I have no spark coming form my quoil, i had to re place a seal on the transmission so i had to take out the transmission and put it back and now my 96 Cadillac Eldorado

remove the drive shaft ( tail shaft) lever out the old seal. put sealer around new seal and fit back in extension housing. Use something that is the same size as the outer edge of the seal and tap it in flush with the edge of the transmission housing. Expect some oil to drain out when the tail shaft and seal is removed

there is a seal in the front of the housing that the shaft of the converter seals on

Need to inspect closer and make sure the exact place the oil is coming from....Most common places that leak are around valve pan cover which is located on top of motor and in alot of cases can run down back of motor onto transmission or bottom or motor. Another place is the oil pan which is located on bottom of motor. If leaking from either of these you would need to replace the gaskets. Two other places that are common for leaks is the front and rear seals in the motor. Try cleaning bottom half of motor off with a degreaser in the area where you see yhe oil dripping and then you should be able to see exactly where it is coming from. If the leak is underneath where the transmission is bolted to the motor this would indicate that the rear seal is bad. To replace it you will have to take transmission out to do this and if this is the case and your truck has a automatic transmission have that seal replaced also. Yhe reason for this is if you have to take transmission out then you may as well change transmission seal also but remember only if the transmission is a automatic.....hope this helps and good luck....Please rate this post...

check your spark plugs, usually you need change it every 30,000 miles...





How to change?


http://www.ehow.com/video_110_replace-spark-plugs.html





Hope this helps

It does not have one. The car has a sealed transmission, which means that you have to take it to the shop in order for them to tell you if it needs oil or maintenance.

It sounds like you have the seal crimped which is a common issue. Pull and clean the old seal off both the pan and the transmission. Apply a thin steady bead of Form-A-Gasket to the pan and the transmission where the seal makes contact and then carefully replace the pan with the seal in place and tighten all the bolts to 20 lbs torque. Then to 30 lbs torque, be careful not to strip any bolts by over tightening. Let this setup for at least 30 minutes. When you put the bolts back in place, start with one in the center of the pan at 12 o'clock, then 6 o'clock, then 3 then 9 then replace the corners and fill in the rest working from side to side until they are all in place.

If you put a cardboard under you car and let the car run for a while then you might find out where the oil is leaking form and also you can let it under the car over night and check it the day after to locate where it comes from because the only places that it could be coming from is the right side of the engine wish could be the oil pan gasket or behind the torque converter from the seal or form the axles seal. and also from the left side which still could be the oil pan gasket or from the shaft seal. Or in the meddle of the car which could be the drain Or the oil pan gasket. Good luck Bro

Hi Friend: My name is David i'll be Assissting you today.

#1) First get you a Drain Pan put underneath truck where the Tail Shaft is located you'll loose some fluid when you remove the Rear Transmission Seal.

#2) You might need to Jack up thr rear of your Truck to give you more work space.And Secure your Truck with good jack stands and Also Put some Wheel Chucks (Blocks in Front of your front Wheels to prevent it from rolling forward on you.

#3) Next you'll need to remove your Drive Shaft, There are Four (4) Nuts on the Rear of the Drive line where it connects to your Rear End on the Front Side of 3rd Member.

#4) The (4) Nuts are Hold 2-U-Clamps 2- Nuts per Clamp, Take off the 4 nuts Tap the drive line with a Plastic Mallet this will loosen up the U-Bolts Save all your Nuts ,you'll need them to put back on the U-Bolts to get Drive line back in and Tight.

#5) You might have to use a small pry bar to FREE Up the Drive line Universal Joints and push the Drive line Forward just enough to get Drive line away from the Rear End.NOTE: becareful not to let the 4-Universal Caps come off the Universal Joint.Take some Black Tape and Just Wrap it Around ALL 4-Of the Caps to hold in place until your ready to put back in.

#6) Now Pull back on the Whole Drive Line Slowly and it will Come out of the Rear of your transmission.Thats where your Rear Seal is Located.

#7) Get the Proper Tool to Remove the Rear Seal from the Tail housing, (Seal Remover) and remove it from the transmission.

#8) Now Using a Seal In-Staller You'll line your new seal up to the Tail of your Transmission.Evenly And Tap your New Seal in ,it must be Tapped all the way in until its flush with the Tail Housing.

#9) Now you just Reverse the Removal Instructions( take Off the Tape) and put your Drive line back in. Just put your truck in Neutral so you can get the Rear Cups to line back up in the rear end.

