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Posted on Jul 21, 2010

1884 RX-7 GSL, A/C has gone out! Have replaced the Sanden SD-575 compressor (reman.), new hoses, receiver/dryer, expansion valve & thermostatic switch. Flush cleaned the remaining system. Checked fan and all doors for proper operation. Reinstalled parts and 5.5 ozs of oil. Pulled vacuum, no leaks and charged system with 1.5 lbs 134A. Clutch engages, fan runs, but NO COLD AIR (A very, very little cool air)..........What is wrong???

  • Anonymous Jul 21, 2010

    Do you know what the low and high side pressures are?

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2 Related Answers

ziad ahmad

  • 117 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 03, 2011

SOURCE: HI MY NAME IS TONYA

HI there #1 before you put freon in did use a vacuum pump and pull too the right vacuum
specification if not you have air in the system.
#2 if you put 4 cans of freon you over charged the system must vehicles a/c systems use 1lp 5oz
you must remove freon first and use vacuum pump and put system in vacuum for abut 1hour
too mack shore system is air and muster free.
ones that is don you can charge system be careful not too over charge OK

good luck

ziggyone

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Anonymous

  • 336 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2012

SOURCE: 2000 mazda 626 wont blow cold air i have replaced compressor dryer and flushed the system and reinstalled new freon any ideas

There is a valve that stops hot coolant from entering the heater box. It is probably stuck open. murf427

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I have a po532/po533 replaced the whole system less evap. Core performed evac it held 29in i recharge the system to one pound fourteen oz and system is cold excellent pressure high and low shut off a half...

There is a lot more to it than that. This is why the service bill is so high. Did you replace the Orifice tube or expansion valve? Did you replace the receiver/dryer? Did you flush the whole system out with solvent? Did you put the oil back in?

The proper steps are:

1. Remove any Freon with a recovery station.
2. Isolate and remove the compressor.
3. Remove and discard the receiver/dryer.
4. Remove and discard the orifice tube/expansion valve.
5. Flush the system with solvent and catch the discharge to check for rust and debris. If any are found, replace the whole system.
6. Replace the orifice tube / expansion valve with new one.
7. Replace the receiver/drier with new one.
8. Replace the oil in the system with fresh oil in the right amount.
9. Connect all compressor fittings on the compressor.
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11. Recharge the system. Check performance and leaks.
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Do I have to replace the old expansion devices on the A/C when installing a new compressor? Same for the old dryer?

There is no reason to replace the expansion valve unless it tested faulty (very rare). The receiver drier should be replaced any time that the system is opened, and then the system must be evacuated before recharging
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Oiling in ac system is complicated.

why is the compresser being changed.

What I normally do is remove the receiver / dryer (which MUST reread > MUST be replaced when the system is opened) cut it open, check for chemical issues with litmus strip.

Typically, there is about one ounce in the reciever/dryer. If it is down to 1/2 ounce, for example, THE WHOLE system is down 50%.

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