I have a ford 1710 offset tractor. I have rebuilt the hydraulic pump and have trouble with the priority valve blowing seals. The factory offers two kits to remedy the problem,the first one didn't work,and the other, which was to replace and upgrade the first one doesn't fit my tractor. I have rebuilt and tried a number of remedies but the thing still blows seals, but only when I try to turn the steering wheel. The tractor has 1500 hours on it and has been trouble free for the three years I've had it.

Removing a rear axle on a Ford 1710 tractor can be a complex process that requires careful steps to ensure safety and proper reassembly. If the outer axle oil seal is leaking, it's important to address the issue. However, due to the intricacies of tractor repair, I strongly recommend consulting the tractor's official service manual or seeking assistance from a professional tractor mechanic who is familiar with your specific tractor model.
That being said, here's a general outline of the procedure to remove a rear axle:

1. Prepare the Tractor:
   • Park the tractor on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
   • Block the wheels to prevent the tractor from rolling.
2. Drain Fluid:
   • Drain the rear axle oil by removing the drain plug.
3. Remove Wheels:
   • Remove the rear wheels from the tractor.
4. Disconnect Components:
   • Disconnect any components that are connected to the axle, such as brakes and hydraulic lines.
5. Remove Axle Housing Cover:
   • Remove the axle housing cover by removing the bolts.
6. Access Axle Shafts:
   • Once the cover is removed, you'll have access to the axle shafts.
7. Remove Axle Shafts:
   • Depending on the design of your tractor, you may need to remove various components to access and remove the axle shafts.
8. Replace Seal:
   • Once the axle shafts are removed, you can access the outer axle oil seal. Carefully remove the old seal and replace it with a new one.
9. Reassemble:
   • Reassemble all components in the reverse order of removal.
   • Make sure to properly torque all bolts and nuts according to the manufacturer's specifications.
   • Refill the axle with the appropriate oil.
10. Test:

• Test the tractor to ensure that the issue is resolved and that there are no leaks.

Remember that this is a general guideline, and the actual procedure can vary depending on the specific design and components of your Ford 1710 tractor. Incorrect disassembly or reassembly can result in damage or safety hazards. Therefore, if you're not experienced with tractor repair, it's highly recommended to seek professional assistance or consult the tractor's service manual for accurate instructions.

The Ford 1710 Internal Hydraulic Filter is located behind the loader bracket near the transmission.

Search utube or pinterest. Haynes or clymer publush ashopbook. Library also has tech info

you might have changed the conections
check the valves

Could have cut a seal when building it. Could be a bad case. Could be the pressure block/ control valves are bad. Since yours works with little pressure. I would go after the control valves/block

Ford Tractor Hydraulic System - My Ford Tractors

www.myfordtractors.com/hydraulics.shtml

All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N ... 6 - How long has it been since you changed the hydraulic fluid? ... If that didn't do it, read on. ... then remove the bottom bolt from the inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick.

Yesterday's Tractors - Fifty Tips for Ford 9N, 2N and 8N ...

www.yesterdaystractors.com/articles/artint268.htm

I'd like to say that the reason I have an 8N Ford tractor is because that's the tractor ... The N tractors have a common sump for the rear end, hydraulic pump andtransmission. ... (Read the label.) .... Take the inspection plate with the dipstick off.

Ford 8N, 9N, 2N, NAA Tractors Information - SSB Tractor ...

www.ssbtractor.com/wwwboard/messages15/

Helpful information and resources on Ford 8N, 9N, 2N, NAA tractors from SSB Tractor, a leading provider of tractor parts, manuals, implements ... 1944 ford 2n: What type of oil to use? and whats the oil pressure should be? ...... N Series Trans/Hydro Fluid - Interesting To Read ... Ford NAA/Jubilee Hydraulic dipstick location?

Ford Tractors Information - SSB Tractor Forum

www.ssbtractor.com/wwwboard/messages4/
Helpful information and resources on Ford tractors from SSB Tractor, a leading provider of tractor ... tractor pumps oil but won't pump hydraulic fluid ..... 1972 Ford LGT165 lawn and garden tractor hydraulics ..... Ford 5000 transmission oil level

YOU COULD HAVE A BAD SEAT WERE THE SEAL GOES INTO MAKE SURE THERE IS NO GROOVES OR CRACKS THERE

I can tell you some things about this and what you decide to do about it is up to you.

Here is what can happen. The valve depends on the valve spring to close the valve. If there is a leaking oil stem seal, the oil can try to run into the cylinder. As it does this, the valve starts sticking as the valve stem gunks up. The valve spring can also be weak or broken and fail to close the valve.

You can change the valve spring and the oil seal on the stem on some motors by placing the cam where the valve is closed. Then using an adapter, force air into the problem cylinder(at the sparkplug hole) and the air pressure will keep the valve from falling into the engine. You then use a valve spring compressor and swap the springs and replace the stem seal.

On some motors, the cam is on top and in the way. Other motors use the overhead cam to press a rocker arm with the valve offset and accessible. The pushrod was eliminated and even lifters were eliminated. You can get loaner tools at Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys.

Another option is to have your head sent out and rebuilt or go to Car-parts.com for Salvaged heads with shipment to your door and all the contact info you need to get the part.

If you remove the head you will need new head bolts as the old ones stretch. Of course a Torque wrench is highly recommended as the 4 cylinder heads were subject to bad head gaskets.

You should take out the number 1 plug and look at how it is burning. You may have a water leak causing the valve to fail. The clicking noise can be the valve failing to return to its base. Hydraulic lifters can collapse too. But your noise is the extra space in the valve train causd by a sticking valve, bad lifter, or broken spring.

There are some Paperback books with pictures to do this job. You can see if you fell comfortable about trying to fix it yourself.

Black smoke tells me your piston rings are worn. Also the fumes you have explained tells me the valve seals are worn and leaking oil as well
The leaking valve seals and pistion rings will expell the fumes out through the exhaust. If you check your oil level every 50 miles and the oil level is down a half quart or more serious engine wear has occured and needs to be rebuilt soon