I didn't note the amount of tension placed on the tensioner before removing the timing belt tensioner on my 2000 Nissan Frontier 3.3 v6.

You really need to invest ($20 or so) in a repair manual for your Frontier. Go to your local parts store and find a Haynes, Chilton, or other repair manual. It will give you all this information, plus tips on how to do any repair quickly and with the right tools.

Thank you for the inquiry.




Disconnect the negative (black) cable from the battery.

Remove all accessories that are in the way of the timing belt cover. The Intrepid's 3.5 liter engine and small engine bay make for very cramped working conditions; it is thus necessary to remove all engine accessories so that you can properly work on the timing belt. Begin by loosening the tension bolt on the alternator with a belt tensioner, then use a socket wrench to remove the bolts on the water pump, air condition compressor and power steering pump.

Remove the four bolts on the top timing belt cover, using a socket wrench, then remove the cover.

Use a jack to lift the front end of the Intrepid and place the front end securely on two jack stands. Get underneath the engine.

Remove the three bolts on the bottom timing belt cover, using a socket wrench, then remove the cover.

Use the belt tensioner to put some slack into the timing belt, then remove the belt from the pulleys with your hands.

Line up the pulleys, so that the engine is at the top dead center and the two marks on the camshaft are lined up with the marks on the cams.

Place the new timing belt over the pulleys, making sure not to move any of the pulleys in either direction.

Use the tensioner to tighten the belt.

Reattach the top and bottom timing belt covers and secure them in place, using the bolts you had removed earlier.

Reattach all of the accessories you have removed (in any order), using a socket wrench. When done, place the belts over the pulleys and return tension to them by using the belt tensioner to tighten the tension bolt on the alternator.

Attach the negative (black) battery cable to the battery.

Timing belt

The following steps need to be taken to remove the pump.

1. Remove the ribbed belt. Compress the tensioner and remove the belt. Remove the ribbed belt tensioner.

2. Remove the upper timing belt cover.

3. Align your timing belt marks. The following pictures are for the cam timing mark, the flywheel timing mark for an automatic, flywheel timing for a manual and the marks on the harmonic balancer.

4. loosen the timing belt. There is a 13mm head nut that keeps the tensioner in place. Loosen this nut and turn the tensioner clockwise to get come slack in the belt. You are going to need a tool to get tension back on the belt. I use the tool pictured (picture of how to tension the belt) but know of people using snap ring pliers to rotate the tensioner.

5. Slip the timing belt off of the cam drive sprocket and off of the water pump.

6. Remove the water pump retaining bolts pictured and remove the water pump. The pump can often be stuck in place. A screwdriver carefully used can help in getting the pump

7. Moisten the o-ring with coolant before installing the new pump. Install the new pump.

8. Install the belt and tension as shown in the picture attached above. Turn the engine over by hand through a full revolution of the cam gear. Re-check the timing marks. The marks will often be off, don't be discouraged by this, it happens to everyone. If the marks are off loosen the belt and slip it the amount of teeth needed to align the marks.

9. Install the items taken off during the removal of the pump, fill the system with coolant and start the engine. The system will pretty much bleed itself out as it reaches operating temperature.

If your timing belt breaks some of the valves will stay open and the pistons will come up and either break the valve or could put a hole in a piston. This is very costly. The rattle could be the belt tensioner

hi, here is a guide i have come across on this site written by another expert it should be the one for your engine but always double check.

If you are unsure what you are doing then please go out and buy a haines workshop manual as these tell you every detail you need to know so that would be your best solution.

Please dont do this work if your unsure what you are doing as you could damage the engine beyond repair so you have been warned;

it covers single cam and if you scroll down it shows double cam ok

Sep 14, 2009 - VW Passat & Audi A4 1990-2000 Repair Guide
Timing Belt - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2.8L SOHC (AFC) V6 Engine

1. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Place the (hood) lock carrier in the service position. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Body And Trim, Service Position, Front Bumper, Hood Lock Carrier.
3. Remove the engine accessory drive belt. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): General Information And Maintenance, Routing Maintenance And Tune-up.
4. Turn the engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for cylinder No. 1.

NOTE The large holes in the camshaft sprocket lock plates should be on the inside facing one another.

1. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor from the lower left side of the engine block. Make sure the engine is at TDC and install the threaded crankshaft holding pin Tool No. 3242 and lightly tighten.
2. Remove the upper timing belt covers, the crankshaft vibration damper and then the lower timing belt cover.
3. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts slightly and use a suitable pulley to release the sprockets from the tapered ends of the camshafts.
4. Loosen the tensioner roller and remove the drive belt.

