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Blows fuses , alarm went off when I was away. Battery was dead. Got new battery and set alarm and it started blowing fuses. car calls for 15 amp. 25 amp. was in car blown replaced with 25 amp. it blew replaced with 15 amp and it blew.
Re: Blows fuses , alarm went off when I was away. Battery...
SOUNDS LIKE THE ALARM HORN IS SHORTED, CAUSING FUSE TO BLOW.
TRY UNPLUGGING ALARM HORN & SEE IF FUSE STILL BLOWS.
IF IT DOES NOT BLOW, REPLACE ALARM HORN.
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Likely there is a blown fuse but a battery won't blow a fuse on its own. Change any blown fuses and if that fixes the issue and the fuse doesn't blow for awhile then your ok but if the fuse blows quickly then you have an issue with the electrical system and you need to take it to a shop
Most all aftermarket radios have their own fuse next to the wiring harness plug. Depending on the brand, it may only take a few minutes to pull the radio out of it's sleeve to check for the fuse. Usually, you can pop off the trim ring to see what you are working with.
No, a car alarm will not go off if the car alarm is dead. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FGTECH Adapters
You never replace a fuse that blows with a higher amp one . That's a good way to set your car on fire ,melting wiring etc.... The fan isn't blowing harder ,drawing to much current . lower resistance in the circuit .
Why is all this happening.????? Because you have electrical problems . Do voltage drop testing on the problem circuits , testing with a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter .
Where did you fine this fuse for The radiator fan is blowing to hard and is killing the fuse.So went from a 10 to a 15. My service info states it take's a 30 amp fuse . An it has two cooling fan relay , an a droping resistor . Unless your mixed up on your fan's , Heater blower motor fan ? From reading your post , i'd say you don't know anything about automotive repair . Suggest you take your vehicle to the dealer . We know your vehicle better then anyone else .
A voltmeter is NOT the correct tool to check for an "ignition-off draw". A voltmeter will show 12 volts if ANYTHING is operating.
There are some things that are SUPPOSED to keep operating when the vehicle is shut off. These include, but are not limited to: > Powertrain Control Module keep-alive memory > Radio preset memory > Clock > Security/ alarm system > Remote control recievers (door locks, etc.)
What you need to know is how many AMPS are being drawn from the battery when the vehicle is shut off. This is done by using a shunt bar connected between the battery terminal and the battery cable connector.
Set the ammeter to the lowest setting (usually 2 or 5 amp scale) Connect the ammeter leads accross the shunt bar. Turn off all electrical accessories, ignition switch, etc. and wait for a minimum of 45 minutes for all of the computer systems to go into "sleep" mode. Then open the shunt bar and read the amperage.
The "rule of thumb" is 300 milliamps (or 0.3 amps). This is where you have a problem. Anything less than this is not a problem and is not the cause of your dead battery. My experience is that most vehicles built in the last 15 years or so, will usually measure around 150 milliamps if there is no aftermarket equipment installed. Please note that even this 150 milliamps will measure as 12 volts if measured with a volt meter. A 2 amp draw will also measure as 12 volts....However, a 2 amp draw will kill your battery overnight and the 150 milliamp draw won't.
Remove the battery from the car and charge it up first and then re install it.Some newer vehicles will disable the fuel pump if the battery voltage is low,even if it is jump started ,as it activates the anti theft system.
The alarm system just blows on these cars, its a fact.
I never use the key in the trunk because it will trigger the alarm.
I had some trouble with the alarm, and found out it was something to do with the cigarette lighter/cell phone charger connection. I simply don't use that anymore either. When the alarm triggers, and you cant turn it off with the key, it must be a fuse. The alarm will beep an annoying beep for 4 min, in that time i will disconnect the battery cable, find the blown fuse underneath the dash, replace it, and then reconnect the battery, at which time you will have to put your key in the door and disengage the alarm again, and breathe a sigh of relief. Keep a bunch of 15 or 20 amp fuses around and a 10 millimeter wrench or whatever for the battery terminal.
Good luck.
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