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Driver's side power window working, but all three passenger windows died at same time. How to assess issue? (i.e., fuses to check, etc.)
Hello all,
A month ago, all three passenger-side power windows decided not to work anymore; however, the driver's side continues to work flawlessly.
There were no strange noises/grinding of motors/etc., they just stopped working when I got in the car after parking for an hour. (They were working perfectly previous to this.)
Using the charts found here (http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/1702w-find-fuse-diagram-1997-nissan-maxima-gle.html), I've checked fuses #56 and "f" under the hood, and #12 in the passenger compartment; all seem fine.
Is there another fuse I should be checking? What would be the next item(s) to check?
I can't imagine all three motors/window assemblies died at one time, so am assuming it's an electrical issue somewhere. Please advise.
For the record, all* other electrical devices appear to be working (e.g., driver's window, sunroof, internal/external lights, door locks, side-mirrors, power seat, AC, etc.). There are no indicator lights that stay on to speak of, and everything else is running very well.
* The dash clock comes on and off randomly (loose wiring?), and the power antennae broke-off so can't tell.
Thank you for you assistance,
Geoff
Re: Driver's side power window working, but all three...
Check the window lock out. You may have pushed that on accident. It locks the passenger and rear windows so people dont use them when the driver wants to control window operation.. Usually for annoying kids :) The window lock out usually has a pic of a window with an "X" or a pic of a window with the word "lock"
If that is not it, It sounds like the controls went bad. This happens from time to time. When liquids get onto the window controls its common that some go out and or they all go out. I would put my best guess on the window lock out.
Only true and accurate way to check is manually see if power is exiting the window controller to the rear windows and or passenger window... you would need a Volt meter to watch voltage.
Testimonial: "WOW! I was *sure* I checked the WIndow Lock-Out switch before... but that WAS it! So simple and right in front of my face! SMH
Thank you so much for the fast response! I'm a goof! lol"
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The following components are used to control the power windows:
• Driver door module (DDM)
• Passenger front door module (PDM)
• LH rear door module (LRDM)
• RH rear door module (RRDM)
• Driver door switch assembly (DDSA)
• RH front power window switch
• LH rear power window switch
• RH rear power window switch
• LH front power window motor
• RH front power window motor
• LH rear power window motor
• RH rear power window motor
• Class 2 serial data link
• DR MOD PWR C/B 30 Amp circuit breaker
• DRIVER DR MOD 10 Amp fuse -- DDSA and DDM logic, DDM internal driver operation.
• PSGR DR MOD 10 Amp fuse -- PDM logic and internal driver operation.
• REAR DR MOD 15 Amp fuse -- LRDM and RRDM logic and internal driver operation
Not a fuse,Most likely a grounding issue with the switch or maybe switch needs replaced. This is a common problem with power windows and 9 times out of 10 it is in the one on the drivers side even though its the passenger window giving the problem...driver side controls all power supply....may be loose connection. Check that first...hope this helps and if so Please leave a rating on this post..
Well, the short answer is no. The lights and windows are are different fuses. There's a slight chance you have a problem with a ground wire on that side, but I doubt the two problems are related. I would check the light for power and ground, and look at the window switches for power and ground. The windows are powered thru the driver switch on most cars.
you most likely have a power/ground/switch issue in the drivers door. the power for the other three doors must first travel through the switches in the driver door before it goes to the passengers. hence the reason why when somebody rolls down a passenger window and you push the up button on the driver door the window stops moving. the wires can break inside the rubber boot in the door jam. you can also have an internal problem with the driver door switch unit. you would need a wiring diagram to diagnose this concern.
No.The drivers master power switch is probably bad.YOu will have to perform a test on the three other switches on the master. Check for power and ground when you push each putton.If the master switch fails the test you need a new master switch.
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