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hydralic lifters is not adjustable.only time to adjust valve lash when you remove rocker arms or replace valve lifters or replaced heads.hydralic lifters is not adjustable.only time to adjust valve lash when you remove rocker arms or replace valve lifters or replaced heads.
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Sorry late had to find my chevrolet V8 valve rocker arm adjustment diagram. first get engine in number 1 firing position, adjust exhaust valves 1 - 3 - 4 - 8 adjust intake valves 1 - 2 - 5 -7 now turn engine another complete turn to number 6 firing position, adjust exhaust valves 2 - 5 - 6 - 7 adjust intake valves 3 - 4 - 6 - 8 now when you adjust the rocker arm bolt you need to turn adjustung nut until all lash is removed and the push rod not capable of being rotated then turn adjusting nut additional 3/4 - 1 turn center the lifter plunger.
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what type of engine are you working on. On GM small blocks you will need to turn the crank to zero on the timing tab, which will bring #1 piston to the top ( you can remove #1 plug and verify #1 piston is at the top) Then you will need to turn the rocker arm nut on the intake valves until the push rod is just finger tight, (turn the push rod as you are tightening the nut) and then turn it 3/4 of a turn. once you have done the intake valves you need to rotate the crank 180 degrees to bring up the exhaust valves and do the same procedure to them. If it is the valve lash it should start. Hope this helps, this will probably work on most cars.
You are correct there is no lash adjustment, just the torque. However you do have to rotate the crankshaft balancer to position the crankshaft balancer alignment mark 57-63 degrees clockwise or counterclockwise from the engine front cover alignment tab. No further adjustment is required. By the way I have 22 Ft. Lbs for that torque (probably doesn't matter much) I hope this helps.
You don't. They are non-adjustable hydraulic lifters. GM's spec for torque on the rocker arm nuts: Tighten the valve rocker arm ball studs to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).
Once the valve rocker arm nuts are installed and properly torqued, no
additional valve lash adjustment is required.
For the 4.3L engines which are equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, tighten the rocker arm adjusting nuts against the stop shoulders to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) on 1994-96 models and 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) on 1997-99 models. No further adjustment is necessary, or possible.
For most 4.3L engines which are not equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs and positive stop shoulders, properly adjust the valve lash. For details on valve lash adjustment, please refer to the procedure in Routine Maintenance . (see below)
4.3L Engine
The 4.3L engines may be equipped with either of 2 rocker arm retaining systems. If your engine utilizes screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, no valve lash adjustment is necessary or possible. If however, you engine utilizes the pressed-in rocker arm studs, use the following procedure to tighten the rocker arm nuts and properly center the pushrod on the hydraulic lifter:
To prepare the engine for valve adjustment, rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the damper pulley aligns with the 0? mark on the timing plate and the No. 1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. You will know when the No. 1 piston is on it's compression stroke because both the intake and exhaust valves will remain closed as the crankshaft damper mark approaches the timing scale.
Another method to tell when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke is by removing the spark plug and placing your thumb over the hole, you will feel the air being forced out of the spark plug hole. Stop turning the crankshaft when the TDC timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is directly aligned with the timing mark pointer or the zero mark on the scale.
The valve arrangement is as follows:
With the engine on the compression stroke, adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 1, 5 & 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 1, 2 & 3 by performing the following procedures:
Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turns.
Rotate the crankshaft one complete revolution and align the mark on the damper pulley with the 0? mark on the timing plate; the engine is now positioned on the No. 4 firing position. This time the No. 4 cylinder valves remain closed as the timing mark approaches the scale. Adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 & 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 & 6, by performing the following procedures:
Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turn.
VALVE ADJUSTMENTS
All gasoline and diesel engines in this guide use hydraulic valve lifters, which require no periodic maintenance or adjustment. However, in the event of cylinder head removal or any operation that requires disturbing or removing the rocker arms, the rocker arms must be adjusted in order to position the pushrods to allow the hydraulic lifters to maintain zero lash.
Refer to the valve lash adjustment procedure under Rocker Arms, earlier in this Section.
I believe you may have your terminology confused here. If I were to guess, you might be trying to adjust your valves to get rid of the valve lash/noisey lifters. If this is the case, you would bump your starter to bring number 1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. With the engine in this position, you would then adjust various intake and exhaust valves using the procedure outlined in your service manual. I would hesitate to outline a step by step procedure here, as I fear you might damage your engine. Its not rocket science, but it sounds like you might need someone around with some actual experience. Once you actually watch someone do it, you'll be way farther down the road in terms of a good running engine as apposed to one that would be better suited to the scrap heap.....Let us know how it goes
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