the long end is toward the crankshaft. Install the tensioner retaining bolts; tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
21. Carefully lower the vehicle enough to reach and remove the alignment dowel pins. WARNING
    Severe engine damage could result if the engine is not properly timed.
    
22. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise (normal rotation) two full rotations. Align the crankshaft keyway with the mark on the cylinder block and reinstall the alignment dowel pins. The pins will slide in easily if the engine is correctly timed.
23. Install the timing chain guides, then install the front (timing chain) cover.
24. Connect the negative battery cable.

Have you checked the tension on the primary chain lately? Take the oval shaped inspection cover off the the primary cover on the right side of the bike. Check the tension on the top run of the primary chain in the middle of the run. You should have between 5/8" (15.8mm) to 7/8" (19.0mm) with the engine COLD. To adjust loosen the nut that holds the primary chain shoe in place and raise the plate to tighten the chain, lower it to loosen. Since working through the inspection cover hole is tedious, some people elect to take the outer primary cover off and then set the tension. Refill the primay with 36 to 42 ounces of the appropiate oil. Harly uses H-D Syn3 20W50 synthetic engine oil in the primary.

If the noise seems to be coming from the right hand side of the engine, it could be the cam chain tensioner and shoe. To repair this requires going into the cam chest. This is something that I do not recommend for the amateur mechanic. There are also some special tools required to work in this area.

I hope this helps
Good Luck
Steve

You have a self adjusting cam chain tensioner. It is sold as an assembly. Take out the complete unit and replace it with a new one. The springs are not bad , the device that keeps the pressure on the tensioner is slipping causing a ticking sound.

when you got the chain on and the cam's timed and unloaded and locked the tensioner and installed the tensioner then the shoe guides did you unlock the tensioner before you turned it over
when you turn the engine over it will have a little bit of slack because it's only spring tension
double check the engine is timed correct don't worry about the colored links they only line up every 35 revolutions
if the crank and the cams are in time
you should be good
hope this helps

could be a few things.... check you primary chain tension, if thats not it check cam chain shoes and tension.and finally if that isnt it check your stator bolt.Mine came loose and it made noise untill it came out then it sounded like major problem at all rpm's.I was relieved to find out it was just the stator bolt.thought the bottom end let loose....Anyhow i hope one of these is the cure. You didnt say if it was comming from top or bottom... good luck!

For valve train noise try these:
1. Low oil pressure caused by oil feed pump not functioning
properly or oil passages obstructed.
2. Faulty hydraulic lifter(s).
3. Bent push rod(s).
4. Incorrect push rod length.
5. Rocker arm binding on shaft.
6. Valve sticking in guide.
7. Chain tensioning spring or shoe worn.
8. Cam(s), cam gear(s) or cam bushing(s) worn.
9. Cam timing incorrect.

If it is a bottom end knock, an engine tear down may be in order.