93 ford probe - starter ground wire

95 escort, automatic tranny
At the starter motor, two voltage circuits, one comes from the battery, hot all the time. The other voltage circuit goes hot with the key in the crank position and is wired through the neutral switch. The ground for the starter motor is through engine block, grounds are important.

You may have to check your ignition switch, also check voltage to and from ignition switch. Your instrument cluster should get voltage feed from ignition switch. Anything electrical, you want to check voltage and ground for that system.
Your starter motor circuit usually has two voltage circuits, one comes straight from the battery, hot all the time. The other circuit goes hot with key in the crank position and is wired through the neutral or clutch switch, depending on the tranny. The starter usually grounds through the engine block. You may have a starter relay? I haven't looked at your wiring. Any testing at the starter make sure tranny is in park or neutral and the parking brake is set.

Check the starter ground wire.It might touch a hot wire.
Realize that the accessory or ignition wire stayed ground when the key is turned off.That's what will happen.Shorted wire stay constant and the key off stays grounded.Equal (Power+} and (Ground-) or check the ignition key switcht for short.

Don't believe it would be the ignition switch. It sounds like the starter relay may be stuck in the on position. Find the starter relay and pull it out. One terminal would be hot at all times-use a test light grounded to engine block and probe the relay terminals. Should only have one terminal showing power. Now have someone hold the key in start position. Now you should have two terminals showing power, and when key is released to the run position, the second hot terminal should stop showing power.
If it works like this, try a new relay, or a known good one. If second terminal still shows power without key being in start (cranking) position, then it may be the ignition switch or the wiring and connections between the switch and the starter relay.
You will keep burning starters out till fixed. Starters that are run more than a few seconds at a time will get too hot and burn out.

Check your injector wiring on the non-firing side. Each injector has a hot wire and a ground wire to it. Check for a power signal with key on, and check the ground wire from injector to computer for continuity. You could use a test light clipped to the positive battery post, with the probe in the ground side of injector connector. Now crank the engine over and the test light should be flashing, if the ground wiring is correct.

Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil? red wire with lite green tracer, use a test lite to check voltage, goes hot with key on, circuit is fuse protected.

Check your injector circuit. It will also let you know if the PCM is allowing the injectors to energize. Here's how:
Pull off one injector connector. Turn key to on. Use a test light and clip the black lead of tester to ground, Use the tester's probe to probe both wires in the injector connector. One of the wires should have power and light the testlight, meaning the injector power circuit is working. Now for the injector ground circuit.
Move the black lead of testlight to the battery positive post. Now probe the wire in the connector that did not light up. Have someone crank the car over. When cranking the test light SHOULD be blinking, meaning the PCM is properly grounding the injectors to work. If both wires passed the test, your injector circuit is good.
If it's not working,either the power circuit from ignition switch to injectors is out (no steady light), or the ground circuit from injectors to PCM is not working (no blinking light).
Good luck, post back with results for further assistance.

Dead or weak battery, corroded or loose terminals, bad cable, bad solenoid (starter relay), bad ignition switch, bad neutral safety interlock, driver forgot to put car in park or neutral before starting, bad wiring. When you turn the key, do you hear anything, like maybe a clicking noise, or is the car completely silent?

have you replaced the ignition switch? not the key cylinder but the actual electrical switch, they are prone to this type of failure, pull the covers off the steering column and test the switch.

make sure you have power to the b+ terminal of starter. Also make sure you got power to the ignition terminal on starter with key in the crank possition. With key in the crank possition check that power is being tranfered from solenoid to motor. If all these check ok replace starter. If no power in the ign(small gage wire on starter) possible ignition switch or p/n safety switch. If no powere on B+ check battery, battery cablem fusible link.