Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Question edited for clarity, full 'year make model'. My guess is a problem with the Mikuni Carburetors and a torn or damaged diaphragm. https://www.google.com/search?q=Mikuni+BSR36 https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Katana+750+cuts+out+closing+throttle+fast ..

Good possibility, You can check the out put voltage of the pickup coil. This has to be done with a "peak reading volt meter". There are some commercially available adaptors to insert in a standard volt meter for this check. With adapter installed, meter set to DC volts the reading across the leads from the pick up coil should be 3-7 volts at cranking speed. You should also confirm that you have battery voltage with the key & engine stop switch on at the cdi box as well as a good ground. I believe on a Suzuki this will be the orange/ white for battery voltage and the black will need to have contininity to ground. Also the orange/white at each coil should have battery voltage with key and engine stop switch on.

Add some sea foam in the gas tank. Leave in idle run for about 5 to 7 minutes. Then idle the rpms up and watch the white smoke choke out. Which will clean or attempt to clean the throttle body out

u have the mixture screw wound in to far. its normally located on the bottom of the carb. try winding it out half a turn at a time once the bike has warmed up. also turn the idle screw out a quarter of a turn at the time its in to far thats why it idles at low revs. the choke is needed to keep the air fuel mixture right thats why u are having to leave it on for so long. hope this helps.

I have an 89 Katana and don't know where the two vacuum lines on the top of the carbs go

Mentioned here. the standard is normally screw in lightly and back out 1 1/2 turns.

Carb air/fuel mix screws - KatRiders.com

https://katriders.com > forum > mechanics-101 > 48187...

Apr. 21, 2009 - Starting with carb #1, turn the mixture screw 1/4 turn at a time in or out till the bike idles the fastest. If the idle speed comes up a lot, turn it back ... 15 posts · Hi, i'm overhauling my carbs, and i noticed that someone in here said something about 1 and ... Air fuel mixture screws - KatRiders.com 15 posts Jan. 25, 2009 A/F screw adjustment - KatRiders.com 14 posts May 11, 2014 Pilot Screw settings - KatRiders.com 8 posts Feb. 19, 2015 Question Drilled Air Screw Plug on my '90 GSX600F ... 13 posts Jan. 26, 2017 More results from katriders.com Good video instruction here as well https://www.google.com/search?q=97+katana+750+carburetor+air%2Ffuel+adjustment ..

So on my 1997 Suzuki 750 katana lost power on the dash bike still runs but not sure if it’s a electrical problem

Sounds like your timing is too far retarded. Check it out or ask your local dealer to check it for you.

Rubber plug well seal is not properly positioned...dont mess with anything..I know katana. Properly position rubber water seal. Replace old plug wires with dielectric grease to help water proof...its not anything major katana are bulletproof!

hi sad news the gs/gsx engine is one of the more rebust engines ever designed with regular services and oil change i personally have witnessed one of these engines do 160k miles and was still going strong ahha this is a problem that no computer can diagnose and one for the real mechanic a real mechanic are rare breeds now and anybody can be a fitter so words of wisdom do not confuse the two ("there are so many fitters that claim to be mechanics") when all they have done is replace a like part right depending on where your knocking noise is coming from and what sort of noise it is tapping , knocking or rumble (tapping) could be cam or cam followers in need of adjustment or replacement but could also be piston slap a good mechanic would tell you what it was just by listening to the engine a (knocking) would be your big end bearings a (rumble) would be your main bearings either of these second two would mean a complete engine strip and crank overall and can be very costly unless you are in the position to do it yourself to do it yourself you would need the standard tools plus a workshop with a lathe, milling machine and bench press, you will need all of these tools so it may pay to buy a recon crank or a good second hand one if you feel like doing the engine strip or possibly a second hand engine the550 and 650 will also fit in your frame the 850 was a shafty and would need a lot of frame mods to get this engine in your frame you may squeeze a 1000 in the frame if your jack the front frame down tubes open a little bit of a clue look around collage or uni where they do auto engineering courses because when they ship these bikes in and on testing it does not work they will just replace the engine and wiring and give the engine to a collage or uni that engine has done zero milage and has just been stripped down and rebuilt good luck let me know how you get on if you need a complete workshop manual here is a free download place i have looked and they have one for your bike Free Suzuki Motorcycle Service Manuals for download

take it to a mechanic mate.

You will need to remove the float bowl. Some carburators will have a carbon coated plastic float, if the coating gets scratched, the float will sink, causing your problem. If it's a hollow metallic float, it can get a hole in it, and sink. If the float is good, then the rubber seal that the float pushes up when the float bowl starts to fill with gas is leaking. This can be caused by debris between the valve seat and the valve, or the rubber is cracked or hardened. In any case, usually there is 4 screws on the rounded bottom of the carburators, remove them and you will see the float. If it doesn't float in a bowl of gasoline, it needs repaired or replaced. If the small rubber seal the float moves is cracked or deformed, it needs replaced. There may just be a tiny bit of debris between the float valve and the seat that needs removed. Good luck. None of this is very expensive.

Change your coil

Hello, I'd check for a short along the wire to the frame. Also, it's rare that the starter solenoid could be shorted. Use a multimeter on ohms to ring out the wire(s) that activate the solenoid. There should be low resistance for the solenoid, but it should not be zero or .1 ohms.

0.35

i dont know exactly how much oil you need, when you put oil in your motorbike you can see a small window glass( right side) on your engine. just put oil up to middle of it.

Does this motorcycle have a radiator if so, make sure it's full if it is go online and see if there's a sensor that shuts the bike down when it gets too hot. Maybe there's something wrong with that

compresion tsest could be a slightly bent valve, or valve too tight, inlet side.

.Fuel tank empty. . Fuel cap or fuel tank not venting properly. . Fuel filter clogged with rust or dirt. . Fuel valve not in the on or reserve position. . Vacuum line to fuel valve cracked, broken, pinched, or missing. . Fuel valve/petcock clogged or diaphragm cracked, cut or torn. . Fuel line from the fuel valve to the carburetor or fuel pump clogged, cracked, pinched, bent, broken, or missing. . Fuel pump not working. . Fuel line touching cylinder or head causing fuel to boil and vapor lock, repair by rerouting and wrapping line with convoluted tubing. . Carburetor inlet clogged. . Carburetor float or needle and seat stuck. . Carburetor not venting properly overflow line or bowl fitting clogged, pinched, or bent.

COULD BE A SMALL KNOB IN MIDDLE OF CARBS, A BIT CLOSE AND TIGHT.