You have two coils on this engine. Test each wire for spark with the engine running. You'll find at least one wire not sparking. replace the coil that has the wire that's not sparking.
Things that have happened to this engine are the timing gear for the cam slips on the cam ( the key breaks) and you can set the mareks on the gear correctly but the cam is turned in the gear and it'll make it run like your talkin about. To check remove the tinming covers and the timing belt ( after you line up the marks) The remove the upper gear and inspect the key and the cam if it's lined up and not broken, your looking in a different place and when reassembling make sure all the marks line up and if you have to pick the cam should be turned forward ( as the engine turns ) to get the best performance.
well i jus finished replacing the coils an thats not the problem i thing ima do the timing again an then mass air flow
i did the coils an still nothing but does this motor have a knock sensor an if so were is it located at?
No Knock senser on this engine, Did you check to see if the cam skipped under the cam gear? with the valve cover off and the engine on top dead center #1 cyclinder the intake valve for the # 4 cyclinder shoul be open. Turn the engine backwards ( oppisite the way it turns running) until the crankshaft timing mark passes the advance marks. put a thin feeler gauge between the cam and the lift of the #4 intake valve, it should go in with some resistance moving the feelers gauge so you can feel the lift tighten as it starts to push the cvalve open the valve should open 23 degees before top dead center and no less than 10 degrees. If it's later than that it'll still run but it'll stall and have little power.
I've found 6 differnt vehicals with the cam gear skipped, It's a common problem and it's hard to catch. It you notice you changed the parts you said without verifying that the old ones were causing a problem. That's blind'sman bluff. You can only get lucky if you fix something that way. Your description on how it runs says the coputer is alright as the check engine light is'nt on the even with the timing wrong the computer still makes it run smoolthly.
It's gona run good with all those new parts! The fuel injectors need to be new ones or used ones out of a low mileage doner car. I've had bad experiences with the rebuilt injectore that you can get. They aways work when you put them in butsome of them don't last very long. I got the best gas mileage with my own car with new injectors and changing the cam timing and recording the gas mileage carefully and driving the car the same trip and using at lest 10 gals of fuel each test and if I thought it was a good run. I'd record all the settings and then change it and try again. carfully recording the mileage. Then recsntly I got to go on some longer trips wher I butrnt a whople tank in one day and it got 29 MPG. I was pleased as the advertized mileage ( gas buddy.com) was 15-26. It6's gotton 29 a few times now and local mile age has been over 20. Exhaust restrictions and EGR leaks can make for some hard to check problems. With the EGR valve removed plug the vacum side and run the engine ( you'll hear the exhaust leak where the valve goes. Rig a pressure gauge at the exhaust port ( jam the hose in the hole and stuff stuff around it to seal it ( tape)) Put the gauge on the outside of the windshield and tape it on so you can see it as you drive. The gauge should be a fuel pressure gauge to test carborater fuel pumps 30 LBS. high and also show vacume. Crusing along the pressure should be vacume. DEcall certainly vacume. Acceerate shoul never go about 5 PSI. If the exhaust gets any higher than 5 You have a leak somewhere or the cat or muffler is stopped up. Leaks or shortened exhaust sounds cool but get poor gas mileage as the exhaust needs to be sucked out of the engine most of the time. Long straight pipes will get the most vacume but if they're too long they'll build pressure at high RPM. Even top fuel draggers have about 2 feet of exhaust. Leaks in the exhaust cause lots of back pressure. Sealing a small leak on my car was worth 5 MPG. Seems like it's faster too. Louder does'nt aways get more power and Sealed all the way to the end is best. A good muffler with no leaks will give the best gas mileage. An engine runs best as hot as it can get without melting ( the old story is true ( they run best right before they blow)) It's ture I've been working on cars and motorcycles for 35 years and I've seen alot of blown motors and overcooling and overheating kill most of them. Yes overcooling will cause your problem a the temperture sender is telling the cxomputer the engine is cool so it adds fuel to warm the motor up. Riding down the road water temperture should be right in the middle of a stock gasuge.. If not change the therostate and anyother cooling system work needed to get it right.
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You can skip the belt froward ( as the engine turns) and run it like that. then even skip it again. idf that's not enough. If you go to far it will idel but not like being revved up.
ok well im in south florida its 12 o clock at night an ive been workin on this thing for two days so im gonna mess with it tomorrow i will let u kno wat happpens thank you
no i didnt check the cam gear my father inlaw said that wouldnt be it but weve tried everything else weve replaced everything... fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs & wires, mass air flow, coils, cleaned the injectors.. when i say everything i mean EVERYTHING!!! but now im convinced its the cam gear but he wants to change the computer an the injectors first so ima let em play with it bofore i put any more time into it ill let you kno tomorrow when hes done with the computer an injectors... (when were done with this truck its gonna b brand new)
OK ITS FIXED... IT WAS THE INJECTORS!!!!!!!!
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