If the rattling changes with the revs of the engine, it might be that the valve compensators are either worn or not getting enough lubrication. 20V engines have quite small oil passages travelling to the head. They tend to clog up with gunk if the oil change is not frequent enough.
SOURCE: TIming Belt 2000 VW Jetta GLS 1.8T
lrb2199: What this shop has suggested in terms of replacement is pretty much the norm.
1st, if the timing belt lets go or if it jumps time you are going to be hocking the kids to pay for the repairs.
You are looking at a Diesel engine which gets a little on the toasty side to begin with. The motor oil sometimes, depending on the selection may not be too kind on the oil seals.
When you are replacing the timing belt, there is not much more effort involved to remove the front crank and cam seals and replace them with new ones because you are right there! It's a matter of sliding a gear off or unbolting a gear to gain access to a seal.
As for the Water pump, Water pumps don't last for ever and will start to seep through what is referred to as the "WEEP" hole.
If the seal fails, antifreeze will leak onto the timing belt. Antifreeze is a very slippery substance and can potentially cause the engine to jump time. So, you have a water pump that is 9 years old and HOW MANY MILES ON IT? Personally, I would suggest putting another one on. Thermostats also have a limited service life. The part is not that expensive and with the repairs being what they are, often shops throw the labor in on replacing some parts such as thermostats if they are not a big deal. Main drive belts, again, it is a wear item, it could be well worn, possibly may have another 5,000 miles on it, but you have the opportunity to have a new one installed for just the cost of the part rather than pay labor 6 months down the road. The valve cover has to be removed to access the timing belt on some engines because of the way they are configured. Again, the part may not be that expensive, and the opportunity is there to do it while the timing belt is being replaced.
OR, the costs are nominal. Valve cover gaskets on the turbo diesel VW's do start to leak, so take advantage of the opportunity.
I can understand exactly where you are coming from because it is frightening sometimes to hear people tell their stories about what they had to pay for repair on their cars.
Brake shops as an example (NOT ALL OF THEM) seem to be notorious for selling expensive work which may not really need to be done. Example: I have been in business for 28 going on 29 years. I do not sell calipers, rotors, brake master cylinders and other costly items on the majority of the brake work which comes through my shop. WHY? Because they do not need those parts!
I had a customer who learned the hard way. We had given him a quote for brakes. In this case he did need rotors on his Mercedes.
WE use "ATE" rotors and "TEXTAR" pads which are original equipment parts. They cost a little bit more, but I don't have comebacks (complaints). The husband had to leave town and the wife thought we were too high so she called one of the national chains brake shops. They suckered her in at a price over a hundred dollars lower than mine. When she left their establishment her repair bill was a little over a thousand dollars more than my quote.
They sold her calipers, rotors, brake master, system flush, and a hot wax enema! I don't see how they can get away with things like that? I know for a FACT what that car needed because the car has been in here for regular service for over four years. His wife just thought she could save some money! I guess she did HUH?
Anyway, it sounds like your guy is on the up and up.
Got any more questions? I'll be happy to answer them.
Good Luck
SOURCE: sluggish loss of power and popping noises from engine
I Have a 1995 Dodge Ram truck and it will once in awhile make popping noises or backfires through exhaust,then i lose power. but if i let off the accelerator it's ok until i step on the pedal,even if i peg it to the floor. I changed my spark plugs,but it still happens.Like i said though it doesn't happen all the time just occasionally.
SOURCE: they are saying it dropped a valve - what does
Can't say if it's common as I have little experience with your engine in particular, but a dropped valve usually means a valve spring broke and the valve is colliding with the piston. This would also cause the engine to run rough as there is no spring pressure to close the valve. Piston damage is not far behind (major repair).
SOURCE: 2000 Beetle Loud Whirring at start up
its your secondary air pump. it turns on in the cold morning to inject more air into your exhaust, something about emission. its normal to be high pitched. once on my car it was way loud, i looked and the hose had disconnected. either way its normal if its not super loud. but if its everyone is looking at me loud then check for loose hoses!
SOURCE: loud rattling noise coming from the engine
Are you losing power as well? if so it sounds like the camshaft is worn, this can be confirmed with a compression test
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