Fast idle CA smog tests require testing at an idle speed of 1000 - my idle speed will not go below 1150. can this be a bad serpentine belt

we have no OPEL in USA.
the 2 door pickup truck.?
not told at all country or what engine is there of vast.
not told if petrol or diesel engine.
starter motor is dead, silent. or just clicks or chatters?
or starter cranks fast and engine fails to start or does so 1 to 10 seconds and stalls or does not run at all ,but cranks fast.
bad starter is 8 causes.
bad engines is 50 causes
so tell what it does so we do NOT jump down the 50 deep rabbit hole unless we must. okay>?

keep in mind we can not hear your starter motor deaf
or see the crank shaft spin at all. and all that matters first.

if it does crank fast , keep the battery charged at all times
or the PCM my fail and lie to you if scanned(weak battery)
if it cranks fast then we can do tests.

wot , test is to unflood and engine, you are savvy there.
EFI cuts fuel doing that to clear a flooding (fuel)
savvy2, is use 5% throttle pedal cranked to add idle air supply for a dead IAC valve stuck closed.
are spark plugs fresh, not 18 years old ever.
if is petrol not diesel and

no engine told and is engine problem.
may engines have cam belt.
and near 140km the belt slips and cam is now way off time and spark too. and bingo will not start.or does and misfires and no engine power./
\
No engine told at all or country as each country on earth
dictates (smog laws) what engine is allowed there.
see?

eeeeegaaads vast engine world wide. wowl, HUGE
gas (petrol) and diesel both.
the choice varies by each country sold (smog laws etc)_
or CORA C in Europe? 13 engines and 13 answers?
or below.

If you've already replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body and valves, and added a sealant for a potential block or gasket issue, but are still experiencing rough idling and misfiring in your 2007 Hyundai Getz, there are a few other things to check:

1. Ignition coils: These can sometimes fail and cause misfires and rough idling, even without triggering a check engine light. You may want to test them to see if they're working properly.
2. Fuel injectors: If they're dirty or clogged, they can also cause rough idling and misfires. Try cleaning them or having them professionally cleaned.
3. Vacuum leaks: If there's a leak in the vacuum system, it can cause rough idling and misfires. Check for any cracked or disconnected vacuum lines, and test the vacuum pressure to see if it's within the normal range.
4. Mass airflow sensor: If it's dirty or malfunctioning, it can cause rough idling and misfires. Try cleaning it or replacing it if necessary.
5. Compression test: If all else fails, it's possible that there's an issue with the engine itself, such as low compression in one or more cylinders. You can perform a compression test to check for this.

Your mechanic will know. Eva= evap system, usually a vacuum leak somewhere. Vacuum leaks will also affect idle.

The system has to see a wide range of conditions before a smog test can be done. On most brands you have to drive at least 50 miles, at various speeds including stop and go, let it idle for 5 - 10 minutes, and run at freeway speed for at least 25 miles. It also has to reach normal operating temp of 195 degrees.

Check your oxygen sensor, idle speed sensor & the idle air sensor your sensors wil effect. the emmision test.

this is a common sign of a bad oil pressure sender, but could also be caused by low oil pressure, a sender is cheap,but it"s always smart to do a pressure test first with a mechanical gauge,you can obtain a mechanical gauge from most automotive parts stores. then you"ll have to locate and remove the oil pressure sender and install the gauge you bought. make your test at warm idle you should have at least 25 psi below that you may very possible have worn engine bearings making it impossible for the engine to have any better oil pressure at idle. if you have 25 or greater psi of pressure at idle replace your oil sender and you"ll be back on the road

No this is not right. If you remove the battery everything resets anyways. If they are talking about relearn procedure, it should only require 50 miles. But if the light is on than either they did something wrong, created another problem, or there was already another one existing. Have the code read and let me know what it is. I'm in Ca too and used to prep european cars for smog, so I do know what I'm looking for. How did the rest do? What were the readings(if possible)?

Some vehicles require very specific drive cycles (called "drive traces" if you perform them on a road simulator or dyno) to activate certain self-checks like the catalyst and EVAP monitors. As a general rule, doing some stop-and-go driving around town at speeds up to about 30 mph followed by five to seven minutes of steady 55 mph highway speed driving will usually set most or all of the monitors. Consequently, if you're checking an OBD II system and discover that one or more of the monitors have not run, it may be necessary to test drive the vehicle to set the remaining monitors.

You should talk to a good emission tec, if this is not throwing a code, it is hard to say if that one of the components could be bad. O2,pump,convert, HeO2, every part of the emission system.

With a 1000 miles, and doing what is says above just before the test, and ending driving at the test
should be plenty. If it is not, you will have to have each emission part checked, or when the computer
is plugged in it might show a code that did not trip dash light.

16 Degrees if you have the 1.8L PFI DOHC 4cyl

pull head off and grind the valves in,this should help reduce the levels ,also check the pistons and bores if ok or look it then rebuild and try it again