My car won't start, power to everything up until you turn the key the last bit.

The main fuse blew. Look in your fuse box for a big fuse it should be labeled main or master fuse. Replace this fuse and vehicle should work everything but maybe the starting issues. You have a short somewhere. If the fuse blows again or the car won't start repost the problem

If it's an automatic check fuse #15 wether it's a stick or automatic you should have power at the red & black wire coming out of your ignition switch when you turn key to start postion and power at the red wire going into switch at all times. if no power coming oit on the red/black wire you need an ignition switch. if there is power coming out of switch try putting car in nuetral (for auto trans). if still nothing you'll need to check for power at small wire going to starter when key is turned to start. if has power then need starter if no power you'll need to check starter interlock relay.

check the battery, battery connections and your ground to the engine block. Make sure everything is clean. It is usually a bad connection.

he ignition switch generally has four positions: off, accessories, on, and start. Some cars have two off positions, off and lock; one turns off the car, and the other allows the key to be removed from the ignition. When the key is turned to the accessories position, certain accessories, such as the radio, are powered; however, accessories that use too much battery power, such as window motors, remain off in order to prevent the car's battery from being drained. The accessories position uses the least amount of battery power when the engine is not running, which is why drive-in movie theaters recommend that the car be left in theaccessories mode during the movie.

The on position turns on all of the car's systems, including systems such as the fuel pump, because this is the position the ignition switch remains in while the car's engine is running. The start position is spring loaded so that the ignition switch will not remain there when the key is released. When the key is inserted into the ignition switch lock cylinder and turned to the start position, the starter engages; when the key is released, it returns to the on position, cutting power to the starter. This is because the engine runs at speeds that the starter cannot match, meaning that the starter gear must be retracted once the engine is running on its own.

Either the ignition switch or the lock cylinder may fail in a car, but both circumstances have very different symptoms. When the ignition switch fails, generally the electrical wiring or the plastic housing develops problems. The car may not turn on and/or start when this happens. Also, the spring-loaded start position could malfunction, in which case the starter will not engage unless the key is manually turned back to the on position.

When the lock cylinder malfunctions, however, the operation of the key itself will become problematic. If the tumblers become stripped, the lock cylinder may be able to turn with any key, or you may be able to remove the key when the car is on. If the tumblers begin to shift, the lock cylinder may not turn. Sometimes the key can be wiggled until the lock cylinder turns, but it is important to remember that this is only a temporary fix.

Replacing an ignition switch can be tricky business, particularly in newer cars, because of the anti-theft devices used in cars. Once the ignition switch is separated from the back of the lock cylinder, the car can be started with a screwdriver, making it vital that this switch be difficult to get to. It is important to consult a shop manual before attempting this kind of repair, as the anti-theft devices may require special tools; attempting to remove an ignition switch without the proper tools can render the car inoperable.

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First check your fuel pressure it should be 41-47 psi with key on and engine off if its below 32 psi replace the fuel pump and filter.If fuel pump checks out to be good then take ignition switch out and check for burned ignition switch wires and worn ignition key tumblers and ignition lock cylinder.These cars are known for faulty ignition switches and ignition lock cylinders.Ignition switch gets to hot then it won't start until it cools off.

Is the security light on or blinking?If not then do you have power to the starter.You can check this with a test light.You should have power when you turn the key to start.The test light should light up.Should be the small wire.I believe it is purple in color.If the security light is on then you will have to get the codes to see what is causing the no start.Hope this helps.Good luck.

Sounds like the ignition switch has gone kaput. The ignition switch come in two pieces, an electrical switch and a mechanical switch.

The switch electrical portion can be replaced separatly from the mechanical portion (tumbler that the key engages). It is not a real difficult repair but requires some mechanical knowlege of how the column is assembled.

This can be verified with electrical test equipment prior to buying a new electrical switch.

The ignition switch should be on the underside of the steering column -- it's connected to the switch key cylinder by a rod. The switch may have burned contacts or loose connectors or it may just need adjusting (i.e., the rod may not be properly engaging the switch).

Charlie

U will need to replace the ignition switch, this is not the key cylinder but the actual electrical switch the key cylinder operated. see photo. I noted that on your model Honda the switch comes with a new key cylinder, you can just use the switch and use your old cylinder over or install the new parts together.

The key cylinder would be a last resort - it's remotely possible that either the key or the cylinder has become worn enough that it doesn't work right. It's more likely that the ignition switch has gone out again, but if you bought a new one, that doesn't seem all that likely either. If it is the switch, and something is killing it, I wonder whether the alternator or voltage regulator is going bad on you - if it's putting too much current into the system (or if the starter is getting weak and drawing too much current), maybe that could be causing the issue. Another idea would be to check out and maybe replace the starter relay - if it's allowing too much current flow, that could cause the switch to cook too. I hate to say it, but these are all just guesses - a recurring problem like yours could be the switch, but it sounds like something in the system is just allowing too much juice through and it's killing parts of your car.