20 Most Recent 1985 Mazda RX-7 Questions & Answers

Blocked exhaust, excessive overheat and probably warped rotor housings

Main fuse links, bad grounds, bad connections at battery.

do not understand question. If a thermal sensor is not working there can be some driveablilty issues, If it is the sensor for the water temp gauge, it will not effect engine operation.

can be any of a million things, vehicle details help!!

Check fuel pump solenoid...fuse box in engine bay.Just swap with a similar looking one from the same box to eliminat solenoid problem.If found defective replace with new one.

get a workshop manual and read how to adjust the engine speed screw and the mixture screw idle speed is around 900 rpms have the carby overhauled check for vacuum leaks could be a faulty EGR valve

check the carby linkage for being held up or that the choke is not still on. check for vacuum leaks check that the throttle spring is still in position and hasn't broken off.

1985 Mazda RX7 1.3 liter 2RTR



Hope helps.

most likely the flasher unit is dead , it is a cheap , plug in part that is usually found in the fuse box. I am not familiar with rx7's but i am sure you can find a fuse box diagram on line somewhere.

No such thing. There are trailing and leading ignitors which are on the distributer. Speedo cable goes from gauge to transmission left aft. near the crossmember.

check alternator and charging system.

check fuses, ignition switch and ignitors. Ignitors are common failures especially if you have either jump started it or used your car to jump start someone else. Manuals can be downloaded from foxed.ca.

Did you use a Mazda/Mitsubishi cap and rotor. Many of the aftermarkets can cause problems, especially rotors that do not fit on the dist shaft extremely tight. Aftermarket have a tendency to rotate on the shaft causing timing issues. How many miles on motor? There is nothing done at a smog test that will cause it not to start, just coincidence. If you are getting spark on all four plugs and you are sure you are getting fuel, you need to have a compression test done to make sure there are no issues with the motor. There is a hose U shaped going from a dashpot aft right near carb, ~3in dia valve. Check the hose where it attaches at the back of the manifold. See if it is collapsed or cracked.

you could have either a bad water temp sensor or bad choke switch.

if you loosen nut on top you should be able to lean or twist it to get it out of car. What kind of problems are you having?? cable maybe holding it back as well see if you can get any slack in cable if you have access to it

check fuses and dimmer switch.

You set the leading timing with the distributer. You then set the trailing timing with the vacuum control unit. FSM can be downloaded at http://foxed.ca/

you have to remove the tail light assemble to get the antenna and motor out. Remove the 10mm nuts and unplug the harness from the lamp assembly. Carefully remove the assembly, to save the seal. It has to slide to the outside a little to clear the two outer studs. Remove the back and right side quarter panels. loosen two 10mm nuts for the antenna, remove the retaining ring fender; remove 10mm nuts; unplug power and antenna leads; move bottom of assembly forward to clear fender; remove through tail light hole.

Yours has the two buttons either with speaker joystick or change holder. There are four contact points they are just plastic pin clips. At least one if not all will break at this age. You cannot remove the console without removing that panel, front mounting screws are under it. Good luck, you could try making sure the plastic is warm and use some really small screw drivers or homemade implements

Quite easy actually. There are two rotors 1 - front and 2 - rear. there are two plugs per rotor Trailing - top and Leading - lower. The distributor cap has letters and combination letters/numbers on it (if it does not you need to get a good quality cap) L and T and L1 T1 L2 T2 L is leading coil, T trail coil, pretty self explanatory from there My recommendation from nearly 40 experience with rotary's is to use Mazda Mitsubishi Cap Rotor and NGK wires and plugs. Has been good enough for factory race teams also. An issue with most aftermarket rotors is that they do not fit properly and can cause changes in timing and worse case, damage both cap and rotor.