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Sounds like some kind of heater door problem in the heater control. It keep flapping and makeing a sound every second and a half or so. The heat coming out of the heater is dropping as compared to before the flapping system sound started. It does this continuouisly until you turn on the AC, then it stops. When you turn the car on with the ac / heater system off it stops
Re: Sounds like some kind of heater door problem in the...
Look under your dash in front of the passenger against the fire wall. You should be able to see the diverter controls. If they are vacumm operated, there may be one disconnected. good luck.
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if you can reach the heater box. see if you can "feel" anything moving in the area of the air mix door, if the controls are the rotary style, it is somewhat common for the controls to be bad. There are no conventional cables with this system, it electrically controlled...
Hello, Sounds like the flap that controls the cold air and hot air duct is not working. One duct pulls air through the heater core where the other duct draw air from the outer vent. If that flap is not working, allowing you to pull from the heater core duct, then either the switch/lever that controls the flap is faulty (more likely) or the flap is stuck (less likely). Hope this helps.
If both heater hoses are getting hot then you know the coolant has to be flowing and the core should be hot.
What you will have to do is locate the blend air door servo.
The blend air door is a door (or flap) between the heater core and the A/C evaporator (even without a/c there is still a door to control the cabin temp)
Early vehicles with the slider controls used a cable but the later vehicles with a rotary knob or digital buttons use a servo to rotate the door mechanism.
The servos can go bad and the switches as well.
But from the sounds of it, your door is not moving to allow the heat through the vents.
There is a tsb about replacing the secondary heater door for that noise. The door warps and hits the main door. It can also cause the heat control to be inop.The dash has to be removed to replace the door.
When re-filling the radiator you need to keep the heater on high heat. If that has no effect, feel both heater hoses to make sure they are hot. Last, I hope you checked the blend doors for proper operation before you put it back together, often they will fail and not open or close properly. a bad vacuum motor that controls those doors can also be faulty.
This sounds like a valve problem, or a heater/ cool air door stuck. Many GM vehicles, have under the hood, a valve, it is electronic or vacuum controlled. When you switch the lever to heat, this valve opens, thus letting hot water flow through to the heater core. On some newer models, there is a door (flap so to speak) within the interior compartment. This flap opens and closes between heater core and interior, thus controlling hot air flow. Have you check to insure there is sufficient coolant in the system? Low coolant levels will also cause no heat, but will also show signs of engine running warmer, sometimes much warmer than it should. The valve under hood was as used on my 1995 Astro van. the mechanism looked to work as you could see shaft move in and out, problem was the diaphram or flap in valve on end of shaft (inside valve and not visible) was detached. The other method, interior door or flab within heater box assembly was a problem on my 1998 Ford Expedition. Yours, being GM, I would check for this valve under hood. It will be somewhat obvious in most cases as it will have heater tubes running into it and from it into firewall.
Sound like a vacumm leak at one of the baffle door controlers. Look at heater box when makeing noise, should be able to see which controler is going in and out. Once you isolate which is the culprit check the hose circuit for that door.
I would think the door you hear flapping is the door that controls the airflow across the heater coil - and the fan keeps blowing the door closed, preventing the airflow from going across the heating coil. I don't know whether this vehicle is vacum controlled or cable controlled - so either it's a disconnected cable, or a leaking vacum line.
I ended up taking the vehicle to the dealer. The 'blend door' actuator had gone bad (stripped gear?). $66.00 for the part over $330 for labor. The console and part of the dash had to come out.
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