To install :

1. Install the timing belt over the sprockets, then the idler rollers and lastly over the tensioner.
2. Install camshaft alignment tool holder Tool No. 3243 into the camshaft alignment flanges.
3. Check and adjust the cam belt tension such that the upper left portion of the belt between the tensioner and the left cam gear can just be twisted 90° ( 1 / 4 turn).
4. Tighten the cam belt tensioning roller to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm), and the camshaft sprocket bolts.
5. The balance of the installation is in reverse order of removal.

2.8L DOHC 5V (AHA) V6 Engine

1. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Place the (hood) lock carrier in the service position. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Body And Trim, Service Position, Front Bumper, Hood Lock Carrier.
3. Remove the engine accessory drive belt. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): General Information And Maintenance, Routing Maintenance And Tune-up.
4. Turn the engine by hand to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for cylinder No. 1.

NOTE The large holes in the camshaft sprocket lock plates should be on the inside facing one another.

1. On the cylinder block near the crankshaft, remove the sealing plug from the lower left side of the engine block. Make sure the engine is at TDC and install the threaded crankshaft holding pin Tool No. 3242 and lightly tighten.
2. Remove the upper timing belt covers, the crankshaft vibration damper and then the lower timing belt cover.
3. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts slightly and use a suitable pulley to release the sprockets from the tapered ends of the camshafts.
4. Using a 8mm Allen® wrench, rotate the timing belt tensioner roller clockwise until the tensioner is compressed; then, insert a 2mm spring pin through the tensioner housing and tensioner plunger to secure it in place. When the plunger is secure, release the wrench tension.
5. Remove the damper-to-crankshaft bolts and the damper.

NOTE It is not necessary to remove the center bolt when removing the crankshaft damper.

1. Remove the serpentine belt idler and the crankshaft damper guard.
2. Mark the running direction of the timing belt and remove it from the pulleys.

Fig. Crankshaft pulley alignment location for TDC-Audi 2.8L V6 engines




Fig. Left camshaft sprocket alignment position for TDC; right camshaft position is similar-Audi 2.8L V6 engines




Fig. View of crankshaft holding tool installed-Audi 2.8L V6 engines




Fig. View of camshaft locator bar installed-Audi 2.8L V6 engines


To install:

1. Make sure that the camshaft pulleys and the crankshaft pulley are in alignment with TDC of the No. 1 cylinder's compression stroke.
2. Install the timing belt; make sure the timing belt is installed in the correct running direction from which it was removed.
3. Using a 8mm Allen® wrench, rotate the timing belt tensioner roller clockwise until the tensioner is compressed; then, remove the 2mm spring pin from the tensioner housing. Slowly, release the tensioner spring pressure to put pressure on the timing belt.
4. Install the crankshaft damper guard and the serpentine belt idler pulley; torque the idler pulley bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
5. Install the crankshaft damper and torque the damper-to-crankshaft bolts to 15 ft. lbs. If the damper-to-crankshaft center bolt was removed, torque it to 147 ft. lbs. (200 Nm) plus 180° 1 / 2 turn).
6. Remove the Crankshaft Holder tool No. 3242 and install the sealing plug.
7. Replace the remaining components by reversing the removal procedures.
8. Refill the cooling system and the automatic transaxle. Connect the electrical connectors. Install the negative battery cable last.
9. Test drive the vehicle.

you can use belt tool or 3/8 long arm ratched place your tool on tensioner (on pulley side has housing to place your tool in , tensioner between alternator and ps pump one bolt arm and plastic pulley on it stand front of the vehicle and push your tool to firewall to relase the belt tensioner and use other hand and remove belt from the alternator then easly let the tensioner go and remember place the new belt on all the pulleys and leave alternator pulley on last place) front of steering pump reservoir have label that shows the belt assembly make sure new belt in correct position on all the pulleys and push the tensioner and place to belt on correct position and make it tight. before start to vehicle fallow the all belt for make sure no missing pulley and belt is placed straight on all the pulleys no missing lines.

They are under the hood or on the front crossmember.

Regards,
matt

Tell you what... No response, then I can't help. If you're talking about the accessory drive belt tensioner pully, there are two 12mm bolts which mount it to the engine. You'll need a 3/8's drive ratchet (or other 3/8's drive device) to release the tension so you can remove the accy drive belt to facilitate removal of the tensioner pully. Once you're remove the accy drive belt, remove the two (2) 12mm bolts holding the tensioner pully to the engine (make visual note of position/direction of the drive belt when you do this because you'll need to position the drive belt in the same orientation when you install a new auto-tensioner in place of the old one.).

Squeal belts usually mean not enough tension. I have had problem with persistance squeling in the past, the problem turn out to be cheap aftermarket belt that keep stretching and wouldn't maintain proper tension, putting brake fluid or any kind of oily liquid on your belt will make it worst not better.