1997 Volkswagen Passat Logo
Posted on Aug 11, 2010
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How do i replace a water pump on a 1997 vw passat

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Duane Wong

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  • Volkswagen Master 6,826 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 11, 2010
Duane Wong
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Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.8L Engine NOTE: The coolant pump is bolted to the brackets for the generator, power steering pump, and cooling fan.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Position the lock carrier into the service position as follows:
    1. Remove or disconnect:
      • Front bumper.
      • Any wiring or connector that would inhibit locking the carrier.
      • 3 quick-release screws on the front noise insulation panel.
      • Air guide between the lock carrier and the air filter.
      • Retaining clamps for the wiring harness at the left side of the radiator frame.
      • No. 2 bolts and install Support tool 3369 or equivalent.
      • Remaining bolts and pull the lock carrier out to the stop.
    2. To secure the lock carrier, install the appropriate M6 bolts into the rear of the lock carrier and fender.
  3. Remove or disconnect
    • Negative battery cable.
    • Accessory drive belt, then the engine driven cooling fan.
    • Coolant.
    • Clamps for the coolant hoses at the water pump.
    • Intake air duct between the intake manifold and the charge air cooler.
    • Generator mounting bolts and slide it forward.
    • Wiring from the generator once it is removed.
  4. Unbolt the following supports and brackets for the generator, power steering pump, and engine cooling fan:
    1. Intake manifold support
    2. Support for the engine torque bracket
    3. Brace to the cylinder block (remove completely)
  5. Remove or disconnect:
    • Brackets for the generator, power steering pump, and engine cooling fan, positioning the brackets to the left side using a piece of wire
    • Coolant hoses from the pump and thermostat housing
    • Coolant pump housing from the timing belt cover
    • Coolant pump mounting bolts, then the pump
    • Impeller housing from the pump housing
    To install: Fig. 1: Exploded view of the water pump, housing and related components — 1.8L engine how do i replace a water pump on a 1997 vw passat - 9301wg04.gif
    Fig. 2: Assembly bracket with water pump mounting bolt tightening sequence — 1.8L engine

  6. Using a new gasket, mount the new coolant pump to the pump housing. Mounting bolts: 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  7. Using a new gasket and O-ring, install the coolant pump. Mounting bolts in alphabetical sequence: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  8. Tighten the coolant pump housing to the timing belt cover to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  9. Install or connect:
    • Coolant hoses to the pump and thermostat housing.
    • Brackets that were removed. Mounting bolts: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
    • Wires to the generator, then install the generator.
    • Air intake duct between the intake manifold and the charge air cooler.
  10. The remaining steps are the reverse of the removal.
  11. Fill the engine with coolant
  12. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one-touch opening/closing function
  13. After installing the lock carrier, check the wiring for proper routing near the cooling fan
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Anonymous

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  • Master 2,382 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 11, 2010
Anonymous
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Hi, what ever you do DO NOT attempt yourself!!! the water pump is timing belt driven and if the timing is off even one tooth you will be paying about $4,000 to replace the WHOLE engine.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 27 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 07, 2008

SOURCE: 1997 VW Passat trouble code

bring it to local garage

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Jan Jensen

  • 17 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 14, 2008

SOURCE: 2001 VW PASSAT OVERHEATING

did the electric fan on the radiator start up? if this dont start up, it can get the engine overheated , specily if the car run in hot weather , an when the car stay on idle . The other problem is the engine head , the head gasket can blow and you get the compresion presure in the water chanal .Try to se of the oil on engine is gray? If gray you must change head gasket.
Hoope this can help you

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 15, 2009

SOURCE: VW thermostat

Hi
my engine (VW 1.9 TDI 115 BHP)doesn t warm up.Can you help?
Thanks
Costello

Anonymous

  • 234 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 15, 2009

SOURCE: oil in water resovour vw 2002 passat

This is probably a head gasket problem and not an oil cooler problem.

The oil cooler is fairly easy to test.

Remove the cooler from the engine but do not disconnect cooling lines and then pressurize the cooling system. You can use a radiator test tool to put pressure on the cooling system and look for leaks. If it leaks, replace it.

You may also be able to bypass the oil cooler altogether if it leaks.

The head gasket is another story.

Get a 1/4" pipe to spark plug fitting and put a male air coupling fitting in it.

Then you can charge the cylinders with air from your compressor.

Make sure each cylinder that you test is at top dead center so that the valves are closed.

If air bubbles into your coolant, you found your problem.

If air leaks out your intake you have a bad intake valve

If air leaks out your exhaust you have a bad exhaust valve etc.


If you find this useful, please take the time to rate it.

Tim

Jonah Oneal

  • 14092 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 03, 2010

SOURCE: how do I replace a fuel pump on a 2002 vw passat

FUEL PUMP IS LOCATED UNDER THE VECHICLE IN THE FRONT OF REAR AXLE OR IN FRONT OF FUEL TANK ON THE RIGHT.

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1997 VW Passat trouble code

Hi ejj509,

Both my 97 Passat and my wife's 99 Passat were throwing the same OBD codes you listed.

Both VW's had the same problem. There is no "quick" solution for the problem. I can tell you what I found, what I had to do and how I repaired both vehicles so they no longer throw this OBD error code.

I removed the black plastivc AIR pump and found that three of the six aluminum rivets which hold the AIR pump impeller housing together had rotted off so the case was leaking air. I went to a hardware store with one of the aluminum rivets I had removed from the AIR pump and bought six brass machine screws and brass nuts. I gouged the aluminum rivets out and replaced them with the brass machine screws.

After I had replaced the AIR pump in the VW, I cleared the codes and ran the diagnostics again.
It still threw the same codes!!!

Next, I removed the plastic top engine cover from the VW engine (VR6) and located the many air solenoids hidden under the cover. I went to a local NAPA shop and purchased an eight foot length of their smallest gauge neoprene gas line (1/8 inch ID).

I carefully removed each piece of rotted VW vacuum line from the air solenoids and replaced each rotted section with lengths of the new neoprene gas line. I had to follow out each of the old vacuum lines and replace them because they were badly deteriorated. This took about five hours to accomplish.

I replaced the plastic engine cover and connected up my cable from my laptop to the VW's computer port, cleared all of the codes and ran a new scan. This time the scan was clear! Woo Hoo! Apparently, the problem was both the leaking AIR pump and faulty, deteriorated (cheap) Volkswagen vacuum lines.

It was well worth the effort. My driveway has now become a bonafied VW repair shoppe.



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