#10) Make Sure you are lined up now put your U-Bolts back in.
And the Nuts on and Tighten up good and Tight.

Don't forget to put back the Transmission Fluid Lost.and after Starting Check and Make sure your Transmission Fluid is up to the FULL line.

This will get you back on the Road Sir.Thank You for Using FixYa Please let me know how my solution has helped you by Voting Thanks Again. From: d_hubbs

Replacing the rear transmission seal involves removing the driveshaft for access.

Depending on the ground clearance of the vehicle, you may need to raise the rear of the car and support it on safety stands. Please make sure that the car is completely stable before continuing any work if you do need to raise it.

You will need some tools, mainly the correct sized wrenches or socket set to fit the bolts and nuts that must be removed. A large screwdriver will come in handy, a hammer, a marking tool, tape and if the transmission has fluid in it, you should have a container for catching any fluid that will leak out. You will of course need the correct seal for the back of the transmission and transmission fluid of the correct type to replace any that leaks out during this procedure.

The first step is to mark the location of the driveshaft in relation to the connection on the rear end. Using chalk or some type of marker, make a mark on the driveshaft and also the pinion yoke. This yoke is the part that the driveshaft universal joint is bolted too. Once that is done, you can start unbolting the caps or straps that are holding the universal joint to the rear end. With those connections out of the way, gently use the screwdriver to lever the driveshaft forward far enough for the universal to clear the pinion yoke. Now drop the back of the driveshaft down and using the tape, wrap a few runs around the universal joint and its caps. This will keep them from falling off and getting dirt in the caps which can damage the inner bearings.

Now you are ready to remove the driveshaft. While not very heavy, it can be a bit tough to handle while laying under a vehicle. Take your time and simply pull the driveshaft backwards until the front input shaft slides out of the transmission. With the container in place, any fluid that escapes should be caught. You can now lay the driveshaft to the side, but place a rag underneath the input shaft to minimize any dirt being picked up.

You can now remove the rear seal from the transmission. Normally using the screwdriver and being careful to only pry on the seal, you should be able to lever out the seal. You may need to work your way around the seal, levering it out a little bit at a time, but it will come out. With the seal out, wipe the seal area to remove any dirt, fluid, etc. I prefer to put a touch of sealant around the outside circumference of the seal (painted area), but it is not mandatory, just a little insurance. Using the hammer, carefully tap the seal back into place. Take your time and do not damage or bend the rubber seal area.

Now you can put the driveshaft back in, but here are a couple of tips. First, place the gear selector in neutral, this will help you line up the back of the driveshaft with the marks that you made during removal. Second, wipe the rubber of the seal with just a touch of transmission fluid to lubricate it.

Once you have the driveshaft input shaft back in the transmission, you will need to line up your marks on the driveshaft and rear pinion yoke. You should be able to rotate the driveshaft as needed, then remove the tape and push the driveshaft back in place. Replace the caps or straps, start the bolts, then put the gear selector back in park. Now you can tighten down the bolts or nuts as required.

Safely lower the car back to the ground, top up the transmission fluid as required and you are finished.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions concerning this issue.

There are 3 places it could be coming from. (1) The outer rubber seal on the pump between it and the case (2) The metal clad seal in the center of the pump that seals against the converter hub (3) And, the 5 bolts that hold the pump in have washers under them. The seal around the outside likes to get hard and brittle with age, especially if it has gotten hot before, leading to cracks that leak. The converter seal will wear naturlaly from doing it's job and more so if the pump bushing is wore out. The bolts that hold the pump in can get loose because of vibration letting oil out around the threads and out into the world.

If you pull it out and don't find loose bolts or obvious signs of a leak, then I suggest changin out all the places I mentioned. If you take the trans out and tip it on it's ****, then the pump comes out with a couple slide pullers. Be careful not to let the clutch-pack(inputshaft) slide out any, this will make going back together easier. There is a gasket between the inside of the pump and the case that will most likely need replaced too so get that as well; it seals all the ports and passages around the pump. Replace the outer square "O"-ring and the metal clad seal in the middle, then lube the outer seal and set the pump in place. Line it up and drive it in with the handle of any hammer. Torque it down(23ft. lbs.) with new washers for the bolts or new bolts with integeral washers. Be sure to loctite the threads as well to prevent them loosening up. Wiggle turn the input shaft to double check it isn't bound up and then just put it back in the car.

It sounds like a pain and it can be, but, it's easy after you do a couple thousand. Just like falling off a log. Hopefully you just have to do it once.