Do you have too removed the whole drive shaft to replace the d/s coupler

Power Rack and Pinion Steering Gear REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1997 Models

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disarm the air bag system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
4. Transaxle gearshift cable from the shifter lever
5. Loosen the gearshift cable-to-transaxle mount bolt
6. Gearshift cable from the transaxle
7. Throttle cable from the throttle body, if necessary
8. Throttle cable bracket
9. Both wiper arm assemblies from the wiper arm pivots
10. Cowl closure panel and weather-stripping as an assembly from the cowl
11. Wiper module wiring harness from the vehicle wiring harness
12. Wiper module assembly from the cowl panel
13. Air plenum from the throttle body, PCV make up air tube and the idle air control motor. Remove the plenum from the right side of the vehicle through the wiper module area.
14. Power brake booster vacuum connector at the intake manifold
15. Turn the front wheels to the full left position. Then, turn the wheels back in the other direction until the roll pin in the lower steering coupler is accessible. Turn the ignition key switch to the LOCK position to keep the steering column from rotating after the coupler is removed from the steering gear. If the steering column shaft rotates beyond the normal number of turns in either direction, the air bag clock spring will be damaged. Fig. 1: Matchmark the steering coupler to the intermediate shaft for proper alignment
    Fig. 2: Steering rack-to-subframe attaching bolt locations — replace mounts if worn
    
    
16. Using paint, mark the steering coupling and steering gear shaft for orientation. Using the correct size punch, remove the roll pin from the steering coupling.
17. If equipped, remove the pedal travel sensor from the brake booster as follows:
    1. Pump the brake pedal approximately 20 times. This will bleed the vacuum stored in the booster.
    2. Remove the wiring harness connector from the sensor.
    3. Using a small flat-tipped tool, lift the retainer ring from the notch. Then, remove the retaining ring from the grommet.
    4. Remove the pedal travel sensor from the brake booster by carefully pulling it straight out of its mounting grommet. Do not twist the sensor.
18. Remove or disconnect the following:
19. Master cylinder from brake booster with the brake lines connected and position aside
20. Power steering pressure hose and return hose from the power steering gear
21. Bend back the tie rods-to-steering gear bolt retaining tabs and remove the bolts
22. Lay the tie rods, bolts and plate as an assembly on the bell housing of the transaxle.
23. If the rack and pinion steering gear unit being removed is a speed proportional steering gear, disconnect the vehicle wiring harness from the solenoid control module.
24. Remove or disconnect the following:
25. 4 bolts attaching the steering gear assembly to the crossmember. Slide the steering gear forward in the vehicle to disengage the steering coupler from the steering gear shaft. After the gear is disengaged, do not rotate the steering gear shaft
26. Steering gear assembly from the vehicle through the area in the cowl from which the windshield wiper module was previously removed To install:
    
27. If a replacement rack is being installed, grasp the shaft of the steering gear and rotate it until the steering gear center take off is in a full left turn position. Install the steering gear into the vehicle through the wiper module opening in the cowl.
28. If the original gear is being installed, align the paint mark on the steering coupler with the mark on the steering gear shaft and install the steering gear shaft into the steering gear coupler.
29. If a replacement rack is being installed, the steering gear shaft and steering coupler must be aligned. Rotate the steering gear shaft back from the full left turn position until the master spline on the steering gear shaft is aligned with the master spline on the steering coupler. At this point, install the steering gear into the coupler.
30. Align the steering gear with the mounting holes in the crossmember and install the bolts. Be sure the brake line routing clip is installed under the left steering gear mounting bracket. Tighten the mounting bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).

You shouldn't have to replace the whole shaft. Go to auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts and tell them you need the Rear u-joint for the Drive Shaft of that vehicle and they should have it. The replacement process is a little tedious but can be done. Get the Haynes repair Manual on your vehicle, while your there at the Auto parts store, and look up the Drive Shaft. It will tell you how to remove, inspect and if needed replace the U-Joints on your drive shaft. If in fact for some reason, and I have never seen or heard of this, the U-Joints can't be replaced the Manual will tell you. Because they are usually pressed in on the shaft itself some say you have to replace the whole thing but they can normally be removed with a little muscle.

no the spindle stays on the vehicle,this process is not that difficult.start by removing the wheels and 38mm nut at the end of each shaft,then reomve the bolt holding on the front lower control arm from the front sub frame,pressout the shaft through the wheel bearing,now that the end of the shaft is out use a pry bar to pop out the shaft in the oil pan,pull them out and replace, Also you must be aware that removeing the 38mm nut is difficult without a impact gun and it is also a 12 point nut as well you must force out the ends of the drive shaft with a special puller of a air chistle with a point as you are not able to push it through by hand good luck

this is a pressed unit. honestly youre better off either purchasing the whole drive line or go buy the bearing new and take it to a transmission or drive line shop. they wont charge that much to remove and replace the bearing and all youll have to do is r and r.

undo all covers to allow acess to shaft undo all bolts holding flex coupler 6mm allen key + 12mm spanner undo the gaurd the shaft goes through remove all bolts, lever rear coupler apart, push rear of shaft towards passenger side of car, slide shaft out, refitt in opposite order, certain models toyota tells you that whole shaft required, for about 3,000 dollars . after market couplers available from hardy spicer, shaft will have to be removed first to know if 12mm or 14mm dowel into end of shaft
hope this helps

Short answer...not too tough.
Longer more useful answer...
Get quality urethane replacement.
Put car in 1st with gear lever.
Block wheels and climb under with (I think10mm and 13mm) wrenches.
Undo grub screw on coupler (to linkage).
Undo through bolt on coupler.
Push linkage forward and remove bits.
Replace bits with new ones and replace through bolt.
Have friend carefully put shift lever in about 1st gear position and guide coupler onto other shaft.
Tighten grub screw.

remove inner cv boot, just on inside edge is circlip which holds inner bearing joint into outer housing remove circlip and separate joint outer housing does not come out of front diff unless you drop or remove whole front diff assembly
will have to remove whole stub axle hub assembly to remove drive shaft from outer wheel stub axle (hub) assembly

Sounds like a transfer case problem. But I can't verify that from here. Coupler is inside the unit on the output shaft and needs teardown to get to it.

just the U joint's and rubber torque coupler can be replaced, u can pull it out and have it rebuilt as well.

Hello;
You need to check all your mounting points in the steering. Also check your tie rod ends and the u-joints to the rack and pinion.