Did you replace TP sensor, or just test it? How did you perform test on TP sensor ? (what method?)
Testimonial: "I checked voltage while opening throttle and it was with in the specs at both ends of idle and wide open. "
Try using analog ohmmeter if you have one, and remove connector at TP sensor, and place probes on pins of TP sensor. Have someone slowly push and release gas pedal, and you watch meter for smooth continual movement. It should swing over , and back as pedal pushed and released. Try it a few different times, in case problem intermittent. Needle should move smooth, and not stop, or drop off, then jump back up. As long as it moves smooth in conjunction with pedal position, it should be o.k. Then if that checks out o.k., I'd pull connector at PCM, if not done already, and clean and inspect all contacts & pins etc, well and see if that helps at all. Just trying to eliminate all possibilities here before PCM.
I've just seen too many people replace PCM as final straw after replacing all parts on F.I. system, only to find out that it was the connection at PCM, which cured itself when pulled and re-installed on new one.
Fuel pressure within specs. 2 things I'd try just to see what happens.
Carefully, Give it a shot of WD-40 into throttle body when hitting accelerator, to see if it takes away the bog. If yes, then problem is fuel delivery related. If it doesn't help, try turning distributor a little at a time to see if advancing or retarding improves response on acceleration. Also, I'd make sure codes erased, then try driving it again, then check for codes returning. What happens if you try to go down the road, and accelerate gradually?
Just checking, does it bog when cold only, or at all times, even after engine up to normal operating temperature?
I keep thinking back to that coolant sensor code earlier. That's why I was curious how it runs at normal operating temperature. When engine cold, but coolant sensor telling PCM that engine is already warmed up, would be a good reason for it not too deliver required fuel during cold engine conditions, thus could also be cause of what your currently experiencing. That's why I figured a good run down the road when engine at normal operating temperature would possibly confirm my suspicions. If it runs good when at normal operating temp, then I'd certainly be suspicious of that sensor.
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SOURCE: 93 ply 3.0 idles okay,bogs when throttled,won't run.
YOU COULD HAVE A RESTRICTED EXHAUST.MUFFLER PLUGGED STOPPED UP ALSO THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER COULD BE PLUGGED.
Testimonial: "I have disconnected the converter from exhaust and I still have same problem"
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new timing belt.double checked with timing light. All marks are lined up on both cams and crank sprocket. Initial codes were 22,24. Sensors checked and codes cleared. I have disconnected catylatic converter,problem remains. Timing does advance when throttled open.
I pulled PCM connector and ohmed every wire back to all sensors.All okay. Went ahead and installed new TPS and still have same problem. Disconnected converter again, still same problem. Rechecked cammarks and crank mark,okay. Rotor right at #1 contact. What else is there? Either timing is off some how or there is still a fuel issue. Fuel pressure measured right but when I disconnect fuel line there is hardly any pressure on line after a short time. Fuel pressure 47lbs at idle, open throttle increases to 50lbs.
I haven't let the engine run more than a few minutes. Most recent things I done: totally removed EGR from throttle body and that greatly increased a more smooth idle and was able to turn dist and notice change in idle. disconnected brake vacuum and cruise vacuum to let more air into throttle body. These all helped the idle and initial throttle opening but still bogs. Took #6 inj wire off,hooked anolog meter to contacts and didn't really see a big increase in needle jumping as I opened throttle. Had a quick spike in needle when opening throttle fast but needle went right back to a steady jump. I did this to see if the injectors were staying open or not spraying in time with demand from throttle. I am almost ready to get PCM. I've bought just about everything else. Any more advice? Thanks.
Did you scan or cycle key to retrieve trouble codes if any? If yes, what were the codes? When you say timing, do you mean a new timing belt was installed, or timing just checked with light? Has it been checked for exhaust restriction?
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