I'm replacing the clutch. I have removed all the bolts and separated the the housing slightly but cannot totally separate the two. I'm thinking I may be missing a step.

I am currently replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing on a 1996 Mitsubishi pajero gen-II 6g74 5-spd
I found loads of information on unbolting and un-plugging the electric's what I didn't find was information about separating the engine and transmission.
The thrust bearing is held in place by a cir-clip behind the pressure plate, the bearing fork is near imposable to access unless to two are separated.

note: I think it would've been best to do this when removing the hydraulic cylinder that moves the clutch fork as I had to re-bolt up the engine.

Here is how to do it !!
1: remove the two rubber inspection covers (one will be around the clutch fork) mine being r/h drive the fork is on the left-side, these are located either side of the gear box.
- Looking through the inspection ports you will see - thrust bearing, thrust bearing fork which is attached to the bearing via clips, back of pressure plate, gearbox input shaft.
2: you will need two long flat head screw drivers
3: you want to insert these between the thrust bearing and collar via the inspection ports to release the cir-clip
4: the thrust bearing and fork should now move freely on the splined shaft.

Still having problems ?
looking through the inspection holes - the collar shouldn't be visible (it looks like a spline)
- if it is !! you will need to move this further in to the pressure plate as the cir-clip wont have room to release behind the pressure plate.
- the point you are trying to insert the screw drivers into is between the collar and bearing (not the collar and pressure plate)
I was able to disengage the cir-clip for the trust bearing on the new pressure plate (on the bench) with a ball joint removal tool by a applying pressure to one side of the collar only - ( I don't think you can do this with the transmission in place as the thrust bearing fork gets in the way)
once removed - you will be able to separate the transmission and engine, unbolt the pressure plate, replace the clutch plate, unbolt the 10mm retaining bolt for the clutch fork which is located inside of the bell housing - knock up into the bell housing the frost plug this allows for the pin holding the fork to be removed (I did this by wiggling the fork back n forth and putting a piece of welding wire part way through the 10mm hole and pulling out through the frost plug hole).
hope this all helps someone...good luck

First you need to remove the Transaxle.

Manual Transaxle System REMOVAL

1. Remove the engine cover.
2. Remove the battery terminal.
3. Remove the air duct.
4. Remove the battery tray.
5. Remove the air cleaner.
(1) Upper
(2) Lower
6. Remove the back-up lamp switch.
7. After removing the CKP sensor, O2 sensor and oil pressure switch wiring bracket, separate the connectors.
8. Remove the brake fluid leveling sensor connector.
9. Remove the speedometer driven gear connector.
10. Remove the clutch release cylinder mounting bolt.
11. Remove the cotter pin of the shift cable (transaxle side).
12. Remove the cotter pin of the select cable. (transaxle side)
13. Remove the clip of the shift cable (transaxle side).
14. Remove the clip of the select cable (transaxle side).
15. Separate the steering column shaft joint.
16. Separate the power steering oil pump hose.
Be careful not to leak after separating.
17. Separate the hose after removing the clip of the power steering return hose.
18. Remove the upper connecting transaxle bolt.
19. Separate the start motor.
20. Install the engine support fixture.
21. After removing the tire, remove the caliper.
22. Remove the transaxle side cover.
23. Remove the transaxle side under cover.
24. Separate the tie rod end.
25. Remove the wheel speed sensor and the knuckle mounting bolt.
26. Drain the oil.
27. Remove the transaxle mounting bracket.
(1) Insulator bolt
(2) Body side mounting bolt (Upper)
(3) Body side mounting bolt (Side)
(4) Transaxle side mounting bolt.
28. Remove the front roll stopper.
(1) Insulator bolt
(2) Stopper bolt (Upper)
(3) Stopper bolt (Lower)
29. Remove the rear roll stopper.
(1) Insulator bolt
(2) Stopper bolt
30. Remove the drive shaft.
31. Remove the front muffler.
32. Remove the sub frame mounting bolt.
33. Install the transaxle jack.
34. Remove the transaxle lower mounting bolt to the engine.
35. Remove the transaxle assembly.

INSTALLATION
Installation is the reverse of the removal.

Then inspect and replace the clutch place and pressure plate.

INSTALLATION
1. Apply multipurpose grease to the release bearing contact surfaces and the release cylinder contact surface of the clutch release fork assembly.
When installing the clutch, apply grease to each part, but be careful not to apply excessive grease. It can cause clutch slippage and judder.
2. Apply multipurpose grease into the groove of the release bearing.
3. Apply multipurpose grease to the clutch release lever fulcrum contact surface of the clutch release fork assembly.
4. Clean the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate thoroughly with fine sandpaper or crocus cloth, and make certain that all oil or grease has been removed.
5. Apply a small amount of multipurpose grease to the clutch disc splines and input shaft splines.
Do not apply more grease than necessary. Too much grease could cause clutch slip or judder.
6. Using the special tool, install the clutch disc to the flywheel. When installing the clutch disc, be sure that the surface having the manufactures stamp is towards the pressure plate side.
7. Install the the clutch cover assembly onto the flywheel and install the six (6) bolts through the clutch cover into the flywheel.
8. Tighten the bolts by one or two turns at a time, in succession, to avoid bending the cover flange.
If a special tool is not available, tighten the bolt temporarily and then torque to specification in diagonal torquing sequence indicated below.
TIGHTENING TORQUE
Single mass flywheel:
15~22 N·m (150~220 kg·cm, 11~16 lb·ft)
Dual mass flywheel:
20~27 N·m (200~270 kg·cm, 14~19 lb·ft)
9. Remove the special tool.
10. Install the transaxle. (Refer to GROUP - Manual Transaxle Assembly)
11. Adjust the clutch pedal free-play. (See CH-6)
INSPECTION
1. Check the diaphragm spring end for wear and uneven height.
Replace if wear is evident or height difference exceeds the limit.
2. Check the pressure plate surface for wear, cracks and color change.
3. Check the rivets for looseness and replace the clutch cover assembly if necessary.
CLUTCH DISC
1. Check the clutch facing for loose rivets, uneven contact, deterioration due to seizure, adhesion of oil, or grease, and replace the clutch disc if defective.
2. Measure the rivet sink and replace the clutch disc if it is out of specification
3. Check for torsion spring play and damage and if defective, replace the clutch disc.
4. Clean the splines on the input shaft and install the clutch disc.
If the disc does not slide smoothly or if play is excessive, replace the clutch disc and/or the input shaft.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
The release bearing is packed with grease. Do not use cleaning solvent or oil.
1. Check the bearing for seizure, damage or abnormal noise. Also check the diaphragm spring contacting points for wear.
2. Replace the bearing if the release fork contacting points are worn abnormally.
INSTALLATION
Installation is the reverse of the removal.
Then remove pressure plate and Clutch plate.

1. Insert the special tool (that came with your clutch kit) in the clutch disc to prevent the disc from falling.
2. Loosen the bolts that attach the clutch cover to the flywheel in a star pattern.
3. Loosen the bolts in succession, one or two turns at a time, to avoid bending the cover flange.