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C0221, C0222 are your left and right wheel speed sensors. C0237 is your rear wheel speed sensor. It looks like your computer has lost contact with all of your speed sensors and can't tell how fast you are going and is basically freaking out. Check your ABS and Traction Control(if you have T/C) fuses. Other than that, I would seek help of a good diagnostic mechanic.
so read the service manual on that code yet?
be like first, (rare car ,data lacking for free,
why not go Mitchell DIY and read real truth there, on your car.
rumors
C0221 FR Open or shorted ...
clear no?
damage there
sensor bad, wires wrecked,there
or super loose wheel bearing there(and very dangerous)
Hi there, provided your tyres have been fitted correctly, like others have said there are a few reasons why you can experience what we call a shudder through the steering under braking and what normally feels worse when braking from 100kph/60mph rather then from 50kph/30mph, if you do have warped front discs/rotors they will need to be checked but a common cause for steering shudder also along side warped brake discs are the control arm bushes which is item #7 in the pic supplied and they fit into item #6, these can be seen quite easily with the front of the vehicle jacked up it is the lower control arm seen going from the bottom of the front wheel suspension assembly to forward of the front wheel to cross member/ sub frame, with the vehicle jacked you can see the rubber inside the bush itself to see whether it's cracked, be sure that when they are being replaced as is with all suspension bushes the vehicle must be rested back on its wheels before tightening the bolt item #8 as this is the normal working position of the bush and not in the jacked up position.
Check your wheel berrings by jacking up the frount of the car up until the wheels are off of the ground and then see if the tire wiggles around if it does the berring is shot if the tire is solid then the berring should be fine
You forgot to state front or rear, take off the tire remove the grease cap with plyers remove cotter pin remove nut, remove washer, wiggle the hub and outer berring will fall out. The inner berring may be pressed into the back of the hub. If so you will have to knock it out with a hammer. Getting it back in could be difficult. It can also be hammered back in. ( the new berrings must be repacked with grease by you) This is a process whereas you force grease into the berring. The install the hub install the outer berring put on washer tighten nut with plyers then back off 1/8 turn. install pin install cap install tire. after 50 miles of driving lift car and wiggle tire with hands to feel for any play in the berring....because this is your first time!
make sure the wheel hub surfaces are clean and free of rust both in front of and behind the rotors. also check that your rear brake adjusters are working correctly. also check wheel berring, balljoint and tierod ends for play. theres should be no play and berring should spin free of noise.
do not replace only the bearing. replace hub assembly. remove rim/tire , remove caliper, mounting plate, rotor. . un bolt hub assembly, unplug abs. remove front axle nut if 4x4. you may need to rent the axle nut remove kit and hub puller. pull out hub. drive axle reward out of hub. install new part. do not torque hub over 90lbs. check with parts sell for spec
replaced the hub, still getting the same code
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