Check the fuel cap!! If the vacuum relief is not working it can impede the fuel flow and cause the engine to shut down or not restart after a stop. Waiting usually gives things a chance to stabalize and the engine will restsrt. When this happens again try loosening the cap and see if the engine will restart.....If it restarts immediately, REPLACE the fuel cap..Do Not leave it loose because this will cause other problems. If it is not the fuel cap the problem may be the filter, the fuel pump, or aome other fuel system malfunction.
Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Shift cable end from the transmission shift lever ball stud
If equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft.
Rear propeller shaft.
Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Starter motor.
Transfer case, if equipped.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
Remove the transmission mount nuts.
Remove the transmission crossmember.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Torque converter access plug
4L60E/4L65E removal
Flywheel to torque converter bolts
The two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
The stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine
The six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Install tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter. Pull the transmission straight back.
The transmission from the vehicle
Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
Install or connect the following:
Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
Install or connect the following:
Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
Stud and bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
Flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 46 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
Torque converter access plug.
Transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
Two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
Two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Install the transmission crossmember. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
Install or connect the following:
Starter
Transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission
If equipped with a transfer case, install the front propeller shaft.
The rear propeller shaft
The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Shift cable from the transmission shift lever ball stud
If 4WD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
If RWD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
The transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission
Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Starter motor
Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
Remove or disconnect the following:
The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission
The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission
The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine
The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission
The six flywheel to torque converter bolts
The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
The stud and the bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine
The remaining six studs and the one bolt securing the transmission to the engine
Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
4L80E/4L85E removal
Pull the transmission straight back. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.
To Install:
Install or connect the following:
Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
Install or connect the following:
Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
The stud and bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
Six flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine. Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
The flywheel to torque converter bolts.
One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
Install or connect the following:
Starter motor
Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
Install or connect the following:
The transfer case
The rear propeller shaft
The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
Try to back wash the heater core first if it doesnt work then its clogged up try to turn the heater on the front with the heater off for the back keep an eye on the temp guage if it goes up than normal then its clogged....
Fyi u have to run the engine for awhile with the heater fan on
Lots of help here. You need a good auto-electrician with a pro grade scan tool. There are soooo many modules in that vehicle and I have a vague recollection there is a box of tricks under the seat!.
https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+yukon+won%27t+start
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I'm going to assume that is on both sides of the cab? I'm going to say you have an actuator problem, if it's in fact only blowing cold in the rear, and not in the front. The actuators are prone to problems on the gm product lines. Even more with a weak battery.
Yes. Look in the Fuse Panel inside the Truck. Use a Good Maglight or LED Flashlight and Hold it Behind the Fuses to see the Blown Ones. It is usually in an AUX Outlet. Also check thr Fuse Relay Box under the Hood for a Blown Fuse using the Same Method. See if there is a Relay for this also. If so, Replace it. Let me know if you need any more Help! Please Rate my Response, I need all the Help That I can Get!
At www.reliable-store.com get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.
Is there B+ voltage on the heavy gage wire on the back of the alternator ? Possible blown fusible link. Plus the two wires in the connector go to the PCM - engine computer . One is the turn on signal ,the other is charge indicator control . Having the vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes should also be done .DTC P1637
The powertrain control module (PCM) uses the generator turn on signal circuit to control the generator. A high side driver within the PCM allows the PCM to turn the generator ON and OFF. When Generator operation is desired, the PCM sends a 10 volt signal to the voltage regulator via the generator turn on signal circuit. This causes the voltage regulator to begin controlling the generator field circuit. Once the Generator is enabled by the PCM, the voltage regulator controls generator output independently of the PCM. Under certain operating conditions, the PCM can turn Off the generator by turning Off the 10 volt signal on the generator turn on signal circuit. The PCM has fault detection circuitry which monitors the state of the generator turn on signal circuit. If the fault detection circuit senses a voltage other than what is expected, this DTC will set. The voltage regulator also contains fault detection circuitry. If the regulator detects a problem, the regulator will ground the generator turn on signal circuit, pulling the voltage low. This also causes the PCM to set the DTC.
Your best bet mite be to take it to a qualified repair shop.
Ok you might need to open and close your key switch about ten times before trying to start it. Off position the on position, not start but on then off. Ten time.
It sounds like a wheel bearing is going bad. They are easy to change. If you have a place to jack the vehicle up. Try spinning the front wheels. You should hear a scraping noise as the wheel turns.Also replace both sides at the same time,as the otherside is not far behind.
When the check engine light comes on a fault has occurred and a fault code or codes is recorded in the Powertrain control modules memory. What you need to do now is have the fault code or codes read and then perform diagnostics based on what the codes are.
Could be the custer is the problem , do you know how the gauges get their info. Do you know what class 2 serial data communications are . The culster is shorting out the data network or possibly the VSS - vehicle speed sensor . or input speed sensor . These sensors are powered by the five volt reference circuit from the PCM . Sensor's go bad internally with heat , after warm up . an bring down the network . Testing the five volt ref. circuit ,is the way to diagnose .
Speedometer
The IPC displays the vehicle speed based on the vehicle speed signal from the PCM. The PCM converts the data from the vehicle speed sensor to a 4000 pulses/mile signal. The IPC uses the vehicle speed signal circuit from the PCM in order to calculate the vehicle speed. The speedometer defaults to 0 km/h (0 mph) if a malfunction in the vehicle speed signal circuit exists.
Engine Coolant Temperature Gage
The IPC displays the engine coolant temperature as determined by the PCM. The IPC receives a class 2 message from the PCM indicating the engine coolant temperature. The engine coolant temperature gage defaults to 75°C (160°F) or below when:
• The PCM detects a malfunction in the engine coolant temperature sensor circuit.
• The IPC detects a loss of class 2 communication with the PCM.
How to check the 5v reference circuit for short to ground Cadillac