While replacing timing belt on my 2003 pt cruiser (2.4 liter) I got the belt on with the crank pulley and compression pulley (top front) in timing but exhaust pulley (top rear) off by one tooth. Took belt off and tried moving pulley clockwise one tooth to get it in timing and it slipped clockwise about 40-45 degrees. I turned it counterclockwise back into timing and got the belt on in perfect timing. Went to do usual 720 degree turn to check timing and it got stuck about 45 degrees into the first turn. Did my mishap with the one pulley make the valves catch on each other? If so, could I have bent the valves by wrench and hand? What do I do now?

SOURCE: Timing Belt and Intake and Exhaust Valves..

At least engine head must be removed for inspection and repair. When head removed you can estimate also if any damage on pistons top surface.

SOURCE: 1992 toyota celica 2.2 timing belt broke.i turned

well hold on there cowboy, first consult your service manual if your cars engine is an interference type. it means that if ever your timing belt breaks the valves that were stranded shall be hammered by up moving piston. eventually bending and warping of some of the valves would be a result. sometimes a damaged piston could also happen. timing belt breakage is a very serious matter and should not be taken likely. if you do not have a manual, what i do is removing the whole cyclinder head and inspect it. its better to be sure than sorry. in other cases you could see the warped valves by turning the crankshaft from tdc to 90 deg. and after which try turning the camshaft all the way around and carefully feeling the ease or difficulty in turning it and also the lift and rest of the rocker arms. any deviations you from the standard filler guage clearances would mean a bent or broken valves. hope this helps.

SOURCE: timing slipped will it bend intake, exhaust or both sets of valve

First of all, you'll want to perform what's called a 'LEAK-DOWN' test. The assumption you make (regarding Intake versus exhaust) is irrevelant. Interferrence is BOTH intake and exhaust valve clearances. A leak down or "cylinder leakage" test is similar to a compression test in that it tells you how well your engine's cylinders are sealing. But instead of measuring pressure, it measures pressure loss.
A leak down test requires the removal of all the spark plugs. The crankshaft is then turned so that each piston is at top dead center (both valves closed) when each cylinder is tested. Some people start with cylinder number one and follow the engine's firing order.
A threaded coupling attached to a leakage gauge is screwed into a spark plug hole. Compressed air (80 to 90 psi) is then fed into the cylinder. You don't have to use that much pressure... you can use 30 psi... percentages are the same.
An engine in great condition should generally show only 5 to 10% leakage. An engine that's still in pretty good condition may show up to 20% leakage. But more than 30% leakage indicates trouble.
The neat thing about a leakage test (as opposed to a compression test) is that it's faster and easier to figure out where the pressure is going. If you hear air coming out of the tailpipe, it indicates a leaky exhaust valve. Air coming out of the throttle body or carburetor would point to a leaky intake valve. Air coming out of the breather vent or PCV valve fitting would tell you the rings and/or cylinders are worn.
A leakage test can also be used in conjunction with a compression test to diagnose other kinds of problems.
A cylinder that has poor compression, but minimal leakage, usually has a valvetrain problem such as a worn cam lobe, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter, bent push rod, etc.
If all the cylinders have low compression, but show minimal leakage, the most likely cause is incorrect valve timing. The timing belt or chain may be off a notch or two.
If compression is good and leakage is minimal, but a cylinder is misfiring or shows up weak in a power balance test, it usually indicates a fuel delivery (bad injector) or ignition problem (fouled spark plug or bad plug wire). These are not ABSOLUTE conclusions -- each assumption must be VERIFIED before concluding anything. You mentioned "the lifters seem to be collapsed."... Did you VERIFY this? Since you KNOW the engine is OUT - OF - TIME because you KNOW the timing belt has SLIPPED, then you know you must PUT IT BACK IN TIME... right?...before you can continue diagnosis.... right? Otherwise, what are you MEASURING?

SOURCE: 2001 hyundai accent 1.5 liter SOHC 12v engine.

With regrets, Not likely, pull the vlave cover and observe the height of the valves, if it is bent it should be not quite as tall as the rest.

SOURCE: 2006 pt cruiser on drivers side rear turn signal

The turn signals flash depends on each and every bulb working correctly. When one bulb fails, you will notice a change in the flash frequency, as you describe.

Replace or repair the bulb that is not working, and you should be good to go.

Doc