2007 Saturn Vue front wheel drive. broken brake caliper for about a month was able to get it fixed. went to bleed them no fluid came out He said the brake booster may have froze. What do you think?

Air in the system is what usually causes a caliper to lock up when everything else is functioning properly. If you can't get the air out of the system you will continue to have issues because when the brake system starts getting hot, the air expands inside the brake system causing the weakest brake to be applied. You will need to bleed the brakes once you fix the caliper that is not able to be bled. Remember, bleed the brakes from the farthest wheel from the master cylinder first and then continue to the nearest wheel last.

The caliper is not retracting properly to release the braking pressure. You need to have the calipers replaced.

Or, if you drive with your foot on the brake peddle, stop that. You are pressing on the brake and engaging the brake while driving.

If it's both front wheels locking up and you changed the calipers, lines(hoses I hope), then it's most likely your master cylinder. Does it look muddy at the bottom of your master? There's a small vent hole at the top of the master(bottom of reservoir) that can get plugged and prevent the release of brake fluid/pressure. Replace master and bleed all four corners.

You have to bleed the whole system in sequence. It is a two man job. you have air in the system. You must bleed each wheel starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. then the next wheel that shares the same circuit then the next and the next. Each car has its own sequence to follow. front wheel drive cars bleed differently than rear wheel cars . You must keep the master cylinder full as you do this, as to not allow any more air to enter the system. If air has entered the ABS system it will have to be bleed as well .. You have to refer to a manual for your car.

First you want to remove brake fluid from brake resovoir, raise front wheels off ground and set park brake or block rear wheels. Remove front wheels, keep steering wheel unlocked so you can turn rotors side to side. Loosen bolts that hold caliper end gently pry caliper free from rotor, remove caliper and remove pads, use bungy cord to hang caliper away from rotor, have rotors measured to see if they are thick enough to have machined, replace if out of specs. Match up pads with old ones, use anti- squeak red liquid and put layer on back of pads, let dry. Use tool to put pistons back into calipers, slowly put pistons back into bore while opening up bleeder screw so ABS won't be damaged. After rotors resurfaced, wash with rubbing alchohal to remove any oils from hands, install rotors and reverse putting pads back onto caliper and reinstall, torque caliper bolts to factory specs and tighten bleeder screws. Install wheels, torque lug nuts to factory specs and replace brake fluid in resovoir. Lower car carefully to ground and press brake peddle without pumping it. Any air in system should bleed out, if not get someone to help with bleeding system. Road test to ensure no squeaks or pulling, burn brakes in slowly.

Bleed the brakes,all 4 corners

Who did the brake work?
Was the problem there before?

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

I would start by removing the wheels and finding the bleed screw or bolt.
Pour a little brake fluid on the bolt to free up the rust that will form over time.
Then use a box end wrench to open the bleeder.

Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and have some ready to add as you bleed the brakes.

Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal until it bottoms out and fluid squirts out of the bleeder screw area.

Watch your eyes.

Then tighten the bleeder screw.

Have them pump up the brakes again.

Do this in sequence from the furthest wheel from the master cylinder to the closest, and you'll be done.

I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words. Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.