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Based on the codes you gave the high idle is because of the EGR valve. (12,13 and 34)
21 is a temp sensor code, and I don't have a 44 listed. I hope this helps.
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If you do not have a check engine light on you may have an issue with the electronic throttle control system, repair requires the system be scanned to see why it is idling to high. If you do have a check engine light on have the system tested for fault codes.
UIs the check engine light on? if so what codes are showing, if you dont have a code scanner, have it scanned for free at an Auto Zone Parts Store, or Discount Auto, etc., they will decipher what the codes are for you tell you what and where the defective parts are and give you a parts price estimate and availability.
It sounds like a defective/sticking Idle Air Control Motor(IAC) or a sticking throttle blade or linkage at the throttle body base.
Before anything try to observe by eye anything that appears to look defective, broken or misaligned, such as a broken throttle linkage return spring or the like.
Also apply a good spraying over all the movable linkage parts with WD 40 or its counter part product of your choice.
Hope this info helps.
Happy Motoring!!
first thing i would do is clean out the throttle body a lot of time carbon build up can cause the linkage to stick causing a high idle any carb cleaner works fine good luck
2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve this is all I could find
lift hood while running and lisen for a vacum leak and check all vacum hoses. if you dont find a vacum leak then replace the idle air cotrol valve. if the check engine light is on then make sure the code is not for the throttle position sensor. if so then replace the throttle position sensor.
If you've tried to reset the idle pins on the throttle plate and that did nothing and also checked the throttle postion sensor (TPS) and engines codes, then it could be that the air bypass valve (APV - electronic engine control idle control valve) is simply stuck open.
The APV is a little black (3") solenoid valve bolted on the front of throttle body, 90° from the TPS that, when energized, allows addtional air to bypass the throttle plate (as if you were holding the pedel down some). It's the fancy modern equivalent for the much more complex 100% mechanical assemblies that were in old time carbs that set high idle air flow when you also had set the choke.
The APV is used (energized - opened) to set the high idle when the car is cold and closes (de-energized) when the engine reaches temperature. It can get all fouled up with recylced exhaust and/or crankcase recirculation fumes from the emmission control system. If you take it off and manually actuate the piston, it should move in and out freely and, all by itself, it should return (via a spring) to the normally fully closed position. If not, try cleaning it with some brake cleaner or get a new one.
My problem that made me discover and fully understand my APV was a bit different but it was all about the idle being wrong and irregular, be it low or high, but not where it should be, for no good diagnosible reason, and once I cleaned and reinstalled my APV, the problem was 100% solved.
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