I am fitting a towbar and was wondering what type of drill and bit is used to drill holes through the chassis as it is very restricted for space?

Hi Karen First off are you sure these issues were not there before tow bar was fitted? I am going to assume your answer is yes they were not there. There could be many areas where the fault may have occurred. We will start with the easy areas (1) check ALL fuses that you can find replace as necessary, you may have shorted out a fuse. Does a fuse blow again if yes you have a short to ground. This could be a pinched wire when fitting tow bar, it could also be a wire connection that has been incorrectly fitted to the wrong terminal. Has any holes been drilled into the floor pan or chassis rails is there any wires close by that may have been damaged when drilling. Has any screws been fitted into floor or chassis. If screws have been fitted into floor remove them and try again.
(2) disconnect Battery and leave for 15 minutes reconnect and try again.
(3) if on the first check all fuses are ok, go to number (2).
If the above does not help contact an auto electrician to come and have a look as other damage may have occurred. This fault has occurred whilst fitting or testing tow bar so the fault must be due to installation so in theory if everything was removed it should rectify the fault. Good luck.

no easy fix for diy people or for qualified mechanics either
there are a variety of "eazy out" tools that can be used depending on accessibility to the broken fitting
probably the best is a fluted type that is hammered into the fitting and then used in conjunction with a spanner may get it out
the left hand tapered type generally expand the brass into the hole making it more difficult to turn but it is an option
if there is space you can buy a left hand drill bit ( available from specialist tool shops )( as opposed to a standard drill bit that cuts in the clockwise direction) that you use with the drill in a reverse direction and this tends to unwind the broken part out as it is drilling

kia sportage parking sensor - ABMforum.com

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kia sportage parking sensor installing rear parking sensors fitting rear parking sensor strip ... the pre-drill hole on 07 sportage 2007 kia sportage lx navigation wiringparking sensors. ... I cannot see any fuse which may relate to them. ... with their rear parking sensors Even if all is clear behind I now get a continuous beep and ...

Urgent help needed - towbar electrics - Kia Forum

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Aug 28, 2011 - 10 posts - ‎3 authors
I'm in the middle of fitting a genuine Kia towbar (made by Witter) to my SW. ... Need help again - Does anyone know the location of the PDC Control unit (parking sensors)? ... Drives: Kia Ceed SW 1.6 MT LX A8 ... with the loom which connects to the fuse box does not seem to attach to the rear lighting loom.

[PDF]2007 Sedona Owner's Manual - Kia Canada

there all the same unless u have pre drilled holes under the car,which means u can use the deals fiting kit

You have to drill the remainder of the bolt out of the hole. Start by taking a center punch and punch the dead center of the piece stuck in the hole, then take a small drill bit and get to work on the punch hole. Use a little wd40 on the bit to keep it from overheating and go about half speed on the drill (time consuming prosses). After you drilled deep enough grab the next size bit and continue to do this until you can fit a good size extracter in the hole to pull it out. If you do not have an extracter then continue to drill untill the bolt is completly out then retap new treads and find an oversized bolt.

Towbars are fairly simple, if the towbar fits the frame, you are all set, if it doesn't, you have the wrong one. If there are holes that line up, use them, if not, you can drill through the frame very easily, it is soft steel, Put some bolts in there that go through about 1/2 longer than the frame parts. Support the towbar with a jack, make sure it stays put. Drill a small pilot hole first with about 1/4 inch bit, then go to the hole size of the towbar, 1/2 inch. Those step bits work great, put in the bolts, tighten them up, all set. As far as positioning this thing, I would make the ball stick out just past the bumper, if no hole line up. You don't want to be smashing the trailer into the bumper all the time, so make sure it is enough, but not so much that you trip over it. Hope this helps.

the mounting holes are already in the chassis but you may have to buy a mounting kit to get the captive nuts which fit into the holes if they are not present

you have to buy a towbar for your model car . as the mounting hole will be there, if you try and fit any towbar and drill holes it will affect the structure of the car the wiring for the tow bar is universal and if you get a wiring kit it will tell you how to wire it in,

I assume that the towbar didn't come with a proper wiring kit as, unfortunately there is not a specific connector for the towbar wiring on the x-type, the proper Vehicle Specific Kit plugs into the rear light. There is a power connector with three pins on the left and a grey reverse sensor cut out connector also on the left. but you will either need to use a Vehicle Specific Wiring kit (about £175) or use a bypass relay system.

Not really an easy way.
The easiest way to fix it would be to replace the manifold.
Other then that, you will need to work the old threaded piece out of the manifold, and then retap the hole (the same size). The re tapping is simply to clean up any damage you might incur during the removal of the broken piece.
Is there any of the old broken piece sticking out? If so, you can try heating the area, and see if you can twist out the broken one.

There were a number of GM vehicles that had similar problems, the the fix is always somewhat painful.