How to install ram 5.9 piston rings - 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab

What you need to do is lift the car take out the wheel where crank shaft is,
also know as the harmonic balancer

Do you mean the whole job or just putting the rings on the piston that has been removed and cleaned?? If you mean the whole job then you need a service manual. Also the parts store can show you how to install the rings on the pistons.

I assume that you're referring to piston rings. You should have received an instruction sheet with the engine kit detailing the ring installation procedure for your application. The following drawing may be helpful.

broken/worn piston ring(s). Each piston has 2 rings. These can be replaced by the DIY mechanic by
1) removing head of engine (remove head gasket - you'll replace it), then
2) manually wind the engine (with a ratchet wrench & socket) til the piston in question pops up
3) remove both rings (with ring pliers - available from any auto parts store)
4) install 2 new rings (with a ring installation collar - available at any auto parts store)
--- choose ring installation tool to the correct size for your pistons.
5) re-install head of engine (replacing head gasket)

Note that this procedure preserves the engine timing, so you need not reset it.

It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods

1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
   1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
   2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
   3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
   4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
   5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge
      
      
   6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert
      
   
   
2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston
   
   
4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer
   
   
5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).

OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY

1. Install the camshaft.
2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.

CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).

OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.

Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.

1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
   Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
   
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.

Which Piston Ring Gap? First of all you need to purchase a Hayne's Manual for your car. It will give you the specifications under the Engine section of the book. The piston has three rings on it. From the top you have your first compression ring, then your second compression ring (these "clearance" specifications or "gap"), should be the same as measured on the piston insofar as the clearance between the "lands and grooves" or between the ring and the piston groove. The third ring is your oil control ring which will have a different clearance between (for example), the top of the ring installed and the piston's groove. Then lastly, you need to place the compression rings and place them in the bore of the cylinder WITHOUT being installed on the piston. A measurement is then taken between the opening gap of the ring while in the block. To make sure it's lined up properly, invert a non-ringed piston down into the bore from the top to make sure the ring is installed at the same depth all the way around.

If you don't want to buy the Hayne's Manual, just stop by your local Dealership and get the Specifications for the two compression rings, the oil ring and the "installed" clearance or gap on the rings.

Hope this Helps,

~00 Buck~

"Still living on the Right Side of Dirt..."

Sounds a whole lot like you have a broken ring or failed ring-land on a piston. Do another compression test or cylinder leak-down test to find the bad one. (likely if it's that bad, one plug will likely already be oil fouled as well)

Rings & bearings & oil pump need urgent attention!
Cheers Rob

If you are that deep into things you will do poorly without a good manual. Are the pistons new or used?If they are used you need to completly clean the ring grooves in the pistons or the new rings will stick and gall.Did you remove the ridge at the top of the cylinders? If not there is a good the top ring will either break or bust the upper land off of the piston. Hopefully you had a machine shop go through the block. Check the ring manufacture's web site. I am sure they will have tips and instructions.