The 2.3L 4ZD1 enigne, 4 cylinder? in USA?
or these.
the GEN 2 USA line up was...
3.2 L 6VD1 SOHC V6
3.2 L 6VD1 DOHC V6
3.5 L 6VE1 DOHC V6
3.0 L 4JX1 TD I4
3.1 L 4JG2 TD I4
???? seems there is no 2.3L... why is that?
did you mean 6VD1??????? a V6 engine????????? not the 4 banger>????
in 1992 they offered
"with an available 3.2 L dual overhead cam (DOHC) version"
my guess you did a shade tree, rail dribble test?
its 90% useless that, if dry, the pump is dead.sure,, end story. but.
but if it dribbles. that proves NOTHING, with EFI !
only full pressure works on EFI, not 1 PSI.
it's not a carb, carbs even work with gravity feed (motorcycles)
check for fuel pressure cranking, if not in spec, cure that first.
as poster said, use test fuel. (a classic engine test for 100+ years)
if it runs and sounds perfect for 3 seconds on test fuel, then you lost fueling, if not, then you have a bad engine or lost spark.
if spark is good, and timed right , then then engine is bad.
what makes and engine bad, #1 is never changing out the cam belt.
the all time #1 reason to cause horrid low compression and timing totally wrong. (spark time will be way off if cam slips , a TOP EASY check clue that....)
i check spark timing first. (takes me like 2 min flat)
if way off, i check compression next. on the most easy cylinder
oops its half normal. of 150psi.. oops cam belt slipped.
this can take me like 15min work. on zero maintenance cars.
did the car run in the last month as a daily driver?
or sat for 3 years, and today is "Awakening day"
hummmmmm??
use real engine names, real Isuzu engine names
and get 10x better answers..
seem if in USA, you transposed the displacement spec.
2.3 versus 3.2? am I right?
how many cylinders, post that !
the 1992 has no scan tools sold
we only have flash codes in 1992.but
but yes, do that.... ask how. if you dont know where the jumper pins are for diagnostics...
Cranks over but will not start. (answered like 100 times now....)
Mr. Otto Cycle engines,.... (spark/gasoline/petrol)
1: Fuses good?, all EFI and spark fuses????? MUST BE GOOD (test them)
2: Check engine lamp glows key on, ? if not? see #1
3: I crank engine, it cranks fast. but do you have spark on all cylinders.
4: is spark timed right, not 25 degree's retarded, if retarded illegally, that is the cam belt slipped.
(5 min with a timing light and wow, the bad ignored belt, is discovered)
The cam belt is a 60k miles service, point on most cars. (with belts) so.....
5: I find spark is dead on all cylinders.
I then use a scan tool cranking and see P03xx DTC errors. P340s or P355s cam/crank sensor dead.
or if pre-1996 cars in USA, we use the 2 cent paper clip, diagnostic jumper wire test for same facts.
6: spark is good on all, now.... note my order here???? not gue$$ing, just testing,,,,,,
so we then use test fuel now.
watch Scotty do this here.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8...
does it run on test fuel.? (spark was good)
NO. bad engine. check compression, 150psi min. times all cylinders, not just one.
YES? then you lost fueling.
check fuel pressure next. it must be in SPEC range, as this is NO CARB car. it's EFI."pressures matter big time"
I'll not do fueling now, that is 10 pages of text, or read a ASE book on topic.
I now paste this for all no starts.
Fueling: (step 1 only)
got 12vdc to the pump cranking?
do you? you need to crank it to prove pump is dead... on 1/2 cars made.
we do all that way so that we don't get confused or wonder how EFI logic works.
"programming varies by that in the ECU"
the ECU will cut fuel for 3 reasons, inputs dead..(for fuel/fire safety laws)
end.
50 reasons, even a blown fuse.
nostarts are 50 reasons, we can toss a coil all day, and miss.... really
do you want to gue$$ or do the simple tests, or replace 50 parts.....
really guessing is for the rich or the desperate. no? it like 1 to 10 tests.
to prove the laws of physics that are upset. we never guess. (after the 60k mile tuneup you skipped is completed)
most cars this old are never serviced, you need to know that...
if confused post a photo of your engine. so we can ID it.
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I would be looking for any trouble codes. He's right, the cam sensor or crank sensor could be bad. See if starting fluid works.
Spray carb cleaner on the intake while trying to start it ... also can be a cam shaft or crank shaft sensor
Tried spraying carb cleaner in the intake and it didn't work. Will try sensor next. Thanks.
I WOULD DEFINITLY PLUG IN A OBD READER TO DEF GET A CODE BEFORE YOU BUY THE SENSOR.. ONCE YOU GET THE CODE YOU WILL DEF KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS.
The only code we get is 12
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