Getting a code for smog pump

Remove the pump, either get a idler pulley to replace the smog pump for the belt or measure for smaller belt. Crimp or plug all lines that are associated with the smog pump.

You will need to go to either a specialist auto electrician or a Kia dealership to find out what the problem is as any P1*** code is specific to the manufacturer so could be anything. Dealership usually means dealership prices but they have the correct information for each Kia car.

How do you know the pump is defective, what is the code?

only thing i can think of is getting a hold of a repair manual for the car and finding it in there.

The tube is part of the air pump, you will just remove the hoses and then any other valves that are bolted to the pump,
If you are getting the correct aftermarket pump you will see what needs to be reused and what does not . here is a picture of the replacement pump , You will need the pulley. hope this is helpful. good day. here are a few pics of the new one ...

According to the information that I have (which is extremely limited because Volvo does not like to give up such things) neither the 2.4L, 5-cylinder or the 2,5L Turbo 5-cylinder engines are equipped with downstream air injection. Therefore, there would be no "smog pump". Why are you looking for it?

The secondary Air pump is the smog pump. It's located underneath the radiator support on the passenger side behind the oil filter access cover. and has an extra piece attached to it for air flow from the intake to the output. once you get the bracket out take it apart and you'll see they are the same

Here is a video link to removing the Air injection pump (AKA Smog Pump). As far as tools go you will need a full set of standard hand tools. Smog pump delete Ford 302 5 0 Crown Victoria LTD

VOLVO STARTED USING THIS SYSTEM IN 1996 AND 1997 850 MODELS IT IS AN AIR PUMP --------------SMOG PUMP TO MEET EPA EMISSIONS THE DIAGRAM OF THE SYSTEM IS LOCATED UNDER THE HOOD AND SHOULD TELL YOU WHERE THE VALVE IS LOCATED THERE ARE MANY ECU SYSTEMS USED ON VOLVOS AND THIS SHOULD PUT YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION IF YOU STILL HAVE A PROBLEM GIVE ME THE 2 BIG NUMBERS ON THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT ECU

I will list some of my experiences with similar problems.

V-belt quality and grade vary a lot and I do mean a lot. Belts can take a set from sitting--anybody with a table saw will attest to this. I would try a new belt first after finding a good parts man. A good alternator shop (rare today) can help here. The smog pump belt is an easy one to change. Try the cheap stuff first.

Smog pumps in my experience do not need a lot of power, especially at idle, but I have had bearing and pump failure on several wipe out a belt. Pull the belt and spin the smog pump by hand.

Belts can glaze and it is not necessarily noticeable. Stamped-steel pulleys polish smooth and won't transmit the power needed. Pulleys can also wear in some strange shapes so a new belt does not fit properly. See if an alternator shop has a cast iron pulley for the alternator. Cast iron does not polish smooth and also wears off any glaze from the belt surfaces. The crank pulleys are stamped-steel but are larger in diameter with a longer wrap angle so slippage is not a problem there.

In my poor days I tried sanding the belts and pulleys to remove the glaze. Too much work and it was only temporary.

I have used a cast iron pulley on a 110 amp alternator with a winch load. A stamped-steel pulley would just smoke the belt when under load (winch drew 225 amps total!). My truck is 70 amp and that is the biggest alternator Ford has with a V-belt that I know of.

I considered removing my smog pump and associated hardware. My experience has been to leave everything intact unless I can replace everything with an earlier, non-smog engine. Doing everything piecemeal has just caused other problems.

Hope this helps.