Brakes don't open up brakes lock pads stay against

When you step on the brakes, the pads vibrate. It may be you didn't put the little gaskets, or anti-squall stuff on the BACK of the pads.
If your "kit" didn't include it, get some copper lube and apply to the back of the pads.
I know, means you have to pull the pads but it's either that or live with the noise.
Have fun:
Rick

sounds like a faulty master cylinder. be careful driving it....
replacement/rebuilt parts are relatively inexpensive.
If you don't know how to bleed brakes, get a mechanic to replace it.

Is the anti-lock brake light on (if you have ABS)? If so, that needs diagnosing by a good shop.
If you don't have it, or if the light is not on, you need to pull the wheel off and investigate. Is this the front brakes or the rear? If it's the rear, your emergency brake might be too tight, and needs adjustment. If it's the front brakes, you may have a caliper siezed up, and not retracting-the caliper is what pushes the brake pads against the rotor for braking. Spin or turn the wheel around (with car in neutral). The brake pads should be just enough away from the rotor to allow free turning. If it's tight you probably need the caliper replaced or repaired.
Thanks for using FixYa, and good luck.

Have the front wheel bearings checked they are a sealed unit that has to be pressed in or assembly removed and replaced. Or your brakes are dragging and rubbing against the rotor it could be the caliper is sticking or the rotor doesn't have enough wave, warp cut in it to push the pads back enough. Most people think a rotor is cut perfectly flat if this was true the pads would rub against the rotor all the time. The car could be jacked up and on stands and have someone listen for the noise right next to the wheel while you speed up the wheels and slow down with the brakes and don't try for 100mph you could hurt the tires

You will need to bleed the brake system. I would start with the rear brakes lines and work towards the front.You must have key off engine off when bleeding brakes, apply pressure on brake pedal 10 times and hold. The brake line is now ready to be open. Open and let the stream of fluid come out and close the line tight. Then release brake pedal once bleeder screw is close. This procedure must be repeated twice front and back. After, brakes have been bleed pump the brake pedal before putting in drive.
Note: Don't let the resevoir run low on brake fluid. This will cause air bubbles to accumulate on the brake system. Always top off before opening bleeder screw.

the work should be rechecked to make sure nothing is siezed and check the rear brakes to see what is causing them to lock up.if the smell is coming from the front then you could have a caliper that has siezed after the brakes were replaced.this does happen from time to time and there is not a usual way to know before they sieze until its driven unless when pushing the pistons back you notice they are hard to push back.

Disc brakes usually include a part called a wear indicator. A wear indicator is a small piece of metal attached to the brake pad that contacts the brake rotor when the pad material has been worn down to a certain level. When the wear indicator grinds against the rotor, it makes a squealing noise as you apply the brakes. This noise is a signal which tells you it's time to have your brakes examined.
In other words, noisy brakes aren't something to mess around with. If you hear that sound when you apply the brakes in your vehicle, have them checked out as soon as possible.
I hope this helps.

air in the system wont make the brakes grind,you have done some thing wrong there.

Front brakes are very simple to do:

• Pull off the front tires.
• Remove the brake pads by removing the slide pin bolts where the piston assembly attaches to the caliper mounting bracket. The slide pin bolts are usually a 12 or 14mm bolt. Once the piston assembly is free slide the old brake pads out.
• Compress the piston back into the caliper by using a large pair of channel lock pliers or a c-clamp. If you don't do this, you won't be able to get the new pads on.
• Before you put the new pads on, replace the rotor.
• Remove the two bolts for the caliper mounting bracket. They are in the back and are bigger than the slide pin bolts. Usually a 17 or 19mm bolt.
• Pull off the caliper mounting bracket.
• At this point the old rotor should slide right off. If it doesn't slide right off, look for a screw in the center of the rotor, some cars will have a screw there to hold the rotor on. If there's no screw and it still won't come off, try tapping it with a hammer. If you're replacing the rotor, don't be shy.
• Put the new rotor on. Make sure to clean off any grease with brake cleaner that may be on the braking surface from packaging.
• Put the caliper mounting bracket back on.
• Put the new brake pads on. Make sure to use some anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads.
• Put the caliper assembly back on with the slide pins. Grease up the slide pins as well.
• Put the wheels back on.
• Make sure to pump your brakes 10 - 15 times before you drive off. Because you compressed the piston back into the caliper, the piston will not be contacting the brake pads unless you pump the brakes.

Good Luck!
~Brandon

Not wanting to be too general but at least trying to help I would suggest looking under the back end, and specifically at the rear backing plates and to the insides of the rear wheels, to see if you notice any fluids dripping. If these are drum brakes, then you could very well have either a wheel cylinder leaking brake fluid, causing the brake shoe linings to swell up, or it could be a leaking axle seal, allowing differential gear lube out, which will also cause the linings to swell, and minor braking will cause that particular side to lock up.
If this vehicle has rear disk brakes, or was just recently changed from rear drum brakes to rear disk brakes, it is possible that the proportioning valve in the brake line was not changed to match with the disk setup.
Drum brakes operate at approximately ten pounds per square inch pressure (10 PSI) whereas disk units operate at a lower pressure of about 2 PSI.
Just some things to look at. Some brake fluids have no smell, others are very distinctive in odor, and differential gear lube has a very distinct odor...not hard to miss once you've smelled it.