SOURCE: secondary air injection pump location
under the radiator on the passenger side of the truck. There is a little splash guard you will need to remove to see it, The guard is held in with 4 15mm headed bolts, then you will be able to see the bottom of the air pump.
SOURCE: 2000 chev s 10, v6, 4wd, wont go above 40 mph. had
Had the same problem with my 1999 Blazer (S10) a baffle broke loose in the catalytic converter causing exhaust blockage while accelerating. When idling or driving slowly the baffle did not shift enough to cause a problem. Replaced the catalytic converter from Pep Boys (direct fit) for about $150. Had to get the gaskets at NAPA though. Runs like a top now. Hope this helps. PS: sell the catalytic converter to a recycling place. Good for a few bucks due to the platinum in the converter.
SOURCE: secondary air injection system
This is a pump that sits underneath your front bumper on the passenger
side. It is about the size of a baseball and has two hoses going into
it. I would suggest you replace it yourself as it would cost you about
$360.00 if you were to go through the dealer.
Water intrusion is what will typically kill these electric pumps. There
is a Technical service bulletin (#04-06-04-015) Regarding this problem,
according to the tsb, you will need a new pump and there is a hose
assy. #12590627) that has you reroute the pump from future water
intrusion or it is guaranteed to fail again.
Although I have had water in the pump I did not see any indication of
the inlet hose as the cause. It was suggested that the one way metal
check valves ($15.00) that mount to the rt & lt exhaust manifold
are worn and allow water from the exhaust to get sucked back into the
pump. I first replaced the pump and within a week of dry weather
driving the light came back on. I checked the pump and it was again
full of water. I just replaced the valves which had deteriorated on the
inside. So hopefully this will eliminate the problem. Note - The valves
are impossible to remove without removing the 1/2 tubes (held on with 2
nuts) they are attached to the manifold with. The valve threads seize
to the tube thread and had to be clamped in a vise to remove - I
actually had to hacksaw the valve section to get it off the pipe.
Careful as not to damage the threads.
Good luck and try autopartsdirect2you for a new pump and it has life time warranty.
TSB #04-06-04-015 - (Mar 22, 2004)
Condition
Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated.
Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that
there is a concern in the secondary air injection system.
Cause
Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump.
Correction
Replace the AIR pump and install a new inlet hose and solenoid tube assembly using the following procedure:
Prep vehicle.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove shield covering AIR pump.
Remove hose and vacuum lines from pump and solenoid.
Remove AIR pump inlet hose. Do not re-use.
Disconnect electrical connectors from pump and solenoid.
Remove pump mounting bolts and pump.
Transfer isolators from the old pump to the new pump.
Install new AIR pump and bolts to vehicle.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 17N·m (12.5 lb ft)
Route new hose assembly up between engine and fender. It should come up
near the area between the battery and the coolant bottle.
Connect new inlet hose to pump inlet.
Connect old outlet hose to pump outlet.
Connect electrical connector to pump.
Connect electrical connector for solenoid to connector on the new hose assembly.
Connect the hose with the white nipple to the vacuum source hose.
Connect the remaining hose to the shut off valve.
Install shield covering AIR pump.
Lower vehicle.
Remove coolant reservoir nut nearest the battery.
Route new hose assembly between the battery and the coolant reservoir with the solenoid on top.
Install the solenoid bracket onto the coolant reservoir stud and reinstall the nut back into the vehicle.
Use a wire tie to keep the new hose assembly away from the engine. On
four cylinder engines, tie to the AIR outlet hose. On six cylinder
engines, tie to an available hole in the radiator fan shroud.
12590627 Hose Assembly - Secondary Air Injection
12568324 Pump, Secondary Air Injection for 2001 L35 + 2000-2003 L43/LN2
12560095 Pump, Secondary Air Injection for 1999-2000 L35
Hope that helps
SOURCE: where is the radiator drain on a 1996 buick reagl
It will be on the bottom corner of the rad on the side facing the motor. Look for a plastic peice that sticks out and looks like either bolt head or a wing nut, there will be a little down spout with it
SOURCE: need to replace secondary air
Hi, do you hear the air pump run when you start the car? No? Check the A.I.R. pump fuse in the under hood fusebox. if it is blown then you probably need a new air pump motor. If the fuse is not blown then the relay could be the culprit. if you can hear the pump running when you start it the engine then you probably just have some wiring issues from the relay to the ecm it can still work ok but fail the resistance test that the computer runs randomly..
The best you can do is to replace the air pump......
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