Wont start, no power to starter solenoid or starter relay

Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? How to use a DMM - digital multi-meter to diagnose automotive electrical circuit's ? Looking at a wiring diagram to see what all is involved in the starter circuit , main battery cables , park neutral safety switch , starter relay etc.. Find video's on youtube . Do you have a manual or automatic trans. ? The purple wire get's B+ voltage from the starter relay in the underhood fuse / relay box .

How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit
When your car wont crank or start part 3 How to check relays fuses...

If the dash lights up, but no crank, it could be the anti-theft system, or the neutral safety switch, among other things.
Have you tried cranking it in neutral ? Do you have power at the starter post ?
Does everything else work when you turn the key on ?

Check this out > Troubleshooting No Start Problem Why Won My Car Start What To Look For...

And this site > Car clicks once and wont start tried jumping replaced solenoid starter... < this site does have a soluation.

Good Luck

I think the purple wire (or maybe the yellow) from the neutral safety switch goes to the coil side of the starter relay, turning it on so power is sent from there to the starter solenoid. You could check for this signal to the relay with a test light. The key must be held in start while you probe the other two terminals for the relay. If the signal is there, either a bad relay or the coil side of relay is not grounded properly. It is possible that the coil side ground is the neutral safety switch-grounding the relay's coil side only in park or neutral-in which case the nagging light on shifter (between off and run, it only works?) may be telling you the safety switch is the problem.

You may need to look at a wiring diagram, Greg. But the starter relay is the last component in the start circuit before the starter solenoid. From battery to ignition switch to "crank" fuse to neutral safety switch to starter relay to starter solenoid to starter-and back to battery through ground. That is the start circuit. Just that the wiring tying them all together makes it complicated.

Go under the car and have a helper hold the key in the start position while you probe the wire to the solenoid for 12 volts, also do a voltage test on the positive battery cable and inspect it at the battery for acid intrusion near the positive battery post clamp, if acid has gotten into the cable the outer insulation will appear swollen and the cable must be replaced, this is a common cause of no starts on Explorers.

Most likely is intermittent in starter solenoid relay

Next most likely is key switch start connection intermittent. a tester will have to be used to find where the power is being lost from the start terminal of ignition switch to starter solenoid pilot connection to the main starter output power from solenoid to starter main contactor.

First thing to check would be the starter solenoid-mounted on the starter. In the starting circuit, that is the most high use/high wear item. A tech would wait for the no start condition, then check the solenoid wire for power when key is held in the cranking position. If power is there, it indicates a faulty solenoid. If no power, trace the signal back to the ignition switch-from solenoid to starter relay to clutch switch to ignition switch.
There are contact points (plates, really) inside the solenoid that become pitted and burned from use, and eventually wear down or out.

Maybe the starter or starter solenoid is bad. First, make sure connections at battery and starter are clean and tight. Old school method: turn headlights on, and (if good and bright) observe them while someone turns key to crank. If they dim noticeably and starter makes no sound, likely the starter has failed. If you observe no difference in headlight strength, then likely the starting circuit from ignition switch to starter solenoid is not working. You could take the wire off starter solenoid and see if it has power there while key is in crank position. If you do have power there, starter needs to be tested, or the solenoid is bad. If no power to the solenoid when cranking, then the circuit from the ignition switch to the solenoid will need diagnosing. Your neutral safety switch, and possibly a starter relay is in that circuit before it reaches the solenoid.
Good luck.

There are two ways to hook up an immobilizer on a car. One is to break the continuity of the ignition system power suplly. This would result in an engine that cranks but wont start. Another way is to break the continuity of the starting relay. If an installer knows what he is doing he would wire it so that the relay wont get power to the coil. This would result in a car that don't even click when you turn the key so I doubt it is the immobilizer. If the starting relay clicks, the contacts on the relay might be worn out, and not getting enough current to drive the solenoid. One way to check this is by using a volt meter. And check to see if there are voltages going to the starter solenoid, when the key is turned. It should be almost the same as battery voltage. If the voltage going there are no voltage going to the solenoid, or the voltage going there is low, for exmple 8 volts then the contact on the relay is bad. Remember this is if the relay clicks. If the click is loud, and coming from the starter itself but it wont turn, replace the starter, that means the starter solenoid is bad, or if you can buy just the solenoid it maybe cheaper, but you have to know how to take a starter apart, I dont recommend that tho. Good luck these should solve the problem.

Could be a bad connection between the battery and starter. Starter solenoid, or neutral safety switch if it is standard transmission.
Check for power at the solenoid.
Lone99star

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