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Anonymous Posted on Dec 12, 2017

Upon starting my 2009 VW CC Luxury I receive a Warning: Parking Brake message. The brake will not unlock and I have to restart the engine. It then appears that the issue is resolved and the car works fine. What does the message mean? Is it a software load problem or something more serious?

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artie g

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  • Volkswagen Master 873 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 12, 2017
artie g
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Parking brakes on cc are motor driven. When you pull up lever a motor applies emergency brake pads to the rotors to keep you car from rolling back. Have a mechanic pull the rear wheel and watch the pads as someone applies the brake. If it sticks the motor or solenoid in the wheel may need to be replaced as it is binding

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 05, 2009

SOURCE: Brake Problem on 2004 VW Passat

You have to get CV Boots replaced, this happens because they split. What happen was something got stuck inside the axel where the little boots is held on and split that little piece of rubber (its easy to do). As a result, fluid leaks and and spashes on the back tires so you never know it happens. When you make turns the car will make a clicking noise. You can add fluid but, it will continue to leak out if those boots are split so, you have to replace the boots. I had to replace the boots and axel because the boots come on the axel. Its an expensive project. Boots, axel and labor $500 starting if you go through the dealer. Also, if you have an extended warranty they won't cover it because there is no time frame when these boots split it just something that can happen. Honestly, they know this is something common especially if you drive through snow.

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Anonymous

  • 109 Answers
  • Posted on May 12, 2009

SOURCE: message system reads "engine system maintenance required"

WHAT HAPPENED IS WHEN YOU SHUT DOWN AND RESTARTED YOU (RESET THE ENGINE MANAGEMENT COMPUTER) AND THE SERVICE LIGHT SHOULD GO OUT AFTER 10 MINUTES OF DRIVING

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jun 13, 2009

SOURCE: 2003 VW Jetta TDI Check Engine Light Issue

Try disconnecting the battery (unhook on of the terminals) wait for like 15 mins, hook the terminal once again and start the car. I also own a 2003 Jetta and once my engine light would come on after 2 mins of driving. Disconnecting the battery is like resetting the computer and hopefully the sensor.

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 19, 2009

SOURCE: VW Passat STOP brake fault warning

Check the fluid level in the resevoir. If it is low then top it up. However, it went low for a reason - maybe it's just because your brake pads starting to wear out or you could possibly have a brake fluid leak.

If your in any doubt have a pro check it out.

raygin

Raygin

  • 322 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 09, 2010

SOURCE: Why doesn't the eletronic parking brake work?

Try a reset of the park brake.
Make sure you have your radio code.!!
Disconnect the battery - leave for 10 Min's.
Reconnect.
Turn ignition on. If fault has not reset - try the following
Apply foot brake (not too hard)
Apply park-brake switch following instructions on the message center.

Use this method for any park brake fault as most of the time it fixes the minor problems caused by glitches and low battery voltage.
hope this helps good luck

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VW golf mk4 press brake warning light not coming on

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Bulletin from Jaguar :

Electronic Park Brake (EPB)
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Why does the parking break light stay on in my 97 Olds Cutlas Supreme. I have checked the level of the break fluid and it is full. I did have new break lines put in last year. I did have to slam on my...

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Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...

Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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Brake warning lamp on steady only when engine running. Brake fluid level is ok. General brake operation is normal. When park brake set, brake warning lamp is brighter. Is it possible that the rear brake...

No.
It might be in the switch for the parking brake. Try to release it a little more with your hands. It's either in the parking brake system or the regular brake system. Anything ABS has it's own warning light. Have it checked by a tech; it's a safety item, ok?
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