20 Most Recent 1989 Yamaha XV 535 Virago DX - Page 5 Questions & Answers

make sure there is no high point in the brake line and the master cylnder end bolt points down. some times need to turn the handle bars or lean the bike, and occasionally remove the master cylnder off the bars to get fall all the way to the wheel caliper, and keep bleeding

youtube is great source for that...  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zheHGmW9VYU

what bike? what year? without anymore information, i would start by checking the fuel screw at the bottom of the carb....if this is a yz you'll want to close the screw all the and then back the screw out 2 full turns, or it could be the excel pump....when you took the carb apart, you didnt loosen the ssrew that holds the TPS on the side of the carb did you.....because then you have a throttle position sencor problem. but, i need more info...what was done, or changed when you rebuilt the carb.....im sure it is something minor

The bike is 21 years old. Parts are getting harder and harder to find. Finding a good mechanic willing to mess with it is pretty hard also. I wouldn't pay more than $400 for it and that is only if it starts and runs well AND if the transmission shifts smoothly and the clutch and brakes operate properly. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

It usally pays to count the turns in before you remove them, but you probably know that by now.
Try them at around 2 turns out, and see how smooth the idle is. and try them a quarter of a turn in and out and listen to the difference. if you get a couple of vacumn gauges, they can help and then set the syncronization between the two carbs.
If you do try this and it may take a while, get an industrial fan to cool the engine as you do it, cause as the engine warms the mixture changes.
The pilot screws and carb sync have their biggest effect at idle.
You can also adjust the pilot mixture one cylnder at a time, by removing a plug lead, put another plug in the cap and short it to the frame, so it wont damage the coil,
and adjust the mixture as if its a 550 single then do the other cylnder

Most Yamaha turn signals are supposed to spring back to center and stay flashing till you press in on the swiitch
Some models also have self cancelling signals that shuf off after the bike travels so many feet.

Possibly your switch is simply gummed up.....key off, spray some WD40 into switch and work it left to right back and forth and press it in and out....if its now moving freely, try the key again and see if its better.

Under the head light, a behind a yamaha name plate

Some Viragos used a vacuum operated fuel petcock that allowed the fuel supply to open when the bike started and shut off when it stopped. There was a vacuum line from the intake to the petcock and this vacuum acted on a diaphram to open the fuel.
Sometimes the diaphram leaks and the intake vacuum pulls in fuel....causing a very rich mixture.
If you find it has a vacuum operated petcock, you could remove vacuum line and briefly open the
petcock manually using the PRI for prime position to see if fuel leaks out the vacuum port.
There are rebuild kits for the vacuum operated petcock

I believe theres 2 small bolts under front of seat...if you pull the cushion back you should see them. Remove the 2 bolts and the front of the seat can lift up....then slide the seat forward as there is a plastic tab that holds the rear of the seat into a slot. The seat should lift off once the tab is clear.

Have you checked the filter fitted to the reserve tube inside the tank

Make sure that the battery terminals are clean and that they are tight. Try a boost start and see if that helps. If it does your battery is not delivering its full output. If the starter still turns slow it probably needs an overhaul, bushes, brushes and lubrication etc.

If you change the filter it is 2.8 liters.
If you dont change the filter it is 2.6 liters

Hi there and welcome to fixya,

YOu'll need to remove the fuel valve underneath the tank. That's the surest way to drain the fuel inside. Another option is to drain it by switching the fuel selector to "res" or reserve so fuel will drain lower (the reserve part).

Hope this helps,
levibit

The flow control valve must be removed ( fitted to the tank)so that the fuel flows out to empty.
Other wise the other option is to have the tank taken out and drained.

If it has set for 2 years, you did the right thing by draining the old gas, and you would be smart to
change fuel filters as well. if you can pull your spark plugs and clean real good , better yet just
replace them, so you will not have to wonder . have While you have everything apart look at your
plug wires, bend them and look to see if you see small cracks in the boot or wires, is so replace
being that it is an 1985 your coil could be weak , but take your spark plug put back in the wire
and rest the other end of the plug up against the head and turn your motor over a few times looking
at the end of the plug you should be seeing a good blue spark, if not replace it. look at carbs to
see if everything looks free of rust and any vacum lines have cracks, if so replace. put 1 bottle
of heet in your gas tank and then use your new gas, spray carbs with WD-40 put everything back
together and crank it up. You will be very proud of your self. Good luck

Use any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings . Do not use any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If you use Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift easier.

You have to test all the electronics on the bike to figure out if you have a bad CDI box. A CDI box can test good and still be bad. Your problem sounds more like a bad spark plug cap. Unscrew the cap from the end of the wire and take an OHM reading on the cap. If it is higher or lower than 5000 OHMs replace the cap . A plug cap from NGK runs about $5. Replace them both for about $10 it should take care of the problem.

No freebies here, but you can do a quick search and find some good service manuals from www.midwestmanuals.com for about $8. A good deal considering the paper versions can run $30+.

Hi and welcome to the site,

Have you tried here?

Good luck and thank you for asking.

10W-40, 20W-40, 20W-50 JASO MA certified motor oil. Do not use any oil that is ENERGY CONSERVING it will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission. Use the lighter oil in spring and fall . Use the heavier oil for long trips and hot summer driving.