When I turn my ac on it is cold but barely blows out any air. It stays at low speed no matter what the setting says.
SOURCE: Yukon A/C, rear blows cold, front ducts a LOT warmer.
There is only one A/C system split into 2 zones. Check the blend door actuator, it may have failed in one position or something may be jamming it. Also check the control panel in the dash, My 98 yukon did the same thing, no matter what temp you selected for the front it would blow at about 70 degrees. There is a circuit board in the control panel that gets corroded and one of the circuits controls blend door operations. Have a look.
SOURCE: Air Conditioner
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Courtesy Nissan Parts part cost is $109.00
http://www.courtesyparts.com/module-asm-p-320795.html
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http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/280961
PART NUMBER INFORMATION
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The part number is: 27761-70T03 Module Assy-Pow
It is officially called an AC Blower Amplifier.
It cost me $153.32 + tax (not concerned about getting the best price since having the fan on high all the time drove my wife nuts for the two days it was acting up!)
One other suggestion... you're gonna have to take apart the glovebox door and compartment behind it (easy enough). While back there, change out the cabin filter (another Nissan item) since you will have everything apart anyway. Kill two birds with one stone. That thing (if equipped, gets really nasty).
SOURCE: 1998 Mustang - AC blows only through Defrost vents
You probably have a vacuum leak on the passenger side. its a small plastic hose some times they come unpluged from the engine. or brake.
Appears to be stuck in the defrost position and sounds like a possible vacuum leak to controls. Look on the firewall under the dashboard. Maybe you can see a vacuum diafhram with a small hose disconnecedt. Look on passenger side first.
If not, Chk to see if a vacuum hose going through the firewall from the engine compartment has come loose. good luck
SOURCE: heater only blows Very luke
Read all of these instructions before starting this job.
First test your heater core for flow by disconnecting both heater core hoses from motor and forcing air from an air compressor into one of them watching for flow from the other. If you have no flow then you may need to backflush your heater core - it is possible you have blockage in it. Your local auto parts store has a backflush kit you can buy that will have a backflush valve ( to be added to your supply heater core hose ) and an additive to put in your coolant system. The kit will not include new coolant so you will need to get that too. Install valve and connect a garden hose.Run motor specified time in the kit. Remove lower hose from your radiator and turn on the water from the hose full blast. Watch the coolant coming out from your radiator to see if any chunky stuff comes out - also watch for the color of the flow. Run water until it comes out clear, then shut off water and disconnect garden hose. Allow system to drain, reconnect radiator hose and cap flush valve. Refill coolant system, turn heat on high and run motor until it is warm. Top off coolant in radiator ( be careful - the pressure may cause coolant to spray out when you remove cap - put a rag over the cap before you remove slowly). If you do not have warm air at this point you may have a bubble in the heater core and may need to block rear wheels then raise the front of the vehicle until the radiator cap is higher than the heater core. Restart vehicle and turn heater on high . Check coolant level in radiator and top off, then cap radiator and shut off motor. Lower vehicle and start again with heater on high. If you still have no heat then your heater core may be plugged. To check, remove both heater hoses from motor and force air from an air compressor into one of the hoses, watching for flow from the other hose - if no flow then core is plugged and needs to be replaced, but if you have flow then you still have an air bubble in the system and need to purge using the above steps until you have heat.
Hope this helps and please rate my solution - good luck!!
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